Builds 6.2 going into my 62!! With TT coil conversion (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Don't you just love how adapters that are out work but don't work.

Blows my mind.... had they just made the spud shaft and tube a few inches longer, the yoke would have been completely clear of the tranny pan and it would have lined up with existing cross member..

Edit. Actually they could have kept spud shaft same and just cut off less of the output shaft.

Now I get to spend $200 more for the AA "clearance yoke"
 
I've spoke with advanced adapters about these problems they really don't care. I made a spacer to put the tcase a bit further back on their 4l80e to split case adapter couldn't even bolt it up to the transmission. What i made makes it so you don't cut the output shaft of 4x4 4l80e transmission at all works but still have to massage the transmission some.

20200228_184419.jpg


Screenshot_20200228-184457.png
 
Alright, back to the xfer rebuild. That pesky pocket bearing got me thinking. There’s got to be a better way than using a dremmel. Here’s what I came up with:
$30 collet
Motion Pro Replacement Collet for Blind Bearing Removal Set (17mm) Amazon product ASIN B0045LCC4C
Paired up with a cheap pilot bearing pulled from harbor freight and some washers I had laying around.

16D4335E-0297-4DC4-8B72-2973BBFD895A.jpeg


5A4B4CC3-75C9-4D39-B741-9CF0379AB9E6.jpeg
 
Okay, ran into a little challenge. I've got the truck L92 engine which seems to have a higher intake than a typical LS3. I need to lower the engine a couple more inches to clear the hood. My Drivers side exhaust manifold flange overhangs the frame rail by about 3/8".

Looks like Hooker Headers might be the answer.

@NCFJ Looks like you used them on Warhorse. How did they fit? Good routing of down tubes? TIA!

Image shows difference in manifolds.

exhaust manifold.png
 
Seems i already mentioned this to you.
you did... i'm slow :) ...… and spent many drinks pondering the best solution. thought about shifting the motor mounts but think that will create more challenges. Didn't realize the Hooker Headers were tucked in tighter until I found that pic so seems to be the easiest solution.
 
I have the same Gen4 intake manifold as you and LS3 exhaust manifolds (“Erod manifolds” in your pic). My drivers side manifold goes over the frame like you said but it works fine.
 
This is also why i say all swaps can be deferent not all parts you buy from people will work on your swap unless it is identical to the swap they have done change one thing and it changes another then another and so on even the year of the 60 will change some things.
Tommy
 
I even have a clutch slave that was in the way and I made it work

EBC273A0-09F9-4F08-B82A-0FFC53B9AA74.jpeg
 
you did... i'm slow :) ...… and spent many drinks pondering the best solution. thought about shifting the motor mounts but think that will create more challenges. Didn't realize the Hooker Headers were tucked in tighter until I found that pic so seems to be the easiest solution.
I have used the hooker manifolds
 
When I first did my swap I used block huggers which cleared everything awesome but I don’t know if they'd work with your motor mount situation. The only reason I ditched them was issues with burning plug wires, the more expensive block huggers shouldn’t have this issue
 
I have the same Gen4 intake manifold as you and LS3 exhaust manifolds (“Erod manifolds” in your pic). My drivers side manifold goes over the frame like you said but it works fine.

This is what's paralyzed me. I've already lowered it a bit and can close the hood but not with the plastic "vortec" cover. Thought about just trimming the plastic mounts to let it sit lower and call it good but it will probably bug me forever.
 
The hooker manifolds hug tighter to the block and the collector angles back doesn't turn down onto the frame.
 
This is what's paralyzed me. I've already lowered it a bit and can close the hood but not with the plastic "vortec" cover. Thought about just trimming the plastic mounts to let it sit lower and call it good but it will probably bug me forever.
It will bug you... and i don't think @cruisermatt has the plastic cover on his swap??
 
This is what's paralyzed me. I've already lowered it a bit and can close the hood but not with the plastic "vortec" cover. Thought about just trimming the plastic mounts to let it sit lower and call it good but it will probably bug me forever.

You can lose the post mounts in the cover (only need the rear friction mount to keep it in place) and trim around the throttle body to get it to sit lower.

ADC0D81C-5BF3-4597-987D-1137D25C1627.jpeg


18BD2DDC-87A9-497F-ADE5-E11C7C4B4FA2.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom