#5 plug is fouling out

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by tonkota, Jun 27, 2005.

  1. tonkota

    tonkota

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    This has been an on going problem for me. It happened with the 3F-E, and now it's happening with the 2F-E. The head was rebuilt and checked for cracks, I used an OEM head gasket, and it runs great till that plug is clogged up. And it's only the #5 plug. I use NGK plugs.

    I have a theory about the little coolant lines that run in the 3F-E intake. I think that there may be a crack there and the coolant is slowly getting burned off.

    It may be a head gasket, but I really doubt it. The oil has no water in it, and the coolant has no oil in it.

    Should I take the coolant lines from the intake, and spray some carb cleaner down there to see what happens?

    Thoughts? I am really lost on this.
     
  2. cahilc

    cahilc

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    Jsut spitballing here, but ...

    Even compression test across the cylinders ?

    KV (resistant) test your number 5 plug wire ? Compare to others ?

    Cahil
     
  3. tonkota

    tonkota

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    I have not done a compression test, but this 2F short block only has 622 miles on it. I replaced the wires today. The old ones (Bosch) were really loose fitting.

    Maybe I'm just paranoid and the rings aren't set yet?
     
  4. Tinker

    Tinker

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    What's it fouled with?
     
  5. Slow N Steady

    Slow N Steady

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    Retorque the Head. Had the same thing when I put mine together, just mine was low on Cyl. #1. The compression (hot) was (1-6) 100, 120, 140, 140, 135, 140, 145. Now, after the retorque, they are all pretty much 140 to 145! And that's with 188k on the bottom end. A Compression check is a MUST. Spend the $$ at Sears and pick one up. Then, while you are at it, pick up a couple of guage pods and fill them with a Vacuum Guage and a Mechanical Temperature guage. These will save you thousands of $$'s. Now, if only I could get my wobbly rear drums sorted out ...............Good luck!
     
  6. woody

    woody unhelpful spotter Staff Member Admin

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    IIRC, the brake booster draw's it's vacuum directly above #5...I recall reading that bad boosters = burned valves on #5/#6....
     
  7. tonkota

    tonkota

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    I did re-torque the head after it had been warmed up. Each bolt did turn just a bit.

    If the brake booster is bad, would the brakes be tougher to push than normal?

    The plug is fouling with "contamination" of some sort. Autolite's web site has a pretty good set of pictures of plugs with different type of problems. Mine looks like #9 and #10.

    http://www.autolite.com/tech/PlugTips.pdf

    Thanks for the help so far!!
     
  8. woody

    woody unhelpful spotter Staff Member Admin

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    pull the vac hose off the booster and plug it tight....start the vehicle, and see how it runs/idles....if it's different than with the booster hooked up, it's possible it's bad...next step is to vac-test the booster with a pump, see how it holds suction.

    Outta also note braking, if pulling the booster hose doesn't make a major effort change in the braking, the booster may be questionable...

    damn, with I could remember where I read the booster deal tho....
     
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