Hilux 550hp 2JZ 1978 Hilux Build

Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
Chill weekend of some basic wrenching. Started off installing the shifter, so rolled the chassis out. If the body is ever destroyed I'm turning it into a Hilux-cart
:D


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The shifter involved pulling the tail housing off the transmission.

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Then cutting the shaft for the shifter in half and installing these machined parts.

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This allows the shifter to come straight down through the access port. The detent pin relocation bracket on the right didn't really line up with anything so I put it on the mill, made the detent stick out (engage) further and had to slot the ears to scoot it over more. After installing and reinstalling like four times and having my wife spin the engine to test that I could actually shift into gears, it was done!

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The only manual I've owned is the FJ, and if has like a foot of motion in a three foot long shifter and is nice and smooth. This thing seems really tight by comparison and is REALLY short. Like there's literally an inch of motion between 1st and 5th. I think I remember reading that it shortened the shifter throw, I don't know how a stock 350z is since I never received the stock shifter, and this is the only front relocation kit I found, but holy s*** it's gonna take some getting used to. I can't even tell where reverse is either, it's someplace to the right of 6th I know and I've gotten it to engage but sitting there I can't figure out how the hell to consistently get into reverse. I mean 6th is like 1/2" to the right of 3rd, so reverse must be like 1/8" further right? It's f***ing weird, Im hoping with the engine running and stuff spinning everything will shift nicely. I might have to open it up and clearance the housing or that machined canoe thing to make sure I'm getting enough lateral motion but I have no idea hahaha

Anyways! I pieced the fuel system together, as always there was stuff I ordered wrong or still needed. Somehow I ordered all ORB-8 male fittings for the cell even though it needs AN-8 females, no idea how I totally f***ed that up.

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I guess I didn't take any photos but I ran the cooling lines. I had bought 2x 10ft lengths of AN20 line and that's literally the exact length of the drivers side and has maybe 4" to spare on the passenger side
:D
it's so tight to the point I bought some different end fittings, and another weld on bung to try and adjust the water outlet on the drivers side of the block to point it more backwards to gain a few inches. Each of those lines was $250 so I'm going to the effort to make the 10ft length work since buying another longer line and then shortening it to 10ft 2in will cost a metric assload hahaha

Moving on, I started setting up the brakes and clutch pedal. I first made this bracket to hold all the reservoirs and stuff.

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I ended up not mounting the brake reservoir there since the hood hits it plus it's kissing the brake booster. I actually still haven't figured out a nice place to put it, since keeping it slightly higher than the brake booster is a pain. Some people machine custom mini resis that replace that little plastic housing on the booster, maybe do that? Or maybe that little plastic housing holds enough and I can skip the remote reservoir? There's also a Tesla Model S reservoir that fits but is like $100 on eBay and would direct mount to the booster.

Speaking of which, I found the plugs in a kit in the US for the booster so ordered that. This is a Bosch ibooster gen 2 off of a Honda Accord and all it needs is 12V to give boost, no vacuum or anything. I drilled out the firewall for the studs and it fit right up! Very excited about this, the Hilux will have the most modern brakes of anything I own! Maybe will upgrade the FJs booster to this too.

The silver reservoir is for the clutch. And then there's the fuel regulator too.

Next I pulled the intake off to replace the spark plugs and ended up deleting every vacuum line I could, pulling the intake apart completely and removing this weird ass valve and then scrubbing it and trying to clean it up.

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Waiting on the spark plugs now and a PCV. I also received a serpentine tensioner which was missing from the engine, and bought a replacement pulley for it since I had to change the belt routing since I'm not running AC or PS. I installed that today so the serpentine is now on. Also ordered some vacuum line plugs so just need to cap everything off and put spark plugs in and the engine can be wired up. I still need to figure out the exhaust too, I chopped the stock one up a bit and cut the cats out but will need a bit more massaging to stuff the exhaust manifolds in.

Let's see.... I had to modify the brake and clutch pedals, for now keeping all the stock hardware. I had to install a threaded spacer for the clutch pedal since the wilwood master is a lot shorter than the stock one I guess. I also cut the clutch pedal up and pushed it 6" to the left. For some reason the stock clutch pedal was like below the steering wheel? Really weird. The brake pedal was in a good spot but I had to install a little extension piece to line up with the brake booster. The booster doesn't have a threaded rod so couldn't install a coupler to extend it so just welded a blob on the end to extend it.

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I have an order from summit showing up tomorrow for the fuel, clutch, and brake fittings I'm missing. Also pulled measurements for the driveshaft so hopefully get that on order locally tomorrow. Ordered some 8deg axle shims to set the rear caster for the driveshaft. Huge order of Deutsch connectors and wiring and fuse block stuff--i think I'll rewire the entire truck at the end of the day. And a bunch of other random s*** on order. I have high hopes this is the last set of orders to get the truck driving, I know I need some more stuff like a throttle cable so probably one order left to really "finalize" it for the first drive. Getting super close! A lot of this is just tedious stuff of unbolting and fitting and measuring over and over, but as of today it's almost entirely plumbing left (and then Jerry rig some wiring).

Lots of talking in this post, not a lot of pictures or cool stuff, but that means we're getting close!
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
Big post! I've still been working on the Hilux everyday since the last post, but getting into little details and wiring and plumbing so not much stands out day to day.

I had been hoping to have the engine fire up last weekend, and long story short all IS300 have immobilizers so the engine wasn't gonna fire up. I ended up sending the ECU off to a place called Quantum Auto in California and they can remove the immobilizer and do some other tweaks to the ECU. I should be getting it back next week. Other points to note was one coilpack and one spark plug wire were totally dead too, so that didn't help with the troubleshooting. Additionally, the compression for 1-6 is 150, 140, 130, 90, 70, 150. So cylinder 5 is pretty fried, as is 4. I am going on the assumption the engine will run, since I don't want to tear into it right now and I'll be rebuilding it eventually anyways.

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This shows what an entire weekend resulted in. Less than two handfuls of wires going to hot or ground is all that's needed to run the ECU assuming the immobilizer doesn't kill it. I am currently wiring up the truck and all of this will look much nicer, don't worry!

Other things I've done: I ended up needing to buy a yoke and a different flange for the driveshaft. I dropped the 1350 yoke and the 1350 trans output off at a place last week so should be getting a driveshaft soon hopefully. The diff is angled down pretty bad relative to the transmission since the tranny is laid back quite a bit, so I ended up buying some 8deg axle shims and will be installing those to lift the pinion.

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I added a coolant reservoir, I don't think I mentioned it before but I also modified the cooling system inlet and cut off the previous AN bung and welded a new setup on that makes the cooling lines go in a nicer direction. The cooling system is fully plumbed and currently filled up.

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Because it's a rear mounted radiator it makes bleeding a bit difficult. To do this I have this pretty ghetto T fitting with a schrader valve coming off the head. The two ports I connected normally go to the heater core, though I don't entirely trust the heater core nor do I need heat over the summer so I just tied the two ports together. This gives a high point on the engine to bleed air from easily. I will eventually do something sexier, but it'll work for now.

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Let's see... the fueling system is also fully plumbed and functional and running (had to do that to try and get the engine to run). The A1000 pump even in the tank is wickedly loud! It pumps through an AN10 line to a fuel filter on the frame rail, then to a regulator which has a 6AN return line and then a 6AN outlet that runs straight to the fuel rail (the 2JZ is nominally a returnless system). I put the fuel filter right behind the cab so it's easy to access.

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One of the big issues I've been thinking about is the brake fluid reservoir, which the one from the Accord sits too high to really fit anywhere and still have the outlet be above the master inlet. To fix this I machined a new inlet, and decided that the clutch reservoir would double as the brake reservoir.

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The mill was being a bitch and it's been awhile since I've programmed the CNC so some stuff got a little f***ed but it ended up alright and seems to work fine. Below is the one I made, and on the right is the stock mini reservoir that the main reservoir feeds. Using the stock mini reservoir would result in needing a main reservoir a good 2" higher than what I made! Luckily the little sealing nipples had a stepped rubber boot, so even though I f***ed up the top stepped portion the base part I could still use. Additionally there's a roll pin that holds the part down, so I clamped it lightly on the truck and installed the roll pin so the top of the rubber boot is doubling as an o-ring where as the OEM part just kind of sat on top.

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I then machined and welded a new bung onto the clutch reservoir.

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And all plumbed up!

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Quick sprint through some remaining items since I have places to be. Yesterday I tried to bleed the brakes but the flares I made seemed to universally not work so need to figure that out. Today I test fit a seat out of the Can Am and I think I'll run some PRP GT3s since they have a relatively low side bolster but are super comfy and still have good containment if I go to a track. They are TIGHT in the truck, but I think any seat will be that way, the Hilux is tiny.

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I also started running wires. For the time being I'm ignoring all the lights, so have run the fuel pump, the sender, and the fan wiring. Everything is using automotive grade wiring and looms and have Delphi connectors at the major components. Additionally I bought an Optima and plan to just mount that on top of the passenger side frame rail since it doesn't really fit in the engine bay, plus the stock mounting area (that's too small) is pretty close to where the turbo will be. Once the bed sides are installed the battery will be pretty hidden, plus I'll tack weld the box shut.

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And that wraps up most of the key points I think! Right now the biggest issue is the brake lines not sealing so I need to buy some parts to try and correct that, otherwise I'm hopeful that next week will be the first drive!

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Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
IT RUNS!!!

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I will post more later but I am so excited! Spent the last two days wiring and just need to run the main power wires now (so substituting some jumper cables in
:D
) but I got the ECU back today and it would start but due after a few seconds. I gave up for a bit and was researching and read some post that a guy had his car not run since some wires were shorting in the MAF sensor and I was throwing a MAF code, so I ran out to the shop in my underwear and unplugged the MAF and TPS and igniter and replugged everything in and somehow that fixed the issue and now it starts and runs!!! And everything is run through the Hilux stock key cylinder! I'll post more pictures as I wrap up the wiring, but if I get a driveshaft this week it's going for a spin for the first time in a long time
:D
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
Little update. I got the driveshaft yesterday!

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I also installed the axle shims.

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And I'm pretty sure I overshot the pinion angle by double hahahaha. 8deg shim and it seems to be 4deg over, I'm not sure how that happened, but on the plus side 4deg is a lot less aggressive. I need to verify the angle by pulling the shaft, but it's definitely way off. I was also debating "lowering" the rear but the leaf pack only has two, so going to a single leaf seems wrong so I'm going to hold off on that a bit lol.

The fuse/relay box is mostly done and wired into the ecu, I'm not really sure what I'm doing so EVERYTHING has fuses. For example, there is a fuse from the ignition key to the starter relay, then another fuse between the starter relay and the ECU (which tells the actual starter to engage). It seems kind of redundant... But it seems like the signal wire has 12V and the output will have 12V so they both need to be fused. I also have big stuff going through relays. There is a large terminal that is always 12V, and then an ignition terminal that feeds everything else. But there's like feet and feet of wires under the fuse box just going around to the fuse box. I have like 5 sexy little plugs and wire bundles and then 57ft of wiring connecting fuses and relays and s***, I don't know how one can possibly make it look "good", so I think I'm going to just make a big box and the fuse box will sit on the lid essentially and the feets of wire will just kind of dangle into it. And it's not like stuff is overly long, but each fuse is two wires, each relay is four wires, even if each dangling wire is like 1" dangling down it's still a total cluster. I don't have a picture of it, I still need to wire up the brake booster and the fat ass battery cables then will show it off.

Besides installing the driveshaft and shims, I got the throttle cable hooked up.

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It's kind of hard to see, but it turned out awesome. I machined a little shaft that slides onto the throttle body pivot and then the wire runs through it, and then cut out a bracket for the other side and the cable runs to the stock throttle linkage. Seems to work great!

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In the next day or two I'm getting a sexy brake line flaring tool. I'm going to reflare all the lines I made to be safe, and with some luck that should be the final thing (besides finishing the wiring) to make the truck drivable!
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
It drives!!!

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Those are the only two photos I have from my neighbor pulling it back into the shop, thanks to him for helping me today.

Most if not all of the front brake lines I made need to be redone, so I ended up just plugging the front outlet on the master since the rear brakes needed minimum work to get going. I also wired in the master, and ran wires from the battery up to the front and installed some little junction boxes that need to be made nicer eventually. Really that was it to make it run and drive!

The engine is a little finicky, the throttle body has a bunch of plugs running to it and is acting really weird. It's like semi mechanical so half of the pedal travel doesn't do anything and then the butterfly valve starts to move. There's a big motor that I guess moves the valve but it doesn't seem to be working for the best I can tell, which maybe explains why the engine took a bit of effort to get running (I assume the idle air control is also through the big motor?). With the exception of the weird throttle, once it warmed up a bit it ran like a charm though! Actually was more power than I was expecting considering the engine is in it's weakest possible state right now.

The brakes, albeit just the rears, work REALLY well. The electronic booster is absolutely amazing and so simple! I definitely plan to convert the FJ40 and maybe my buggy to this setup.

The transmission works great! Though reverse is hard to find. On the FJ40 I need to let the clutch out in neutral to spin the gears sometimes, I assume because reverse has no synchro, so maybe that's all the issue is with the CD009 but I'll play with it more.

Handling and steering can't say much, the tie rod barely clears the bell housing and actually hits it at the extremes but it seems like it has plenty of steering angle right now. In general the truck rode fine and everything seemed to function well.

Onto issues, which there's really only one: the thermostat didn't seem to open and the engine got pretty damn hot since the temperature sensor isn't hooked up. Its a brand new thermostat so unless I installed it backwards I'm not sure what the deal is. I'll probably just run it without it and make sure everything is good, plus test the thermostat.

The ignition stays on at 9.5V after I shut it off, and it's being powered by the ECU. I thought it turned off after awhile at one point, but need to verify and see if that's normal.

The MAF seems functional, but there's no intake temperature data from it for some reason. Not sure if it's the sensor or a wiring issue.

The coolant temperature sensor plug has a wire ripped out so I need to fix that. The ECU is setup to control the fan so that's pretty important.

I also need to mount the temporary seats I have and some seat belts.

Fix those things, get the front brakes hooked up, install the body panels and I think it'll be ready to cruise into town! I think this is the first drive in 6-7 years for the Hilux assuming the paperwork I got with it was when it ran, and now it's back in action with a 2JZ!
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
I think I got a few issues sorted! Lots of reading ahead!

First off the thermostat seems fine, so I drilled three holes in it to let water pass through. I'm guessing the jiggle valve was either in the wrong place or not flowing enough water so a cold water bubble formed at the thermostat not letting it open. There is a coolant bypass hose that comes off the thermostat housing which I would think would stop that from happening... But that's why I drilled the holes to let a bit more bleed happen through the thermostat. I had the same issue on my buggy but it doesn't have any coolant bypass off the thermostat, so we'll see if that fixes it. I was worried maybe the water pump is spinning backwards since I don't have the power steering pump or AC compressor on but I didn't change the pulley on the water pump so that wouldn't happen... Only other alternative is the water pump is utterly shot which seems unlikely too.

Onto the fun troubleshooting
:rofl:


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Lots of weird s*** going on. First of all the battery was dead, so the ecu didn't apparently turn off. The ECU ignition fuse needs to be pulled to turn the ignition off otherwise it hangs out at 9.5V? It's weird. What's even weirder is the TPS sensor which is presumably the biggest issue, has 5V+ at the ground!!! Bro what.

Oh, and I went to fix the coolant temperature sensor plug only to find out that what I thought was the sensor wasn't... Or maybe it is? I'm very confused, apparently there is two sensors but only one really matters, and I'm not sure what the sensor that I thought was the ECT sensor actually does or if it's even stock, since where the oil pressure sensor is appears to be plugged and then there's this other sensor.... My neighbor thought it was a oil pressure safety switch or whatever it's called where it turns the oil light on below a certain pressure, since it's a single wire sensor. What's weird is on the diagram I saw (and I haven't delved into this heavily yet) there is an oil pressure sensor (or safety switch thing) coming off the head, and I can see where that is but it appears to just be a plug with a hole in the middle. It's almost like the wire got yanked out of that sensor, and someone installed this secondary one on the block a few inches below it. Or the one on the head isn't a sensor and is literally just a plug, but again why would it be plugged? It's rather odd. ANYWAYS, s*** is confusing, the actual ECT I found and guess what? IT HAS 5V+ ON THE GROUND ALSO.

So I unplugged the ECU, checked all the grounds which were grounded correctly besides apparently these two sensors and said f*** it, pull the rats nest apart and figure out what is going on. And the issue is actually in plain sight in that photo. For whatever f***ing reason, the ground for the TPS runs away from the ECU and under the intake towards the injectors and then to the transmission (or where the automatic used to be). That section is what's draped over on the right, and at that plug there is two wires that were ripped out. And you guessed it, one of them is a ground and is the only ground wire that seems to have continuity to the TPS and as it turns out, the ECT sensor too! That doesn't answer why those ports had 5V going to them, but there is a second wire that is pulled out of that plug which I'm guessing has 5V when the ECU is connected and was "shorting" to the disconnected ground which also was never connected to ground anymore to begin with. I'm guessing that plug went to the tranny and grounded out there? It's really weird, everything else has a direct ground path and these two sensors run through a plug at the transmission I guess.

Tonight I think I'll pull the harness off the injectors and completely tear it down and delete all those wires going to the back and rewire the ground to somewhere on the intake. There's a lot of wires in the harness I don't use so I can remove quite a few while I'm this deep into it. Hopefully that will fix the throttle, make the coolant temp work which hopefully turns the fans in, maybe it'll fix the weird ignition power issue, and then hopefully the thermostat is fixed! Find out more tomorrow! :D
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
Some big strides! I tore up the harness more and cut out a bunch of useless stuff, mostly going to the transmission but also some other plugs I don't need. Also the sensor I was confused by was a knock sensor, and the oil pressure switch is off of the oil filter bracket, so that mystery plug off the head I think is literally just a plug.

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It further turns out that the ground loop that went to the transmission plug originated from the body harness, most of which I didn't have connected. So the TPS and ECT grounds came from the body unlike most of the engine sensors that grounded directly to the engine or through the ECU. With that figured out I buttoned it back up, using abrasive resistant electrical tape.

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Annnnnd the TPS now has no positive continuity. Fast forward a bunch and some confusion, and turns out the ECU "B" plug has a 5V reference wire that powers some of the sensors. This wire was NEVER hooked up, so I'm utterly confused as to how those sensors had 5V before. It seems like stuff was shorting and jumping around all sorts of weird. Between wiring the reference 5V to the correct bundle and taking the grounds that went to the body plugs and connecting them to the block, EVERYTHING ended up fixed! Like more stuff ended up fixed than I was trying to fix! The IAT sensor now works, the ECT and TPS works, the motor for the throttle body made a noise, all kinds of stuff now works on the engine!

All the engine codes I had disappeared with the exception of one: the accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS). The IS300 has a semi mechanical but otherwise drive by wire system, so effectively with the APPS missing it was in mechanical limp mode where the mechanical actuator doesn't do anything for the first 50% of travel and then engages, limiting power and f***ing with the idle. I'd heard about mechanical conversions so went ahead and took the throttle body apart to see what I could do. Making it fully mechanical only messes with the idle, but there's a physical idle set screw anyways so not a big deal.

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Long story short, all that was needed to fix it was take that little lever above and reposition it about 30deg down and that made it all mechanical! I grabbed some steel and welded another arm onto it and I now have full throttle, zero throttle lag, and eliminated the need for the throttle body motor as well as an electromagnet!

The final thing is the truck was still overheating, even with the thermostat pulled. I thought the water pump was flowing backwards since it was sucking water towards the thermostat so the thermostat was always seeing cold water.

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It turns out the thermostat is in the intake side of the engine which sounds like is somewhat uncommon? Essentially the engine recirculates coolant internally and once it gets hot the thermostat cracks and flushes cold water in which cools the engine and thermostat thus closing it, so the engine tends to run hotter since there is no bypass around the thermostat so it needs to get to full temperature before there's any water flow.

This shouldn't really affect anything since it's a closed system, but since my intake hose off the radiator is on the high side that means any air in the radiator will stop coolant being sucked to the engine--again shouldn't matter until you lose any coolant OR have an air bubble. I jacked up the drivers side so the intake hose off the radiator was on the lower side and then let it warm up and fed it the hose and that seemed to be the key! Bleeding it correctly was the issue the whole time! I took it for a drive and got gas and the hottest it got was 200 (and I don't think the radiator fan is turning on).

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I had two instances where the engine died, but they were both after throttle pulls and then punching the clutch so I think it's just the rpm dropping and not recovering before it dies. The one weird thing is I seem to have to turn the ignition off to get it to restart, since just cranking it after it dies didn't work. Kind of odd, need to troubleshoot that more. But it runs and drives and doesn't overheat! Next up is get the front brakes replumbed and install body panels.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
Almost 4 months to the day, and the biggest achievement of them all has happened, the first real drive! Got the front brakes plumber, through the panels back on, and went for a 30 mile drive!

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View from inside, right now I'm using my phone sitting in the ash tray as a digital dash connected to the OBD2 port.

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The trip was amazingly successful! This thing is already a blast, and will just get better!

The brakes are absolutely insane, now to be fair the truck weighs about 2300lbs (I weighed it over the weekend at 2195 with a tank of gas and no panels) and the tires are tiny and probably the cheapest 26" tires in the world--- but that electronic booster is absolutely next level and it's stupid easy to lock everything up. Maybe to the point of being dangerous if a stranger got in and drove.

I'm not sure how to wire the ECU to tell the fan to turn on, so I just plugged the ignition block into the fuse relay trigger so the fan is on when the ignition is on, and the hottest the engine got was 185 and I think it has a 180deg thermostat. Now that's not saying much, but I was worried the radiator wouldn't get any airflow and I'd still like to put some scoops under the body to grab air but it seemed like it stayed totally cool the whole time. I'm curious how hot it'll get without the fan on at speed, but the cooling system seems to be working!

The transmission is great! Though I dropped into 3rd and 4th and 5th unintentionally way more than I'd like to admit. Luckily the 2jz has a nearly 7000rpm stock redline plus I wasn't going very fast, but I'm used to the FJ40 which has only 4 gears and a lot of throw between them. Finding 6th is especially hard, though it might just be my worry of it hitting reverse and not pushing to the right hard enough. A stock transmission has a reverse lock out which my shifter got rid of, though it'll grind and not drop into reverse over a few mph obviously but it's still a fear I have. The FJ40 you have to very intentionally go into reverse, this is like a 1/4" difference between 6th and reverse. With that said the transmission is already a blast, I've never driven anything with 6 speeds and with the 4.10 rear ratio you go through all of them pretty fast if you want! 3000rpm in 6th is just shy of 70mph, so it's definitely geared a bit short. The gearing is about 30% lower than a stock 350Z rear end I think.

The steering and handling are kind of what you'd expect out of an old vehicle, but honestly comparing to the FJ again it feels great. The steering wheel seems to have a good bit of slop but it doesn't wander at all, and it brakes straight. The FJ is a bit of a work out to keep pointed straight and this thing just cruised.

The one issue I did have is right at 5000rpm the ignition turns off. This is the same issue I mentioned from the other day but now I have it figured it out. I have to fully turn the ignition off and on and then it's fine, but it's right around 5k every time and it dies. I'm thinking since I have one 30A relay powering my ignition bus bar that then powers a bunch of other 30A rated things that maybe a relay is just acting like a breaker and turning off power to the bus bar? But I think the fuel pump stays on which should turn off if the ignition goes off, so maybe it's something else. But it's definitely the ecu or igniter turning off from what I'm guessing is too much power draw for what I'm supplying at high rpm with a lot of spark. That's my theory at least. Just another one of those wiring things that needs to be done properly, hopefully. But on that note the ECU turns off and isn't drawing power after I turn it off! I don't know why it stopped doing that but it's fixed
:D


Oh and one final thing, it is INSANELY loud. It needs a muffler asap, we had to wear ear muffs for the whole drive since it's so f***ing loud. People are like I want a loud exhaust, you haven't heard loud until you have a 12" long pipe off the header flange pointed at the floorboard. God it's f***ing horrible, but it does snap crackle and pop during shifts which is entertaining
:D


Lots more to come, but today was a huge day where the truck transformed into an actually useable little toy that will now get upgraded and improved on instead of a single huge undertaking to make something functional. I can take it to lunch and keep improving it and not feel like I bit off more than I can chew with each little modification!

Thanks for reading and enjoying this milestone and 4 months of hard work!
 
Joined
Mar 24, 2002
Messages
614
Location
Peachland BC Canada
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I'm not sure how to wire the ECU to tell the fan to turn on, so I just plugged the ignition block into the fuse relay trigger so the fan is on when the ignition is on, and the hottest the engine got was 185 and I think it has a 180deg thermostat. Now that's not saying much, but I was worried the radiator wouldn't get any airflow and I'd still like to put some scoops under the body to grab air but it seemed like it stayed totally cool the whole time. I'm curious how hot it'll get without the fan on at speed, but the cooling system seems to be working!
I used the dual version of this on the electric fans in my FJ40. Its worked really great.

 
Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
241
Location
SW Utah
Last week after f***ing around with the engine more and joining an IS300 forum of which people just told me to replace the acceleration pedal position sensor which I had a CEL for, I found in the description of a YouTube video for the pedal sensor that it could cause limp mode issues. Fixing the CEL seemed like the obvious path forward since nothing else was blatantly wrong, even though there was no indication of my issue from that. The pedal position sensor it turns out has really weird wiring, and it was never connected to the ECU which seemed weird considering I was getting a CEL for it. The wiring for the sensor runs into the body harness plugs and then there's inputs back into the ECU from the body that carries those same wires. Just like the TPS and CTS, they talk to the ECU but don't directly go to it for who knows why. After tearing the harness down AGAIN just to find that all I had to do was connect two pigtails on two plugs, the pedal position sensor finally could talk to the ECU! Annnnnd that fixed it!

Again, who knows why, but the sensor being disconnected from the ECU was stopping it revving over 5000rpm. Now, an explanation of the drive by wire system: you push the pedal which pulls a cable connected to the throttle body butterfly valve. In stock form there is no motion until about 50% throttle and then as a mechanical backup the butterfly can be physically actuated. What happens is you give it throttle, the accelerator pedal position sensor reads that motion in the cable and tells the ECU which then tells a motor to move, which is then monitored by the TPS and tells the ECU it moved. So you effectively give the ECU an electronic input with one sensor, a motor moves which actuates the butterfly, and the TPS gives the ECU the output of what happened. The reason all of this is important is I had to remove the little tab I had welded on to "manually convert" the throttle body since I had fear that the motor would try to override the physical motions I'd give the throttle. On the plus side though, after some testing it seems that the actuator motor is completely dumb (thus why the TPS exists downstream of it) since unplugging the motor doesn't throw a CEL. So after reconverting the actuator to a manual setup and unplugging the motor, and having the pedal position sensor doing something (which doesn't really matter? Because the TPS is what tells the ECU that the butterfly opened...) now I have full throttle and it's all manually controlled!

That was pretty drawn out to say that today I went for the first drive where everything seemed to function perfectly! And the Hilux is an absolute blast! Bouncing off the limiter and shifting through the gears is amazing. The engine seems to want to rev and peak torque and horsepower are both at 6000+rpm, so being able to go over 5000rpm is actually quite noticeable. I even took it up to 100mph, and besides a driveshaft wobble (from installing the wrong axle shims) it felt solid. I'm probably gonna weld the rear sooner rather than later since just rolling into first or second feels like one tire is just burning out. I also think I'm going to run the exhaust to behind the cab and that should fix 90% of the noise issues. I had been considering just turboing it now on low boost to help with the exhaust but I want to run it N/A for a bit to make sure it's happy.

Here's a little walk-around video:



Then on Saturday I installed an exhaust that I had laying around from a different vehicle.

PXL_20220702_181205216.jpg


Then went for a 70 mile drive up the mountain and back down and it ran like an absolute charm and is a complete blast to drive!

Yesterday I went to my neighbors work and we dyno'd it because why not
:rofl:


PXL_20220704_220847485.jpg


PXL_20220704_221408107.jpg


And the graph:

PXL_20220704_224343935~2.jpg


160hp and 160ft-lbf. This is the first time I've ever been on a dyno, and that is the "corrected" number which I guess is what people compare with. The actual power at elevation was about 125hp/tq.

This is pretty pointless besides a baseline, so right now the truck is 125hp and weighs ~2300lb with no one in it. The one weird thing was the rev limiter was around 6200rpm and it should be at 6800rpm. I don't know if there's some other weird stock ECU thing turning it down. Im not going down that rabbit hole much since it runs completely normally otherwise, but is odd.

I'm also now back to debating just spending the $2k on the cheap turbo kit
:D
but I should stay focused on getting good seats and redoing all the wiring so it has lights and stuff...
 

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