5 year old oil filter (1 Viewer)

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Not much to say here, but just wanted to run this by you guys. I bought this 2002 cruiser about a month ago and when I checked the oil, the level was right and the color was brownish but not too dark.

After putting almost 3k miles on it, I took it to my mechanic for an oil change, and when he went to take off the oil filter, he almost shat his pants. The date written on the filter with a sharpie says 9/6/13. Says something else too that I can't quite make out.
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When I was buying the truck, the PO said the oil change was done about 3 months ago. He also said that he's been using regular oil, Mobil One.


I don't know much about oils, so I just told my mechanic to change my oil with regular oil, and he put in some unfancy synthetic-blend type in there.

Can anyone comment on what damage may have been done by not changing the filter for almost 5 years? Was it bad to switch to generic synthetic blend after using Mobile One, if that is even what they used?

Can I switch to full synthetic after 16 years of it getting regular oil?

Any chance that the oil was actually changed, and just the filter was neglected? Guy told me it was serviced at the toyota dealer, but I have a hunch the dealer wouldn't have neglected the oil filter..
 
Switching to synthetic shouldn't be any issue. Mine was running on conventional since '98. I did the first oil change during the baselining period back in April '17 and switched to Mobil1 5w30 Synthetic. That was at 151k. I've now got 174k and done 3 more oil changes since the baseline (always using Mobil1 Synthetic and a genuine Toyota OEM filter). No issues to report at all. Engine seems to run smoother, but that could just be psychosomatic.

Not really sure what running an oil filter as long as that one above would do. I would assume that any filtration properties would have long ago expired meaning "dirty" oil was running through the engine. These motors (2UZ-FE) are notoriously "easy" on oil though. They have one of the most efficient oil paths of any motor made according to multiple LandCruiser mechanics in my area, 2 Toyota mechanics and a mechanic for one of my friends who races cars professionally. I would personally do a quick flip oil change (change it now with a new filter and again in 1k-1.5k miles) in order to "flush" any bad things floating around in there. After that, change every 3500k with a new oil filter each time. I would think that would do just fine. Keep in mind, I'm just a shade-tree mechanic and have no scientific information to back the above. It's just my gut telling me what sounds right. Good luck.
 
Switching to synthetic shouldn't be any issue. Mine was running on conventional since '98. I did the first oil change during the baselining period back in April '17 and switched to Mobil1 5w30 Synthetic. That was at 151k. I've now got 174k and done 3 more oil changes since the baseline (always using Mobil1 Synthetic and a genuine Toyota OEM filter). No issues to report at all. Engine seems to run smoother, but that could just be psychosomatic.

Not really sure what running an oil filter as long as that one above would do. I would assume that any filtration properties would have long ago expired meaning "dirty" oil was running through the engine. These motors (2UZ-FE) are notoriously "easy" on oil though. They have one of the most efficient oil paths of any motor made according to multiple LandCruiser mechanics in my area, 2 Toyota mechanics and a mechanic for one of my friends who races cars professionally. I would personally do a quick flip oil change (change it now with a new filter and again in 1k-1.5k miles) in order to "flush" any bad things floating around in there. After that, change every 3500k with a new oil filter each time. I would think that would do just fine. Keep in mind, I'm just a shade-tree mechanic and have no scientific information to back the above. It's just my gut telling me what sounds right. Good luck.
I like all this advice, except I think a 3500 interval for regular changes is way too often. I think 7500 miles with synthetic oil is plenty often.

Do login to the Toyota site, if they were maintaining it at the dealer, every time they touch your truck they will log it. It is also worth doing a Carfax, many independent shops will share that information with Carfax is well.

Considering the filter neglect, I would definitely change your differential and transfer case oil. Also grease your driveshaft joints, check to see that your transmission fluid looks red and clean, not brown, jack the front of your vehicle, then try to shake the wheels holding at 12-6, if play, pursue wheel bearing inspection. If you can’t find records of it being done, flush your brake fluid, and inspect your pads. Finally, change your heater tees.
 
I like all this advice, except I think a 3500 interval for regular changes is way too often. I think 7500 miles with synthetic oil is plenty often.

Do login to the Toyota site, if they were maintaining it at the dealer, every time they touch your truck they will log it. It is also worth doing a Carfax, many independent shops will share that information with Carfax is well.

Considering the filter neglect, I would definitely change your differential and transfer case oil. Also grease your driveshaft joints, check to see that your transmission fluid looks red and clean, not brown, jack the front of your vehicle, then try to shake the wheels holding at 12-6, if play, pursue wheel bearing inspection. If you can’t find records of it being done, flush your brake fluid, and inspect your pads. Finally, change your heater tees.

Yeah, 3500 is a bit too often for sure for quality synthetic. I guess I'm just a bit overly cautious taking care of an older vehicle. My LX is the first vehicle I've ever owned that had more than 65k on the clock. I usually bought new or slightly used and traded/sold once over 65k. I was nervous about buying something with 150k on the clock. But, that has since proven to be unfounded thanks to the quality of these rigs. I'm planning on sending my next oil sample to Blackstone for an analysis and from there probably switch up to a 7500-10k interval. I'm still amazed that this engine being 20+ years old doesn't burn or leak 1 single drop of oil. It's quite impressive actually. My 2 previous Outbacks tended to leak oil because of the "boxer" engine format. Always has to stay on top of those.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I tried to register it on the toyota website but it tells me that they have no maintenance records of it. So either I was lied to, or I don't know.. Maybe I'll try calling the dealer they purportedly serviced it at, to see if they could confirm.

The heater T's look pretty decent, so maybe it still was maintained somewhat. I ordered new T's anyway.

I had my mechanic grease the grease points and also the shaft at the rear. He had to take it out and wire brush the corrosion off it in order to let it slide again. Wheels appeared to have no wobble when I pushed them around when it was suspended at the shop.
 
I'd give the owners site a try again later, they seem to go into maintenance themselves from time to time. I don't think any us truck would be without at least one record from delivery.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I tried to register it on the toyota website but it tells me that they have no maintenance records of it. So either I was lied to, or I don't know.. Maybe I'll try calling the dealer they purportedly serviced it at, to see if they could confirm.

The heater T's look pretty decent, so maybe it still was maintained somewhat. I ordered new T's anyway.

I had my mechanic grease the grease points and also the shaft at the rear. He had to take it out and wire brush the corrosion off it in order to let it slide again. Wheels appeared to have no wobble when I pushed them around when it was suspended at the shop.

Heater Ts generally look fine until you pull the hoses off. That's where the damage actually occurs. As a matter of routine baselining, I replace the Heater Ts immediately. Those and rust are effectively the only achilles heels for cruisers.
 
I wouldn't sweat it one bit. Switch to full synthetic and do 10k oil changes with a filter change at 5k. If you're concerned that's too long, send a sample to Blackstone Labs for $30 and get real information. They'll likely tell you 10k is too little and you should be going longer!

In regular use vehicles I think simply having oil in the engine is the most important thing. Modern oils are all pretty awesome these days - even the cheap stuff.
 
They may have written the date wrong, or they may have for some reason been changing the oil and not the filter (seen it before) or worst case may have been really that old.

Either way i'd start using synthetic. For now keep what was changed in there. And then when ready to change again (id short change it to 3k max right now) send a sample in to black stone. They will be able to tell you if there is some bad things going on.
 
Just did my valve cover gaskets today and saw firsthand validation how good the oil distribution is......gaskets had been leaking so there was oil burn around the outside of the seals which were clearly well beyond their lifespan. But the inside was immaculate. Still can't believe how shiny everything was and how clean the oil was. BTW, drivers side was much harder than passenger side, but total job was less than 2 hours.

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