510FJ80 Build/Repair Thread (1 Viewer)

[510FJ80]

I guess its finally time to do this. I've been lurking here for a while, I've been driving a '92 FJ80 with now 263,XXX miles on the clock for about 10 months now. Just got it registered in my name last week, so now shes my baby and I want to do her right. I have very little experience with cars in general, yet am excited to launch into the journey with an open mind and a commitment to such a lovely vehicle. Since I want to learn and I'm not wealthy, I'd like to do most repairs etc etc myself, or at least try to learn whats going on before I bring in anyone else. I figure this truck is more than worth my time investment and whatever $$ i may throw at it. I don't have a name for her yet, however I love her in a way I've never loved any other car I've owned. I hope to keep her as long as feasible.

Here's a pic:

Anyways I'll continue with my updates here as log for myself and hopefully to provide back to such a generous wealth of knowledge (mud). oh and I'm sure I'll need help

 

[510FJ80]

So for a while I was dealing with some troublesome issues, though the truck still ran amazingly.
Hard to start and stay running without some added gas, poor acceleration and power, she would stall when coming to any stop unless i feathered the gas, and i had pretty much no reverse (she would buck and move a few feet, buck again and move a few feet, or stall if not enough gas pedal). After a while of looking around on mud and the internet, and having brought it to two shops for inspection, I was kinda at a loss and just drove with both feet for a while.

Eventually I found the source of my problem. The air hose #2 was cracked:

The lower crack on the seam i think is much worse after i removed the crazy gorilla glue setup I put on to make her work till the new part arrived. (will post pic). I didnt even notice the crack higher up, as it was underneath when installed, I was plain shocked.

After covering with tape initially, and especially replacing the hose, the truck runs so much smoother. Idle issues gone, no stalling, reverse is back in action, she's great. Until today....

 

[510FJ80]

I should also note after I replaced the hose I was finally able to get smogged. I passed, though almost above limit HC levels? The tech noted that when doing the smog check he noticed one of my vacuum lines was disconnected (the ones that run next to these big hoses, I believe here.

When I drove to the smog check that day, after her running fine for a few weeks or so, she had a crazy erratic idle, I had to keep her at 750+ rpm to stay alive at stops, and very low power. After the smog test and the "reinstalled hose" she ran a lot better than earlier in the day, like before.

She's had kind of a rough idle at stops, and has for as long as I've known her. When she starts up she revs to about 1000-1100, and then comes down to 650~. After she is warmed up though, at stops, idle sits at 650 and drops down when the occasional rumbling is happening.

 

[510FJ80]

Now today, when driving around I noticed when I pulled onto the freeway that it seemed like she was kinda struggling to get up to speed. Once at constant highway speeds she felt fine, and I had no issues, until I got off the freeway. As soon as I got off, I noticed that the crazy erratic idle had returned (jumping between almost 100?-600) and she stalled at the first long light. I got her running and had to keep on the gas while braking and at stops. I pulled over to see if I could visually confirm maybe the same hose coming loose or anything else.
I was unable to change much or see anything other than a few possible hoses that look old. I got her home and got back to searching.

I went to the store and bought some hose and replaced the initial hose the tech had said slipped off since it seemed cracked at the end, loose and in need of replacement. Tried to start the car, it cranks, but doesn't catch and run.
Further inspection revealed that the vacuum hosing near my EGR is not as it should be. The pipe where the hose from the R on the EGR- VM should go in was just open (circled in red lower down). After tracing where the R line was connected (as seen in blue below), I was able to see that the red circle at the top (throttle body?) was also an open pipe.

Open pipe below EGR-VM, where R line is supposed to go

And here is the above shot showing it connected all the way across. Oh and my sexy new air hose.

Close up:

And finally I took that long hose, cut it and it fit perfectly to make two hoses that I believe now go to the right places:

 

[510FJ80]

I tried starting her, she still cranks, but doesn't start .
It did seem like she half started when i let off the key though. Gas pedal did nothing to help.

I ordered a new PCV valve and gasket since I noticed a decent leak. We'll see if that helps at all.
Any thoughts on my situation mudders?

 

[BILT4ME]

Congrats on your truck and welcome!

I can't help much other than to direct you to search all posts from @jonheld . He's the guru on the 91-92 trucks.

He has a troubleshooting guide he put together just for them. Search to see if you can find it. Otherwise, he may show and help out. Listen and do what he tells you.

 

[Marco Lau]

welcome.
check out this link

91-92 Vacuum logic diagram?

Does anyone have a vacuum logic diagram from a 3FE FJ80? I have been searching for one that shows vacuum lines from a component and connection standpoint instead of a spacial "how it looks in the engine bay" layout. This is the best spacial diagram I can find, but it's not easy for me to...

forum.ih8mud.com

I would double check the 2 nipples on top of the manifold and make sure the hoses are connected correctly to the hard pipes at the back of the TB. Those 2 nipples are the vacuum source and all of the hard pipes do not connect to each other but to specific solenoids and emission bits. Although i doubt that is the culprit for no start tho.

 

[510FJ80]

Congrats on your truck and welcome!

I can't help much other than to direct you to search all posts from @jonheld . He's the guru on the 91-92 trucks.

He has a troubleshooting guide he put together just for them. Search to see if you can find it. Otherwise, he may show and help out. Listen and do what he tells you.

Thanks a lot, good to be here. I found his site late last night so Ill go over it the next few days. Much appreciated

 

[510FJ80]

welcome.
check out this link

91-92 Vacuum logic diagram?

Does anyone have a vacuum logic diagram from a 3FE FJ80? I have been searching for one that shows vacuum lines from a component and connection standpoint instead of a spacial "how it looks in the engine bay" layout. This is the best spacial diagram I can find, but it's not easy for me to...

forum.ih8mud.com

I would double check the 2 nipples on top of the manifold and make sure the hoses are connected correctly to the hard pipes at the back of the TB. Those 2 nipples are the vacuum source and all of the hard pipes do not connect to each other but to specific solenoids and emission bits. Although i doubt that is the culprit for no start tho.

I will try this first thing. I had a thought the other lines might be connected to the wrong places. I'll check it out. Crazy how long the truck ran for with these open vacuum pipes.
PS I totally have your truck in my inspiration folder

 

[510FJ80]

Alright so today I was finally able to get back under the hood.

I reset the ECU last night on a whim as well.
I double checked that the vac lines are going to the right places. Deciphering those diagrams is a pain,
I'm pretty sure everything checks out.

I then installed my new PCV valve and grommet. What a bear! That grommet was ROCK HARD, it took me way too long to wiggle it free. What ended up working for me was lifting the rim of the grommet up with a flathead until it kinda broke off. The PCV had more wiggle now, so I did that all the way around. Then i pulled and twisted at different angles to get the lower part of the grommet loose, and i actually pushed everything down inside. from there i could seperate the PCV and the i just fished what was left of the grommet out.

Looks like new, especially compared to the old. I think i got all the crusty bits out of there.

I tried starting the truck once everything was back together. took about 6 or 7 cranks for her to fire up, and she was very hesitant to get up to RPM. Adding throttle kept the needle going up a little easier, stopping at about 950 RPM. I let her idle for ~10min and got up to temp. She purred like a kitten, very smooth, though high idle. After 10 minutes, it only dropped down to about~725 RPM.

So off I went. Quickly I realized she was a bit low on power, but holding idle at lights etc. 650 dead on.
Then i decided a little highway run would be a good idea. Accelerating up the ramp and to speed was very tough. Very slow. She was shaking a lot and kinda stumbling if i put on more than half throttle, and happy but slow if i kept my foot light. Like something about too much throttle was just way too much for the car. I'm not lying when i tell you it took about a minute or more to get up to 60 mph.
I also noticed once at highway speed, when i had my foot on the throttle there was a distinct "whine" noise that when away when i released my foot.

After i got off the highway, the same symptoms continued at lower speeds, now with a rough idle. The needle hunted between 400-650 rpm, and kinda stumbled and shook again when below 600. Keeping throttle on at lgihts up to 800 RPM stopped all symptoms until i needed to actually move, and then again I had super low power, and even less with added throttle and the shaking.

It still seems like some kind of vacuum leak to me, however I've checked all the lines and i haven't found any more brittle or cracked lines. Now that the PCV is in, the symptoms are still present but slightly different .

 

[Travis 76]

You can spray carb cleaner around the lines, if there isn’t still a leak it will get sucked in and change the idle speed. Also do a tune up, spark plugs wires, distributer cap and rotor, set the timing. Having the timing right can make a huge difference to how the engine runs and how much power you feel while driving.

 

[510FJ80]

You can spray carb cleaner around the lines, if there isn’t still a leak it will get sucked in and change the idle speed. Also do a tune up, spark plugs wires, distributer cap and rotor, set the timing. Having the timing right can make a huge difference to how the engine runs and how much power you feel while driving.

Carb cleaner around the lines how?

I should get timing checked, though recent smog said it was fine. Also did rotor, cap, wires, and spark plugs in march. think they need a redo?

 

[510FJ80]

Also noticed today my coolant looked like just water.... very clear. not sure whats up with that.
Also checked the codes per FSM and it came up with no codes... I have driven the truck a few times since ECU reset

 

[LINUS]

Also noticed today my coolant looked like just water.... very clear. not sure whats up with that.
Also checked the codes per FSM and it came up with no codes... I have driven the truck a few times since ECU reset

In the ‘perfect vacuum’ world of science, straight water is a excellent fluid for heat removal/control.

If you NEVER go anywhere that remotely gets frost on your 80, it’s not mission critical.

Antifreeze is preferred as it has corrosion inhibitors, etc - but truely tracked racecars run water both for the science and for the PITA of glycol cleanup if they pop a hose or rub a core support into a safety barrier (IE crash).

I think they are allowed a product called Water Wetter, but no glycol on a track/strip.

 

[Travis 76]

I would think the plugs and stuff should be fine. Maybe pull one out to see if there is any contamination. Definitely check the timing.

 

[510FJ80]

So just as an update, it ended up being the igniter and coil. and I think the egr. Swapped igniter module out and plugged vaccum lines at throttle body leading to EGR system as a cheap work around for now. Vac line plug helped with acceleration, power and stumbling, and the igniter and coil fixed the rough idle and definitely helped with power etc. Truck is running better than it has in the last year.

 

[510FJ80]

Oh joy, fun times ahead. I'm another victim to the click no start issue. Lights come on the dash.
I've been reading a lot of posts and tried to check the logic path as @jonheld suggested.
Battery reads 12.6v, 11.7v when trying to start
cleaned battery posts and terminals with wire brush
checked fusible link, appears fine. cleaned all parts with the wire brush and reassembled. Ordered 2x more fusible links from wit's end and will swap when those arrive.
wiring from pos. bat. terminal to starter appears fine on visual check
AM1 fuse appears fine. Will grab another just to check.

 

[510FJ80]

Oh joy, I'm another victim to the click no start issue. Lights come on the dash.
I've been reading a lot of posts and tried to check the logic path as @jonheld suggested. (92 3FE btw)

-Battery reads 12.6v, 11.7v when trying to start. cleaned battery posts and terminals with wire brush. reattached cables and checked for tightness. Was able to start the truck a few times with a jump, now that does not seem to work. Also she magically rand fine with about 6 or so starts with no issues, though on the last start she was a bit slow to crank/start.
- cleaned 2 grounds near battery, need to find fsm to locate others
-checked fusible link, appears fine. cleaned all parts with the wire brush and reassembled. Ordered 2x more fusible links from wit's end and will swap when those arrive.
-wiring from pos. bat. terminal to starter appears fine on visual check (can't say insides aren't crap)
-AM1 fuse appears fine. Will grab another just to check.
-did not check ignition switch yet.
-could not start vehicle in neutral so ruling out NSS for now
-could not start vehicle with bangs to the starter. I had a recent oil leak from the pushrod cover and there was oil and grime on the starter connections. I cleaned off the connections, reattached and confirmed they were secure.

At this point based on what I've read here on mud, I'm guessing its my starter or the wiring from pos. terminal to the starter. Might just get a replacement starter to check/have a spare.

 

[jonheld]

Oh joy, fun times ahead. I'm another victim to the click no start issue. Lights come on the dash.

The most common cause is worn solenoid contacts. Replacement contacts are available from Toyota if you have an OEM Denso starter.
Many many many threads about this.

Search results for query: starter contacts

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Rush]

I'm battling this on my truck ATM as well, will will update you if I get anywhere with it today.