- Location
- United States
Well, it's time to move on to another project.
So it's easy to find: $16,000
Edit: now $15,000, also considering trades for your rust-free stock (or close to it) 03-07 100-series.
Located in Austin, Texas
EDIT: someone pointed out it's not clear.. this is a clean Texas title, not salvage. The state just had to reissue the VIN on a special sticker so the current body matches the title/frame. /edit
Some of you may be familiar with this rig, but for those that aren't, a synopsis:
I originally bought this rig as a 280k mile burgundy 1994 FZJ80, converted to locked axles, installed a TJM 50mm lift with fox shocks and 315 KM2s, then low-speed flopped it in Colorado. Righted it and got it running, drove off the mountain under its own power. Trailered it home, bought a white 97 LX450 that had front end damage and put that body on the frame. Did complex wiring to get the 94 and 97 harnesses to talk (complicated bit is all now gone), bought new front panels, ripped off the molding and bedlined the sides, installed a slee shortbus and warn 9.5XP, built a 4x4labs rear dual swingout and installed.. and drove it all over the place. Then wanting more power and always liking an automechanical challenge, I decided to swap in a 6.2L all-aluminum L92 and 6-speed 6L80 out of a 2008 Escalade. 403hp in that application, probably less in mine considering the stock intake, but trust me.. it's plenty.
it is awesome.. but, I've done a couple big trips and living in Texas I'm looking at 900 miles minimum to get to the areas I want to be in, and frankly the lift/tires/noise is more fatiguing and less safe than it needs to be considering how I wheel when I'm that far from home.
List:
~311,780 miles
1994 FZJ80 frame and VIN
1997 LX450 locked axles, work great
1997 LX450 body, officially reissued VIN to the 94, kept the brown cloth manual seats and console of the 94
THIS IS NOT A SUPER CLEAN RIG. My philosophy is form over function. Most of the clear peeled off the hood, wiper shaft rubs on the cowl cover slightly, driver's door sags 1/4" when open, carpet isn't perfect but pretty good.. Overall it's in "decent" shape and functionally is far better than many of these at this age, but it is NOT a showpiece many people use for these engine swaps.
2008 All aluminum L92 + 6L80 from an Escalade. No DoD. Approx 130k on the engine & transmission, trans rebuilt ~10k ago (3rd gear was slipping, all new ACDelco frictions/pistons, new 3/5/R steels, reman ACDelco torque converter, everything works flawlessly), ALL gaskets/seals on the engine replaced other than head gaskets/front main seal/timing cover gasket
TJM 50mm progressive lift, fox 2.0 shocks (no leaks, 25k miles)
Slee shortbus front bumper with Warn 9.5XP winch
Built-from-kit 4x4labs rear bumper, dual swingout, spare on one, other not set up yet
IPOR skid plate/crossmember
4x4labs sliders
Lokka part-time spool, OEM 80-series locking hubs
315 KM2s on 94 wheels spraypainted flat black, approx 60% tread left, spare has a non-leaking sidewall cut, another has a very slow leak
Dakota Digital SGI-5 odometer corrector (stock 4.10 gears)
Stock LX stereo with a few burnt out bulbs/leds in the face, added waterproof Polk speakers in all doors and a small kenwood powered sub on 2nd row floorboard
Done in the last 25k:
full front axle rebuild with new OEM birfs/seals and Koyo bearings @291K, new OEM pads/rotors
rear hubs repacked
ABS/LSPV removed
HIR bulbs
Injectors cleaned/balanced by RCEngineering
Dual group 27 batteries, slee washer relocate kit
airbags removed
new koyo radiator
rear heat removed
driveshafts rebuilt/balanced with OE joints
Window regulators disassembled and rebuilt
sunroof taped shut (works/opens if you remove tape, but gasket has shrunk and overwhelms drains)
driver seat cushion replaced with OEM
additional heat/sound insulation added to floor
new sway bar bushings
Swap specific stuff:
Tuned via HPTuners, MAF is dialed in, I'm a noob so VVE is "good enough" but could probably be improved. Will give buyer all log/tune files
New ACdelco water pump, alternator, AC compressor, tensioner/idler pullies at time of swap
Uses a Mechanical fan out of a HD gm van, and clutch out of a HD pickup. It would make more power and less noise with electric, and likely have more room under the hood, but I like the simplicity and ultimate cooling ability of mechanical.
GM cruise integrated into the stock toyota stalk. on/off doesn't work, it's always on, with no light. acc/cancel/set all work as original
I used the GM BCM (body control module) for cruise/tap shifting (buttons on console)/smart charging. NOTE: BCM is crimped in, it should probably be soldered in long-term.
No shift position lights in the dash
I reworked the stock fuse block to reuse some of those positions and added a waterproof fuse block for the GM specific stuff
Exhaust uses cast hooker manifolds and the rest is built out of 304 stainless mandrel bends. All 16gauge for extra durability
F-body pan to clear the axle, no extra pressure relief (due to this engine's high-volume pump oil pressure runs high if driven hard with COLD 5w-30 oil.. it's fine once the engine is warm. haven't tried 0w-40 yet)
The following sections explain why I'm asking for less money than I think it's worth if totally finished. I honestly don't know exactly what it's worth (there aren't many gen-IV LS swaps, especially in rougher shape rigs) but my gut says if it were all done and a clean example it'd be a $20k+ rig, and realistically I have well over that in it, not including my labor.
STUFF THAT NEEDS FINISHING:
*Add reverse lights (trigger wire is present from BCM, need to add relay and wire in)
*One crank case vent goes to atmosphere through a jar and coalescing filter. This needs to be routed back to the intake in a way that won't let metal parts get sucked in. Haven't figured this part out yet.
*Fuel tank currently vented to atmosphere, and when it's warm outside frankly it stinks of fuel vapors. GM uses a pressure tank sensor and applies vacuum to the tank to check for leaks. Without pressure sensing, the charcoal canister won't vent to the intake. Knowing these tanks crack, I didn't want to apply this vacuum stress to it.
*wire up park/neutral starter interlock. Again the wire is there, just needs relay added cleanly.
*add heat shielding to fuel tank on front where DS downpipe crosses over transfer case. I think heat in this area is a large part of the vapor production.
EXTRA STUFF I'D DO IF KEEPING LONG TERM:
Add a condenser fan. Coolant temps at idle with AC on in warm conditions can get higher than I like (220F), though from reading these engines tolerate up to 230F without issue. 240F is where LS3/L92 setups aren't happy, according to the guys tracking camaros and vettes.
Add an oil cooler
I just don't have time/desire to tackle these projects and frankly it's been sitting since October while I tried to find time. I decided to lower the price and let it go.
Other things you should know:
*The muffler is a stainless dynomax and uses fiberglass insulation. I was adamant about keeping the 3.5" exhaust, and it limited my options. I'm guessing the packing is blowing out, as it's louder than when I finished the swap. It's not "too" loud, and it doesn't drone on the highway, but it is definitely not quiet.
*it is NOT OBDII compliant. It only has the front O2 sensors and cats. Since it is titled as 94 it only "needs" OBDI, and passes an emissions test with ease in Texas where I live. If you live in a different state with other emissions rules, you may have problems. Example: the "stock EGR valve" is no longer there. For some states this is a problem.
I truly built this thing as though I was going to keep it ($250 driver's seat cushion is a good example).. I always do that.
It runs and drives amazingly. Offroads very well. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country (did Texas-NM-CO-WY-MT-ID-WA-OR-UT-CO-TX in july/august, and texas to utah in june (that's where I learned the transmission was slipping)
I'm going to use subsequent posts to add more pics, an acceleration video, and refer to specific posts in the V8 swap thread about my rig. I've posted a lot there about my rig and helping others.. it is a long but good resource on these swaps.
Any questions, or even suggestions, let me know.
So it's easy to find: $16,000
Edit: now $15,000, also considering trades for your rust-free stock (or close to it) 03-07 100-series.
Located in Austin, Texas
EDIT: someone pointed out it's not clear.. this is a clean Texas title, not salvage. The state just had to reissue the VIN on a special sticker so the current body matches the title/frame. /edit
Some of you may be familiar with this rig, but for those that aren't, a synopsis:
I originally bought this rig as a 280k mile burgundy 1994 FZJ80, converted to locked axles, installed a TJM 50mm lift with fox shocks and 315 KM2s, then low-speed flopped it in Colorado. Righted it and got it running, drove off the mountain under its own power. Trailered it home, bought a white 97 LX450 that had front end damage and put that body on the frame. Did complex wiring to get the 94 and 97 harnesses to talk (complicated bit is all now gone), bought new front panels, ripped off the molding and bedlined the sides, installed a slee shortbus and warn 9.5XP, built a 4x4labs rear dual swingout and installed.. and drove it all over the place. Then wanting more power and always liking an automechanical challenge, I decided to swap in a 6.2L all-aluminum L92 and 6-speed 6L80 out of a 2008 Escalade. 403hp in that application, probably less in mine considering the stock intake, but trust me.. it's plenty.
it is awesome.. but, I've done a couple big trips and living in Texas I'm looking at 900 miles minimum to get to the areas I want to be in, and frankly the lift/tires/noise is more fatiguing and less safe than it needs to be considering how I wheel when I'm that far from home.
List:
~311,780 miles
1994 FZJ80 frame and VIN
1997 LX450 locked axles, work great
1997 LX450 body, officially reissued VIN to the 94, kept the brown cloth manual seats and console of the 94
THIS IS NOT A SUPER CLEAN RIG. My philosophy is form over function. Most of the clear peeled off the hood, wiper shaft rubs on the cowl cover slightly, driver's door sags 1/4" when open, carpet isn't perfect but pretty good.. Overall it's in "decent" shape and functionally is far better than many of these at this age, but it is NOT a showpiece many people use for these engine swaps.
2008 All aluminum L92 + 6L80 from an Escalade. No DoD. Approx 130k on the engine & transmission, trans rebuilt ~10k ago (3rd gear was slipping, all new ACDelco frictions/pistons, new 3/5/R steels, reman ACDelco torque converter, everything works flawlessly), ALL gaskets/seals on the engine replaced other than head gaskets/front main seal/timing cover gasket
TJM 50mm progressive lift, fox 2.0 shocks (no leaks, 25k miles)
Slee shortbus front bumper with Warn 9.5XP winch
Built-from-kit 4x4labs rear bumper, dual swingout, spare on one, other not set up yet
IPOR skid plate/crossmember
4x4labs sliders
Lokka part-time spool, OEM 80-series locking hubs
315 KM2s on 94 wheels spraypainted flat black, approx 60% tread left, spare has a non-leaking sidewall cut, another has a very slow leak
Dakota Digital SGI-5 odometer corrector (stock 4.10 gears)
Stock LX stereo with a few burnt out bulbs/leds in the face, added waterproof Polk speakers in all doors and a small kenwood powered sub on 2nd row floorboard
Done in the last 25k:
full front axle rebuild with new OEM birfs/seals and Koyo bearings @291K, new OEM pads/rotors
rear hubs repacked
ABS/LSPV removed
HIR bulbs
Injectors cleaned/balanced by RCEngineering
Dual group 27 batteries, slee washer relocate kit
airbags removed
new koyo radiator
rear heat removed
driveshafts rebuilt/balanced with OE joints
Window regulators disassembled and rebuilt
sunroof taped shut (works/opens if you remove tape, but gasket has shrunk and overwhelms drains)
driver seat cushion replaced with OEM
additional heat/sound insulation added to floor
new sway bar bushings
Swap specific stuff:
Tuned via HPTuners, MAF is dialed in, I'm a noob so VVE is "good enough" but could probably be improved. Will give buyer all log/tune files
New ACdelco water pump, alternator, AC compressor, tensioner/idler pullies at time of swap
Uses a Mechanical fan out of a HD gm van, and clutch out of a HD pickup. It would make more power and less noise with electric, and likely have more room under the hood, but I like the simplicity and ultimate cooling ability of mechanical.
GM cruise integrated into the stock toyota stalk. on/off doesn't work, it's always on, with no light. acc/cancel/set all work as original
I used the GM BCM (body control module) for cruise/tap shifting (buttons on console)/smart charging. NOTE: BCM is crimped in, it should probably be soldered in long-term.
No shift position lights in the dash
I reworked the stock fuse block to reuse some of those positions and added a waterproof fuse block for the GM specific stuff
Exhaust uses cast hooker manifolds and the rest is built out of 304 stainless mandrel bends. All 16gauge for extra durability
F-body pan to clear the axle, no extra pressure relief (due to this engine's high-volume pump oil pressure runs high if driven hard with COLD 5w-30 oil.. it's fine once the engine is warm. haven't tried 0w-40 yet)
The following sections explain why I'm asking for less money than I think it's worth if totally finished. I honestly don't know exactly what it's worth (there aren't many gen-IV LS swaps, especially in rougher shape rigs) but my gut says if it were all done and a clean example it'd be a $20k+ rig, and realistically I have well over that in it, not including my labor.
STUFF THAT NEEDS FINISHING:
*Add reverse lights (trigger wire is present from BCM, need to add relay and wire in)
*One crank case vent goes to atmosphere through a jar and coalescing filter. This needs to be routed back to the intake in a way that won't let metal parts get sucked in. Haven't figured this part out yet.
*Fuel tank currently vented to atmosphere, and when it's warm outside frankly it stinks of fuel vapors. GM uses a pressure tank sensor and applies vacuum to the tank to check for leaks. Without pressure sensing, the charcoal canister won't vent to the intake. Knowing these tanks crack, I didn't want to apply this vacuum stress to it.
*wire up park/neutral starter interlock. Again the wire is there, just needs relay added cleanly.
*add heat shielding to fuel tank on front where DS downpipe crosses over transfer case. I think heat in this area is a large part of the vapor production.
EXTRA STUFF I'D DO IF KEEPING LONG TERM:
Add a condenser fan. Coolant temps at idle with AC on in warm conditions can get higher than I like (220F), though from reading these engines tolerate up to 230F without issue. 240F is where LS3/L92 setups aren't happy, according to the guys tracking camaros and vettes.
Add an oil cooler
I just don't have time/desire to tackle these projects and frankly it's been sitting since October while I tried to find time. I decided to lower the price and let it go.
Other things you should know:
*The muffler is a stainless dynomax and uses fiberglass insulation. I was adamant about keeping the 3.5" exhaust, and it limited my options. I'm guessing the packing is blowing out, as it's louder than when I finished the swap. It's not "too" loud, and it doesn't drone on the highway, but it is definitely not quiet.
*it is NOT OBDII compliant. It only has the front O2 sensors and cats. Since it is titled as 94 it only "needs" OBDI, and passes an emissions test with ease in Texas where I live. If you live in a different state with other emissions rules, you may have problems. Example: the "stock EGR valve" is no longer there. For some states this is a problem.
I truly built this thing as though I was going to keep it ($250 driver's seat cushion is a good example).. I always do that.
It runs and drives amazingly. Offroads very well. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country (did Texas-NM-CO-WY-MT-ID-WA-OR-UT-CO-TX in july/august, and texas to utah in june (that's where I learned the transmission was slipping)
I'm going to use subsequent posts to add more pics, an acceleration video, and refer to specific posts in the V8 swap thread about my rig. I've posted a lot there about my rig and helping others.. it is a long but good resource on these swaps.
Any questions, or even suggestions, let me know.
Last edited:
