4L and CD issues in our new 2008 LC (1 Viewer)

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I've fixed knobs like this before. If it is similar, that black metal collar still attached to the shaft belongs in the knob portion. Carefully extract that metal collar, and use two-part epoxy to bond it in the knob in the correct orientation. If there are any gaps or cracks, fill them with epoxy and clamp for 24 hours, then reinstall. This has worked surprisingly well.

I'd call the sales manager of the selling dealer, tell him his tech stripped the knob and ask that they cover the cost to replace it. I've had multiple dealers cover small costs like this in the past. $100 or so isn't worth the headache, hassle, or negative word of mouth advertising. I had one dealer pay for a battery and rear ebrake bellcrank parts on a 100 series I bought from them (that I replaced myself, saving them labor costs).

Alternatively, $100 or so isn't a bad price to get your 4wd system working again.

Nice job on finding the source of the issue.

I'll keep my mouth quiet about what I think about that dealer tech's diagnostic skills.

$52 on eBay:

$57 on eBay:

$107+shipping at Olathe Parts:

Switch - Toyota (84223-60010)​

OEM Toyota Switch For 2008-2011 Toyota Land Cruiser
11
8422360010 - Body: Switch for Toyota: Land Cruiser Image 8422360010 - Body: Switch for Toyota: Land Cruiser Image Placeholder
Switch
84223-60010
Transfer case.
MSRP $130.93
$107.36
ADD TO CART
 
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I've fixed knobs like this before. If it is similar, that black metal collar still attached to the shaft belongs in the knob portion. Carefully extract that metal collar, and use two-part epoxy to bond it in the knob in the correct orientation. If there are any gaps or cracks, fill them with epoxy and clamp for 24 hours, then reinstall. This has worked surprisingly well.

I'd call the sales manager of the selling dealer, tell him his tech stripped the knob and ask that they cover the cost to replace it. I've had multiple dealers cover small costs like this in the past. $100 or so isn't worth the headache, hassle, or negative word of mouth advertising. I had one dealer pay for a battery and rear ebrake bellcrank parts on a 100 series I bought from them (that I replaced myself, saving them labor costs).

Alternatively, $100 or so isn't a bad price to get your 4wd system working again.

Nice job on finding the source of the issue.

I'll keep my mouth quiet about what I think about that dealer tech's diagnostic skills.

$52 on eBay:

$57 on eBay:

$107+shipping at Olathe Parts:

Switch - Toyota (84223-60010)​

OEM Toyota Switch For 2008-2011 Toyota Land Cruiser
11
8422360010 - Body: Switch for Toyota: Land Cruiser Image View attachment 3126284
Switch
84223-60010
Transfer case.
MSRP $130.93
$107.36
ADD TO CART
Thanks, that’s very helpful info about the black sleeve. It does come off so I’ll move forward with getting it back in place with some epoxy.

My husband suggested the epoxy route too, but I like to see if there’s a reasonable replacement cost before I start holding things together with glue. 😉 Looks like the epoxy is worth it in this scenario.

And agree, having that tech putting his hands on the truck was certainly not what we wanted and it’s frustrating that it lead to this issue. Other people were trying to buy the truck out from under us so we just wanted to get what deal we could and close it. Ended up getting them to come down about $2k since they couldn’t figure it out so it’s worked out ok. Definitely don’t want anyone like that touching it again though.
 
Can't add anything tech wise but with my 80 every month on our around the 1st I will engage the center diff mechanically and with the diff lock button. Just a habit I got into as I do not get out as often as I would like.
 
I appreciate all the feedback and help from everyone here. It’s a big relief to have this solved without having to invest a lot of time or $$ in parts. I wanted to make sure to gave an update in case anyone else comes across a similar scenario. So far I haven’t found another thread where a stripped knob was the culprit, but this was a good reminder to start simple in walking through the diagnostic process.

We have our maiden trip in this truck to Red River, NM in a few weeks and now that the 4x4 & CDL are working smoothly we are really excited to get out there and see what this bad boy can do. TBH though we plan to take it pretty easy since it will be the first trip, and any Red River area trail recommendations are much appreciated.

We’ve already picked up an Ironman awning and look forward to continue customizing it. So long as I can convince hubby to keep it…he keeps looking longingly at the GX series since they are much less expensive. We originally intended to buy a cheaper 100 series and build it out ourselves, but when I came across this one it was such a good deal that we had to consider it. I am very happy with it, it’s a HUGE step up from our 2000 4Runner that we’ve owned and loved for years.

So glad to have found this forum, I very much appreciate the wealth of knowledge and community spirit of enthusiasm for these trucks and keeping the comments helpful and positive. Looking forward to learning more and contributing where we can.

Thanks y’all!
 
I appreciate all the feedback and help from everyone here. It’s a big relief to have this solved without having to invest a lot of time or $$ in parts. I wanted to make sure to gave an update in case anyone else comes across a similar scenario. So far I haven’t found another thread where a stripped knob was the culprit, but this was a good reminder to start simple in walking through the diagnostic process.

We have our maiden trip in this truck to Red River, NM in a few weeks and now that the 4x4 & CDL are working smoothly we are really excited to get out there and see what this bad boy can do. TBH though we plan to take it pretty easy since it will be the first trip, and any Red River area trail recommendations are much appreciated.

We’ve already picked up an Ironman awning and look forward to continue customizing it. So long as I can convince hubby to keep it…he keeps looking longingly at the GX series since they are much less expensive. We originally intended to buy a cheaper 100 series and build it out ourselves, but when I came across this one it was such a good deal that we had to consider it. I am very happy with it, it’s a HUGE step up from our 2000 4Runner that we’ve owned and loved for years.

So glad to have found this forum, I very much appreciate the wealth of knowledge and community spirit of enthusiasm for these trucks and keeping the comments helpful and positive. Looking forward to learning more and contributing where we can.

Thanks y’all!
I'm glad that the solution was:
a) discovered, and
b) not terribly difficult or expensive to deal with

Enjoy your journey(s)
 
Check out the new brackets @nakman at Gamiviti recently released for putting an awning on the stock rack. He does brilliant work, is a super nice guy and is active on the forum.

 
@CharlieS hey thanks for the props! And coincidentally, my 4WD knob is totally stripped also. I've just been pulling it off then twisting the little white post with my hand, but it's next to impossible to do with cold fingers. Might have to chase down one of those links above, thanks again!
 
Thought I’d give an update with what we’ve found…

Main culprit of our problem ended up being quite small: the knob for the 4WD switch is stripped. 🤦🏼‍♀️

Hubby suspects the Chevy techs did this since he had been able to get it to engage occasionally before they touched it. He was taking a closer look and realized the knob pulled off quite easily and he was able to use his fingers to push and twist the little rod inside the knob to engage 4L. It now engages every time (when you twist the little rod), but I haven’t had any luck finding a replacement knob without buying the whole switch for over $100.

Once we engaged/disengaged 4L a few times the CD button also started working. Guess they just needed some loosening up and very grateful we didn’t start buying and swapping any parts before we realized what was going on with the switch.

Anyone have ideas for where we could buy a new knob (aside from a junkyard)? I haven’t yet found a part number aside from buying the whole switch.

View attachment 3126204

My 2008 LC had a Transfer Position Switch (Toyota Part No. 84223-60010) that was spinning freely and not engaging correctly. This caused lots of trouble when trying to switch between 4Hi and 4Lo. I ended up ordering one for under $100 delivered. Highly recommended for the peace of mind.


1664733646746.png
 
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Glad your truck is fixed. Your new ride looks absolutely fantastic.
 

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