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The BB is 7 degrees above top dead center. It should run there and at the line, but probably at the BB it'll probably run better. If it were me, I'd pull all the plugs and the dizzy, move the engine by hand to the top dead center line, reinstall the dizzy making sure it is seated well (sounds like you've been doing that), making wherever the rotor is pointing toward be the wire leading to number 1 cylinder and reinstall the plugs. As @4Cruisers said, the order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Lay out all the wires in order by length on the floor and judge which is needed as you go around the distributor cap to fit to the plugs. If the engine does not fire in the rotational space provided by the dizzy hold down bolt, then see if you're 180 degrees out. Make what was formerly number 1 cylinder now be the wire to number 6 and go around moving all the wires and try and restart. This procedure should get you going.
That makes sense. That is pretty much what I have done. I removed the dizzy and looked it over. Bench tested it to make sure I was receiving good spark and gap was what the manual requested. Then I reseated the dizzy and like you said made sure it was pointing towards cylinder 1 spark plug which on mine would be nearly straight towards the block. I did not try 180 deg different from what I was though!! When I had the plugs out I put a popsicle stick in there to feel what I assumed was the top of the piston telling myself that meant I was at compression stroke for that cylinder. (#1)

When at TDC - the pointer on the bell housing aligns with the line on the flywheel - either cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke or cylinder #6. The flywheel makes two full rotations for both #1 and #6 to reach their compression strokes, so that's why it's possible for one or the other to be on that stroke when at TDC. You have to make sure when at TDC that cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke. Otherwise, if #6 is on it's compression stroke at TDC and you have the dizzy rotor pointing to the number #1 plug wire you'll have a bit of problem to say the least. Best way for myself to verify which cylinder is on it's compression stroke - remember either cylinder #1 or #6 can be on it's compression stroke when at TDC - is to pull the valve cover and check the rockers. Whichever cylinder is on it's compression stroke at TDC will have both of its valves closed so both rockers will have a little bit of wiggle over the lifter rods, the other cylinder won't have movement in both cuz one of the valves is open which requires downward pressure from that rocker onto the lifter rod. Just focus on getting this arrangement all set first - TDC, #1 on compression stroke, and dizzy rotor pointing to #1 plug wire - then when you get it running you can advance the dizzy to get the timing set on the ball (as mentioned 7-deg BTDC) or whatever timing you want using your timing light attached to cylinder #1 plug wire.

That all makes sense. I believe that is what I’m doing. But I am going to go step by step and do that again hopefully asap. Like I just mentioned I put a popsicle stick in the plug terminal to feel if cylinder one was raised. Also had my father look in with a light while I turned the motor manually. Maybe that’s not accurate though!!?
One thing I did notice at the end of last night. I didn’t feel like I was getting very much suction at the carb when I took the filter off and held my hand over the intake.
Is there a chance the valves are stuck??
Also that brought me to wonder. Is there anything that can be sprays into the cylinders to help clean it in anyway??
I also ordered one of those endoscopes to take a peek inside. LOL
 

middlecalf

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Leak down test will help identify valve issues. Compression test may point to cylinder issue. Endoscope will help identify if something is seriously bad.
 
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Thanks everyone for the advice!!!
Sure enough the distributor was 180 off where it should have been. I thought for sure I was on a compression stroke when I did all this before. But I received a small endoscope in the mail and tonight verified what valve was open and sure enough I was on exhaust. I can’t thank everyone enough for their input. I’m sure there is a few more adjustments I will be making but it’s not running too bad at this point. I will be testing compression. Valve gap. And going through the carb I hope very soon.
Restored starter works great and rebuilt pump seems to be pumping.
One step at a time!!! 👍🏼
Here is a short video of the truck running.

 
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Looking good Dan! I hope to see that rig on the road soon, maybe a Cruiser rendezvous up at Blacksmith one evening.
 
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Today I checked the valve clearance for each valve.
What I did :
Took the cover off and all the spark plugs out. Then Manually turned the motor checking each valve per cylinder once that cylinder was at TDC.
Per my manual it stated intake needing to be .25 mm and exhaust .35 mm.
Mine were pretty loose so I adjusted until it was just fitting the proper gauge.
After doing this I put it all back together and got out the new tachometer.
I started the truck and found I was idling around 1100 rpm.
After adjusting slowly to get me down closer to 500 I noticed the exhaust was a lot smokier than before.
Could this be due to my valve adjustments??
The truck runs around 530 rpm but sounds a little better around 600.
Timing is at 7deg BTDC but the smoke has me unsure.
When I hit the throttle it responds fine. But It produces more smoke!!!
I know I should check compression and vacuum but I’m confused if me changing the valve clearance is what caused this smoke all the sudden???
I think my first step needs to be checking compression maybe??

Also what is ideal for idle rpm??
I’ve read 500 is low and to run it higher for better oil pressure.

This thread is turning more into a support line then a build process 😂😂
 
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Adjusting your valves shouldn't make it smoke.

Setting everything to "spec" on an engine that's old and high mileage doesn't always make it run better.

I'd set valves to spec but sometimes it might run better with a little more ignition timing and adjust the carburetor to where it sounds best.

If you have a vacuum gauge you can adjust timing and carburetor for the highest vacuum and try it out. Tweak it a little at a time if necessary until it sounds and runs best.

If it smokes because it's burning oil, you're not going to adjust that away. If it's set too rich, you probably can.

If setting idle to spec is too low, turn it up to where you think it runs the best. Within reason of course.
 
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Did you do a dull lean drop method carb adjustment, or just dial the idle down a little?
 
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If you have a vacuum gauge you can adjust timing and carburetor for the highest vacuum and try it out. Tweak it a little at a time if necessary until it sounds and runs best.
This is what I was typing next.


Tune that engine to the highest vacuum and iron the kinks out from there.
 
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I'm just giving general old car advice. I have no Land Cruiser experience so I would give more attention to these guys that actually have a Land Cruiser.
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2017
Messages
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Adjusting your valves shouldn't make it smoke.

Setting everything to "spec" on an engine that's old and high mileage doesn't always make it run better.

I'd set valves to spec but sometimes it might run better with a little more ignition timing and adjust the carburetor to where it sounds best.

If you have a vacuum gauge you can adjust timing and carburetor for the highest vacuum and try it out. Tweak it a little at a time if necessary until it sounds and runs best.

If it smokes because it's burning oil, you're not going to adjust that away. If it's set too rich, you probably can.

If setting idle to spec is too low, turn it up to where you think it runs the best. Within reason of course.
Ya that’s kind of what I had in mind. I think I will play with it at other settings beside spec like you said and see how it sits.

Did you do a dull lean drop method carb adjustment, or just dial the idle down a little?
Just lowered idle and adjusted timing. Then played with the one set screw on the carb a bit and got it to its best. But still doesn’t sound great!!
I agree I need to check the vacuum and compression. Those are next on my list.
I would be less concerned but the smoke was surprising.
 
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Your carb is going to be slightly different but the concept is the same. The FSM has some good details here also.



 

middlecalf

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What color smoke?

An easier method for valve adjustment (except use 25mm on intake like you did).
282DC14D-F1DD-4F84-8064-0D0AF9424089.jpeg
 
Joined
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What color smoke?

An easier method for valve adjustment (except use 25mm on intake like you did).
View attachment 3276437
It’s white ! And gets worse as I hit the accelerator. Which I believe means coolant possibly getting into my cylinder correct!!? It definitely had a nasty burnt like stench.
I’m almost afraid that loud pop I heard while getting the distributor set properly has done some damage somewhere.
Although!!! It didn’t seem to smoke this bad after getting the distributor set right. As seen in the video I posted. So since then all I’ve done is adjust the valve clearance and then play with the carb lowering the rpm.
I’ve got a lot to look into. Just trying to find the best way to answer some of these questions without taking it all apart! Lol
 

middlecalf

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Cold temps and cold motor can put out a fair amount of moisture until it warms up. Get everything baselined like you‘re working through then run it to get it warmed up. Keep an eye on coolant level and check oil for coolant (dipstick) often. GL.
 
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Cold temps and cold motor can put out a fair amount of moisture until it warms up. Get everything baselined like you‘re working through then run it to get it warmed up. Keep an eye on coolant level and check oil for coolant (dipstick) often. GL.
Ok will do. Thank you!
 

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