Oh yeah, This could be it too as you replaced spindles.
5 Knuckle Jobs Later... Still Leaking
- Thread starter ARCHIPEEP
- Start date
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I run the RCVs with OEM seals with out issue
- Thread starter
- #23
Yes, new spindles with new brass bushings.
Was gonna try putting the old axles back in and see if I have any issues. Would really hate to find out that the rcvs were bad from the get go. I’m sure it’s been too long to get them to replace them if that was the issue.
Was gonna try putting the old axles back in and see if I have any issues. Would really hate to find out that the rcvs were bad from the get go. I’m sure it’s been too long to get them to replace them if that was the issue.
Inspect the axle shaft seal surface for scratches. A mark that would seem inconsequential will cause a leak. I’ve been running RCV’s for six years and have somehow managed to mar both inner shafts which necessitated their replacement. A new inner shaft from RCV runs $225. I replaced the second one recently.
You have a good idea to measure the diameter of the shafts too. RCV is not beyond making mistakes. I dealt with a rear RCV shaft that came improperly machined with regards to the oil seal land.
You have a good idea to measure the diameter of the shafts too. RCV is not beyond making mistakes. I dealt with a rear RCV shaft that came improperly machined with regards to the oil seal land.
How did you verify that the housing was not bent? It doesn't take much for a bent housing to cause leaks. The bends can be so minor that you can't see them just by looking.
- Thread starter
- #26
I haven't dont anything that would have bent the axle housing. As I said, most of our trips are desert.
I hear ya but people bend housings "not doing anything". You don't need to be jumping the truck or running the truck into a ditch at 50mph to bend a housing. It's not hard to check, especially if you are pulling the knuckles apart.
The RCV Birfs will not go back together backwards.
This. How about the previous owner? unless you have owned the truck since new it could be bent. Like I said, once you get it all broken down see where that inner axle sits (with no seal) in the seal area.
- Thread starter
- #31
I drove it for 2yrs with no problem. Axle housing was not bent by the previous owner.
Just something easy to check off, you are pre greasing the seals? So they don't burn the first time you drive them before they can get lube. Also my 2cents, my rig is full-time and I never have had any issues with marlin seals. Mileages do vary though.
All the 80 knuckles that have ever come into the shop I work at have reused the shim on the top cap, and there are no shims on the bottom. Toyota seems to have done a better job centering 80 series knuckles than the Mini-truck knuckles.
All the 80 knuckles that have ever come into the shop I work at have reused the shim on the top cap, and there are no shims on the bottom. Toyota seems to have done a better job centering 80 series knuckles than the Mini-truck knuckles.
What size shim on top?
Reusing factory shims, whatever thickness they may be. If factory shims cannot be reused, then preload has to be measured to be in spec like any other knuckle using different thicknesses.
IME, shims are for preload only, and there is no need to center the knuckle like one would on a standard toyota knuckle by shimming the bottom and top or by the use of the sst for it.
Thanks, I’m in the don’t know what the factory shim set up was so will just measure to be spec.
when did the problem start? after installing rcv shafts?
Every axle I’ve serviced has had only a single shim on top and always the same thickness. From memory it was .2 mm but not 100% sure.
Found my post from 2014, the top shim is marked 0.20.
I'm going w/ bent axle housing.
Both sides leaking after each knuckle job?
