I've seen people weld a bracket to the frame and attach the box to that, and I've seen people sleeve bolt holes and bolt it directly to the frame with no bracket. Is one method better than the other? I would like to tackle this tonight and do it only once so any help is much appreciated. Thanks guys.
60 Power Steering Box installation
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We sleeved the frame on mine and bolted it to the reinforced frame. Solid as a rock for the last two years.
- Thread starter
- #4
That sounds good. Did you weld the sleeves in, or just bolt the box right up?
I know of at least 4 that have a 1/2 or 3/4 inch plate welded to the frame and have holes threaded into the plate. As far as I know there have been no troubles. I double nutted mine inside the frame rail so I don't expect it to go anywhere. It is a pretty low fuss process.
On a sidebar note you may want to port the box for hydro assist before you install it to make the next upgrade easier. If you ever plan to go that route anyway.
On a sidebar note you may want to port the box for hydro assist before you install it to make the next upgrade easier. If you ever plan to go that route anyway.
I plated the inside of the frame rail with 4mm plate.. Between the plate and the outside of the frame I installed crush tubes.. I made the crush tubes from 20mm round bar, with a 12mm bore.. The inside plate was bolted into position then welded.. I would not do it any other way..
I did the plate thing. It came out nicely, I feel it will be plenty strong.
1st Picture - just tacked on
2nd picture - final configuration
Rocky
1st Picture - just tacked on
2nd picture - final configuration
Rocky
I've got Ford Shock Towers. They weren't installed in the first picture, you can kind of make them out in the second. It's right next to the rear of the steering box.
Sorry I don't have a good picture of it.
Rocky
OBTW: I had a question on the intermediate shaft.
That big knob (U-Joint) on the steering box is from an FJ-55 steering setup. It is plugged into a FJ-60 Inner Column (Slider Shaft). I followed a suggestion in PabloCruise's thread to use the collapsible shaft as a intermediate shaft. My steering column is from a FJ-55, with the splined knob at the firewall. It was a clean install without any welding in the steering linkage.
The only problem is interference with the big U-Joint and Shock Tower - I had to trim out & reinforce the back of the ford tower. I probably wouldn't have to do this, except I didn't want to cut my fender.....
Sorry I don't have a good picture of it.
Rocky
OBTW: I had a question on the intermediate shaft.
That big knob (U-Joint) on the steering box is from an FJ-55 steering setup. It is plugged into a FJ-60 Inner Column (Slider Shaft). I followed a suggestion in PabloCruise's thread to use the collapsible shaft as a intermediate shaft. My steering column is from a FJ-55, with the splined knob at the firewall. It was a clean install without any welding in the steering linkage.
The only problem is interference with the big U-Joint and Shock Tower - I had to trim out & reinforce the back of the ford tower. I probably wouldn't have to do this, except I didn't want to cut my fender.....
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My intermediate shaft is made from a collapsed 70 series intermediate shaft. I have a 55 column. The 70 intermediate shaft has a small spline at one end. I made a small to large spline uni from yokes from an 80 flexi joint and a 70 intermediate shaft. This joint goes at the firewall. The joint at the steering box is unmodified. Tidiest Toyota setup I've seen yet, no welding, but does require modification of staked uni joints.. The 70 joints are smaller than the 55 and 60 joints, so they clear Ford shock towers nicely..
- Thread starter
- #12
After crawling under there and taking a good look at where the frame meets the cross member from behind, I realized that it would be a very bad idea to install the box with no plate re-inforcement of the frame.
I made a cardboard template of the frame going into the crossmember and used it to cut the 5/16" plate. I used the box as a template for the holes and then cut them with a step bit (so much better than a regular bit). I cut 1/2" holes in the plate and 3/4" holes in the outer side of the frame. I welded some 1/2" schedule 80 pipe over the holes in the plate. Then I placed the the plate in position and used it to drill the pilot holes in the other side of the frame (it seemed like the easiest way to locate the holes in the right place. Then I used the step drill bit again to cut the 3/4" holes. I bolted the whole assembly up the with box to test for fit. when I was satisfied that everything fit right, I welded the plate to the frame with everything bolted up, just to make sure everything was positioned correctly.
It seemed like an overwhelming project at first, but once I dove in it only took about 8 hours for the whole conversion.
Thanks to everybody that gave me advice, it really helped. Next up, 60 knuckle swap.
I made a cardboard template of the frame going into the crossmember and used it to cut the 5/16" plate. I used the box as a template for the holes and then cut them with a step bit (so much better than a regular bit). I cut 1/2" holes in the plate and 3/4" holes in the outer side of the frame. I welded some 1/2" schedule 80 pipe over the holes in the plate. Then I placed the the plate in position and used it to drill the pilot holes in the other side of the frame (it seemed like the easiest way to locate the holes in the right place. Then I used the step drill bit again to cut the 3/4" holes. I bolted the whole assembly up the with box to test for fit. when I was satisfied that everything fit right, I welded the plate to the frame with everything bolted up, just to make sure everything was positioned correctly.
It seemed like an overwhelming project at first, but once I dove in it only took about 8 hours for the whole conversion.
Thanks to everybody that gave me advice, it really helped. Next up, 60 knuckle swap.
I plated ans sleeved my frame too. I used 1/4" plate on both sides of the frame. For the sleeves I used 1/2"ID sch. 40.
