#5 plug is fouling out

tonkota

 
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
2,130
Location
Spokane, WA
This has been an on going problem for me. It happened with the 3F-E, and now it's happening with the 2F-E. The head was rebuilt and checked for cracks, I used an OEM head gasket, and it runs great till that plug is clogged up. And it's only the #5 plug. I use NGK plugs.

I have a theory about the little coolant lines that run in the 3F-E intake. I think that there may be a crack there and the coolant is slowly getting burned off.

It may be a head gasket, but I really doubt it. The oil has no water in it, and the coolant has no oil in it.

Should I take the coolant lines from the intake, and spray some carb cleaner down there to see what happens?

Thoughts? I am really lost on this.
 

cahilc

 
Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Messages
1,067
Location
Dry Fork, WV
Jsut spitballing here, but ...

Even compression test across the cylinders ?

KV (resistant) test your number 5 plug wire ? Compare to others ?

Cahil
 

tonkota

 
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
2,130
Location
Spokane, WA
I have not done a compression test, but this 2F short block only has 622 miles on it. I replaced the wires today. The old ones (Bosch) were really loose fitting.

Maybe I'm just paranoid and the rings aren't set yet?
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
59
Retorque the Head. Had the same thing when I put mine together, just mine was low on Cyl. #1. The compression (hot) was (1-6) 100, 120, 140, 140, 135, 140, 145. Now, after the retorque, they are all pretty much 140 to 145! And that's with 188k on the bottom end. A Compression check is a MUST. Spend the $$ at Sears and pick one up. Then, while you are at it, pick up a couple of guage pods and fill them with a Vacuum Guage and a Mechanical Temperature guage. These will save you thousands of $$'s. Now, if only I could get my wobbly rear drums sorted out ...............Good luck!
 

woody

unhelpful spotter
Staff member
Admin
 
 
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Messages
10,593
Location
Toquerville UT
IIRC, the brake booster draw's it's vacuum directly above #5...I recall reading that bad boosters = burned valves on #5/#6....
 

tonkota

 
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
2,130
Location
Spokane, WA
I did re-torque the head after it had been warmed up. Each bolt did turn just a bit.

If the brake booster is bad, would the brakes be tougher to push than normal?

The plug is fouling with "contamination" of some sort. Autolite's web site has a pretty good set of pictures of plugs with different type of problems. Mine looks like #9 and #10.

http://www.autolite.com/tech/PlugTips.pdf

Thanks for the help so far!!
 

woody

unhelpful spotter
Staff member
Admin
 
 
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Messages
10,593
Location
Toquerville UT
pull the vac hose off the booster and plug it tight....start the vehicle, and see how it runs/idles....if it's different than with the booster hooked up, it's possible it's bad...next step is to vac-test the booster with a pump, see how it holds suction.

Outta also note braking, if pulling the booster hose doesn't make a major effort change in the braking, the booster may be questionable...

damn, with I could remember where I read the booster deal tho....
 
Top Bottom