62 Ran out of oil... Questions (1 Viewer)

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May 29, 2008
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Boulder County Colorado
 
 
Just bought a 62 in Great shape body and interior :)

P.O. sold it non-running because it lost oil and seized.
Has 197000 on the clock. Crankshaft turns a bit with starter engaged.
Can I drop the pan and replace all main and rod bearings without pulling the engine? Assuming the best... that the crank is only minimally scored and can be dressed out.

Would like to get him running and assess the top end compression rings/valves.

I have read that pulling the 3FE with A440 is a bear!

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Im new to the 62's

My 81 FJ40 build is complete... complete rebuild... lots of help from MUD members! Awsome rig!
 

Cruiserdrew

On the way there
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Just bought a 62 in Great shape body and interior :)

P.O. sold it non-running because it lost oil and seized.
Has 197000 on the clock. Crankshaft turns a bit with starter engaged.
Can I drop the pan and replace all main and rod bearings without pulling the engine? Assuming the best... that the crank is only minimally scored and can be dressed out.

Would like to get him running and assess the top end compression rings/valves.

I have read that pulling the 3FE with A440 is a bear!

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Im new to the 62's

My 81 FJ40 build is complete... complete rebuild... lots of help from MUD members! Awsome rig!

I would look around for a used motor that runs. This one will be a crap shoot and if it got all the way to seizing, it sounds like it's done. Swapping the complete motor should not be too hard.

Did it loose oil because it blew the galley plug?
 

3_puppies

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4thwheel;6513501 I have read that pulling the 3FE with A440 is a bear! [/QUOTE said:
it isn't that much harder than pulling out a late model 2F. leave the trans in place, just pull the engine.

you could fill it with oil and see if it'll start, then you'll hear how bad it sounds.

X2 on the finding another engine, that's what I did in mine a few years ago. another option is to find a late 2F, flat top pistons and make a 2FE.
 
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If the rig is in otherwise great shape, you might consider pulling the engine and overhauling it. If you pull it and remove all the accessories and take it to the machine shop yourself, it really isn't that expensive.
 
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Not completly siezed

Just thinking I could replace the rod and main bearings with the pan dropped and start her up... then I could evaluate the rest.

Is it possible to replace the main bearings with the engine installed? Do you have to disconnect the Tranny to get to the #4 bearing cap?

Most likely, I will either rebuild the existing or swap the short block. Just want to get it running for now... even if it runs poorly... then I can move it in-out of the garage and steam clean the oil disaster!!

It did not lose oil through the oil galley plug.... Oil cooler line leaked for quite some time, coating everything undercarrage with dirt and oil.... then It gave way, and pumped all but the last qt. out and the P.O. pulled over and shut it off. It started again and they turned it around to get it on the tow truck...
FJ62.jpg
FJ62 2.jpg
FJ62 3.jpg
 
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Ooo. Nice looking rig. I don't know of anyone replacing the crank bearings with the engine in place. Drop the pan and see. I ran all the coolant out of an old Ford straight 6 in the middle of the night and it seized. Came back the next day, added water and drove it home. It never quite ran the same afterward however.
 
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I've replaced mains by removing main bearing caps and pushing old bearings out using the ones in the caps. not too hard to do Not a fix but will let you test engine and get a look at the crank while you are at it. But if oil pressured dropped much cam and it's bearings are maybe toast sorry to say. RockAuto.com has bearings cheap enough if u want to test this way before you do your rebuild. send me message I'll give u a 5% discount code for parts
 
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More specific please...

Thanks for all the good comments! Its a keeper 4 shure....

All original 100%, no mods jack and tool kit untouched.... Everything works... except the engine :rolleyes:

Anyone know for sure if 3FE main bearings cam be replaced under the car???? Does the A440f make it impossible to get to the #4 Cap?
If so I rather pull the set out than go through the extra "test" work..

SEND MONEY $$$$$
 
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It is not a bad job to pull this engine. I would leave the tranny there. If it seized at all, the chances of the crank not needing machine work are practically nil. The bearings *can* be replaced without pulling the crank.... But as I am sitting here it seems like there is some conflict with removing thew rear main bearing cap with the tranny attached. It has been a while since I considered doing this, but I know I ran into some snag that kept it from being done the one time I had reason to look at it.

Pull the engine and get the crank turned, put new bearings in it, toss in new rings and a valve job while you are there and have a very happy engine. You will like the end result better than putting a used engine in which will not be as fresh as this would be after this work.


Mark...
 
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I don't know of anyone replacing the crank bearings with the engine in place. Drop the pan and see.
I did it on a 2F, but for some reason I think I had the trans out. But I honestly cant remember.

It is not a bad job to pull this engine. I would leave the tranny there. If it seized at all, the chances of the crank not needing machine work are practically nil. The bearings *can* be replaced without pulling the crank.... But as I am sitting here it seems like there is some conflict with removing thew rear main bearing cap with the tranny attached. It has been a while since I considered doing this, but I know I ran into some snag that kept it from being done the one time I had reason to look at it.
yea I wanna say tranny gets in the way but Im not 100% sure as its been a few years back. I did a 2F this way once and they are more less identical less the bock height and stroke. I know on the 2F I had the tranny out (im pretty sure) but I was doing a clutch so that was why. or maybe I had to pull it and found it needed a clutch?

Just pull the engine it is a lot easier than ya think.

Pull the engine and get the crank turned, put new bearings in it, toss in new rings and a valve job while you are there and have a very happy engine. You will like the end result better than putting a used engine in which will not be as fresh as this would be after this work.


Mark...
this.
 
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I'm almost positive you cannot remove the #4 bearing cap with the trans adapter on the engine. I have one on a stand at work. I'll look today and give a definative answer.
 
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I am totally positive that you can not pull the rear main cap while under the truck,
I just tried to do this on my 88 and no dice.
Pull the motor if you plan to do anything with the crank it is the only way it will work.

And for posterity, The connecting rod bearings are no big deal under the truck, The rear main is a no go as you can not access the rear most bolts on the cap with the trans still attached.
Dave
 
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I am totally positive that you can not pull the rear main cap while under the truck,
I just tried to do this on my 88 and no dice.
Pull the motor if you plan to do anything with the crank it is the only way it will work.

And for posterity, The connecting rod bearings are no big deal under the truck, The rear main is a no go as you can not access the rear most bolts on the cap with the trans still attached.
Dave
I just confirmed this. The #4 cap will not come off in the vehicle unless you have the tranny out. Just pull the engine.
 
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Thanks

Thank for the replies... I will go ahead and yank it out!

NEXT

Master rebuild kit
RV cam and new lifters... suggestions? MAF?
Shave head
Bore .020
Valve job
Machine the crank
Re-size connecting rods
Balance the assy.
Timing set...
OEM head gasket/ pan gasket and rear main seal.

What else??
The P.O said the A440F had been serviced (flushed) every summer for the last ten yrs. (have some reciepts) and said all is well with it.
I am planning on re-installing it as-is... I know its a gamble. Is there anyting I can do to verify its condition without a running engine?
 
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UPDATE

OK...
Pulled the plugs, poured in 5qts of 30SAE oil and it cranked over easily...
Just 4 fun I did a compression test...

60 days since the P.O. lost oil

#1 115
#2 125
#3 125
#4 135
#5 125
#6 125

This was obiously done cold at whatever RPM the starter could muster.
After adding OIL I got NO oil pressure reading on the dash cluster gauge.
Broken pump?
Back to the drawing board!!
I know it needs a rebuild but I would love to get it limping so I could assess the leak and Auto Tranny.
What are the Compression numbers in th FSM for the 3FE??
OK back to tinkering....
 

Cruiserdrew

On the way there
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OK...
Pulled the plugs, poured in 5qts of 30SAE oil and it cranked over easily...
J

You know it takes 8 quarts, right?

You probably have no pressure because the bearings are shot, or you don't yet have enough oil, or the distributor is not seated and so is not driving the oil pump. Seriously, doubt the pump itself is bad.

Personally, I think you are wasting time and energy on this motor.
 

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