It took about 2 six hour days to install the 60 series steering in my Cruiser. I wanted to say thanks for everyone that helped put up with my remedial questions and a special thanks to those that donated thier extra parts.
I followed the "Trails" article for using my stock drag link and pitman. Grainger has a great hydrolic block (found out that they are not pillow blocks-those are like a U with a bearing in the center) for 24 bucks shipped and next day drop off that saved my backside. All in all, it drive straight and true, no more sloppy steering and my pinky can steer me.
My only bummer was having to cut off my brand new ford shock tower that I just put on since I flippped my front springs. I am going to have to use round stock to mount my shocks since there is only about 1.5" of room next to the box to keep my shock at good angle.
I'll post a few pics (thing dramatic since it has been posted many time) tomorrw.
Thanks again for everyones help, especially AL (ALZ TOY) for the free ujoints. I have a few left over if anyone needs some.
I have one similiar to the steering shaft coupling found in a fj40. It is half the coupling with a ujoint and one coupling without a ujoint that can be welded to 3/4" round stock for a ne shaft.
Thanks again, Dan
Up Date: Rough sketch of installing process and parts list:
Parts list for 60 series steering (anyone sees I forgot something let me know)
For the Steering box
1. 60 series box with pitman. (you can sue your stock pitman if you cut it at the base-where attaches to steering box) and flip the ball upside down. I ran mine that way for a few days until I decided to go with a 60 series pitman. It will attach directly to your stock 40 drag link end.
2. 40 series drag link end (this will be cut and welded into 80 series tie rod).
3. 80 series tie rod and end. This will attach to the left hand tie rod end
a.Note: you can just use your stock FJ40 tie rod, but the 80 is beefier. Just weld your drag link end into the tie rod. Make sure you do some bottom welds for strength and / or sleeve the welded area.
4. ¾ solid round stock (about 3’)
5. Hydraulic block –some call it a pillow block but that is incorrect (Grainger) or TPI.com #TPS73
6.60 series center shaft (U-joint off of steering box and has the crushable/collapsible sleeve.
7.Another U-joint to attach to the end of the center shaft and the 3/4” round stock that welds to the cut steering column)
8.½ to ¾ flat stock for mounting plate
9.4 grade 8 7/16 X 20 bolts
10.25/64 tap
Rough directions:
1.position box so the draglink end is parallel to the tie rod
2.box should be as vertical as possible / pitman as flat as possible
3.clamp ½ or ¾ flat stock for mounting plate
4.Weld plate on
5.drill holes and tap through plate and frame (may do before welding plate to frame) it would be good to use longer bolts that you could go all the way through the frame and put a nut on them. I did not.
6.Use original drag link and tie rod, weld to 80 series tie rod or stock tie rod.
Rough directions for steering column:
1.at box attach u-joint and
2.Cut 40 column close to firewall with enough room go through hydraulic block attached to stock column backing plate.
3.attach u-joint to back of box and 60 series center shaft
4.Weld on an extension (with round stock) so that the next u-joint will be at a good angle to the steering column exiting the fire wall.
5.Mount u-joint to extension and original steering column
a.(you will have a u-joint coming off the box, center shaft, welded ¾ stock, u-joint existing column that was cut going through hydraulic block)
Steering pump
1.2F alternator bracket
2.2F steering pump mount
3.mini truck or 60 series steering pump with accompanied hoses
4.new belts
5.lots of write-ups on this
This is up to you but straight forward. Alternator is on the top passenger side, pump is on lower driver’s side. Hose should reach to the box if using minitruck steering hoses. I do no know the length of 60 series hoses.
I followed the "Trails" article for using my stock drag link and pitman. Grainger has a great hydrolic block (found out that they are not pillow blocks-those are like a U with a bearing in the center) for 24 bucks shipped and next day drop off that saved my backside. All in all, it drive straight and true, no more sloppy steering and my pinky can steer me.
My only bummer was having to cut off my brand new ford shock tower that I just put on since I flippped my front springs. I am going to have to use round stock to mount my shocks since there is only about 1.5" of room next to the box to keep my shock at good angle.
I'll post a few pics (thing dramatic since it has been posted many time) tomorrw.
Thanks again for everyones help, especially AL (ALZ TOY) for the free ujoints. I have a few left over if anyone needs some.
I have one similiar to the steering shaft coupling found in a fj40. It is half the coupling with a ujoint and one coupling without a ujoint that can be welded to 3/4" round stock for a ne shaft.
Thanks again, Dan
Up Date: Rough sketch of installing process and parts list:
Parts list for 60 series steering (anyone sees I forgot something let me know)
For the Steering box
1. 60 series box with pitman. (you can sue your stock pitman if you cut it at the base-where attaches to steering box) and flip the ball upside down. I ran mine that way for a few days until I decided to go with a 60 series pitman. It will attach directly to your stock 40 drag link end.
2. 40 series drag link end (this will be cut and welded into 80 series tie rod).
3. 80 series tie rod and end. This will attach to the left hand tie rod end
a.Note: you can just use your stock FJ40 tie rod, but the 80 is beefier. Just weld your drag link end into the tie rod. Make sure you do some bottom welds for strength and / or sleeve the welded area.
4. ¾ solid round stock (about 3’)
5. Hydraulic block –some call it a pillow block but that is incorrect (Grainger) or TPI.com #TPS73
6.60 series center shaft (U-joint off of steering box and has the crushable/collapsible sleeve.
7.Another U-joint to attach to the end of the center shaft and the 3/4” round stock that welds to the cut steering column)
8.½ to ¾ flat stock for mounting plate
9.4 grade 8 7/16 X 20 bolts
10.25/64 tap
Rough directions:
1.position box so the draglink end is parallel to the tie rod
2.box should be as vertical as possible / pitman as flat as possible
3.clamp ½ or ¾ flat stock for mounting plate
4.Weld plate on
5.drill holes and tap through plate and frame (may do before welding plate to frame) it would be good to use longer bolts that you could go all the way through the frame and put a nut on them. I did not.
6.Use original drag link and tie rod, weld to 80 series tie rod or stock tie rod.
Rough directions for steering column:
1.at box attach u-joint and
2.Cut 40 column close to firewall with enough room go through hydraulic block attached to stock column backing plate.
3.attach u-joint to back of box and 60 series center shaft
4.Weld on an extension (with round stock) so that the next u-joint will be at a good angle to the steering column exiting the fire wall.
5.Mount u-joint to extension and original steering column
a.(you will have a u-joint coming off the box, center shaft, welded ¾ stock, u-joint existing column that was cut going through hydraulic block)
Steering pump
1.2F alternator bracket
2.2F steering pump mount
3.mini truck or 60 series steering pump with accompanied hoses
4.new belts
5.lots of write-ups on this
This is up to you but straight forward. Alternator is on the top passenger side, pump is on lower driver’s side. Hose should reach to the box if using minitruck steering hoses. I do no know the length of 60 series hoses.
Last edited:
, and now-
, gas prices be dammed. Al
.
