- Nov 15, 2017
- Thread starter
That makes sense. That is pretty much what I have done. I removed the dizzy and looked it over. Bench tested it to make sure I was receiving good spark and gap was what the manual requested. Then I reseated the dizzy and like you said made sure it was pointing towards cylinder 1 spark plug which on mine would be nearly straight towards the block. I did not try 180 deg different from what I was though!! When I had the plugs out I put a popsicle stick in there to feel what I assumed was the top of the piston telling myself that meant I was at compression stroke for that cylinder. (#1)The BB is 7 degrees above top dead center. It should run there and at the line, but probably at the BB it'll probably run better. If it were me, I'd pull all the plugs and the dizzy, move the engine by hand to the top dead center line, reinstall the dizzy making sure it is seated well (sounds like you've been doing that), making wherever the rotor is pointing toward be the wire leading to number 1 cylinder and reinstall the plugs. As @4Cruisers said, the order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Lay out all the wires in order by length on the floor and judge which is needed as you go around the distributor cap to fit to the plugs. If the engine does not fire in the rotational space provided by the dizzy hold down bolt, then see if you're 180 degrees out. Make what was formerly number 1 cylinder now be the wire to number 6 and go around moving all the wires and try and restart. This procedure should get you going.
When at TDC - the pointer on the bell housing aligns with the line on the flywheel - either cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke or cylinder #6. The flywheel makes two full rotations for both #1 and #6 to reach their compression strokes, so that's why it's possible for one or the other to be on that stroke when at TDC. You have to make sure when at TDC that cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke. Otherwise, if #6 is on it's compression stroke at TDC and you have the dizzy rotor pointing to the number #1 plug wire you'll have a bit of problem to say the least. Best way for myself to verify which cylinder is on it's compression stroke - remember either cylinder #1 or #6 can be on it's compression stroke when at TDC - is to pull the valve cover and check the rockers. Whichever cylinder is on it's compression stroke at TDC will have both of its valves closed so both rockers will have a little bit of wiggle over the lifter rods, the other cylinder won't have movement in both cuz one of the valves is open which requires downward pressure from that rocker onto the lifter rod. Just focus on getting this arrangement all set first - TDC, #1 on compression stroke, and dizzy rotor pointing to #1 plug wire - then when you get it running you can advance the dizzy to get the timing set on the ball (as mentioned 7-deg BTDC) or whatever timing you want using your timing light attached to cylinder #1 plug wire.
That all makes sense. I believe that is what I’m doing. But I am going to go step by step and do that again hopefully asap. Like I just mentioned I put a popsicle stick in the plug terminal to feel if cylinder one was raised. Also had my father look in with a light while I turned the motor manually. Maybe that’s not accurate though!!?
One thing I did notice at the end of last night. I didn’t feel like I was getting very much suction at the carb when I took the filter off and held my hand over the intake.
Is there a chance the valves are stuck??
Also that brought me to wonder. Is there anything that can be sprays into the cylinders to help clean it in anyway??
I also ordered one of those endoscopes to take a peek inside. LOL