4Runner CV half-shafts (1 Viewer)

[Matador98]

So, I just bought a 4Runner for my brother Tuesday night. Well, I'm not paying for it, he is paying me back with insurance money since he totaled his car. Anyways, it's a 1995 4WD, Limited, leather, power everything, 3" lift, custom rims, and 33" BFG MTs on it. It is in sweet shape.

I am picking it up Friday when I have the rest of the money, and will drive it all next week. My brother is going to come pick it up the end of next week and participate in SnT with his first 4WD, should be an experience for him.

Anyways, before that can happen, both CV boots are torn and there is no grease. I've been reading a bit online, and people generally recommend to just replace the entire half-shaft because it is easier than just replacing the boot because they come packed with grease already, etc. It sounds like the axle slides out pretty easily once you get the axle nut and c-clip off.

Well, I have never done this, the 60 is straight axled (not that I have ever done a birf either, but hey, give me a break). How hard is it, can I do it, any special tools needed? etc. I'm pretty good working around a car, probably or around there.

Feedback, or help, appreciated.

 

[Cube Dweller]

It's easy. Pull the cover, the c clip, unbolt the 6(IIRC) nuts that hold the inner flange to the drive axle flanges. I always removed the 4 nuts on the top of the upper control arm to seperate the ball joint from the control arm, then drop the knuckle assembly out of the way. Unless you remove the tension/preload off the torsion bars, the upper control arm will try to force the assembly down. So either remove the tension or figure out a way to hold the upper control arm in the up position.

Slide the splined end out of the hub assembly, then pull it off the studs. If he's going to wheel it, there's a decent chance he'll break a CV occasionally. So you may want to replace the studs w/ bolts. This will allow you to just pull the bolts and C clip to replace the CV, without having to deal with the balljoint and control arm mess I described above.

Boots were about $10 each the last time I did it and came w/ grease. Just make sure everything goes back together the way it came out- it was dynamically balanced at the factory with each of the "stars" in the current position. I'd just repack them.

 

[Bradass80]

I did this last year on my wife's 96 and it was easy, however a few tips wiil help you. The diff side of the helaf shaft did not come out or go in easily like I was told they would. You'll need to have a stout prybar to pry between the half shaft and diff to get them apart when removing the old one. When putting the new half shaft in to the diff DO NOT pound on it, I did this and actually mushroomed the outter end of the axle shaft and then the axle nut would not go on. There is a c-clip on the end of the axle shaft, diff side, that makes it a pain to get seated correctly but be patient and work it in slowly. Brad.

 

[Matador98]

Thanks for the tips, guys.

So if I just replace the boots, that would mean the joints are ok? There is little grease on them now, but it hasn't been wheeled by the PO for the last year and a half, but who knows how long the boot have been broken.

So should I be ok just cleaning the joints with solvent (brake cleaner) then, even considering that I don't know the history of the boots at all and just put on new boots?