4BD2T into an '89 FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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It does feel nice, it's been a long time coming. I dropped the turbo in tonight and everything looked good for clearance I did change the brake booster from the stock 62 to a narrower HJ60 brake booster, which helped get the clearance I needed. Next I tried to install the A/C pump and this time I ran into some clearance issues with the PS box. I remember reading some people modified the bracket, others changed to a different pump, has anyone shimmed the gearbox away from the frame to get clearance? I'm guessing 3/8th's inch plate would work. If anyone has any ideas please feel free to share.

Thanks
Scott



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I modified the cast iron AC compressor/Alternator mount, and shimmed the steering box on my 4BD2 swap into a 60. I placed a 1/2" thick shim. By machining the bracket and re-drilling a couple of holes, I gained about 1.5". Again, a fairly easy modification, but I do have a mill.

I changed the compressor to one from a 1998 Isuzu NPR with a gas engine, as it was cheap, common, and had a rear manifold that could be easily adapted to fit the balance of the stock 60 ac system. The newer ac compressor was also designed to run on 134, which is good. I had to trim an ear a little to fit, but minor issue.

My ac works great!

Not sure what page, but how I did it and pictures are in my build thread below.


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Doug, thanks for the pictures. I'm sure it was your thread I was looking at when I saw the bracket was modified, thanks for all that info. I don't have access to a mill, so it could be a little challenging to get the bracket modified, but I think I'll start there. I was thinking a 3/8th" shim would give me enough clearance without having to modify the bracket, but probably better to do both if possible.
 
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Doug, one more question. I need to remote mount the oil filter and I'd like to use the factory oil filter like you did. The cruiser came with a block already mounted to the engine block with two ports. The remote side uses a much smaller oil filter than factory which I'd rather not use a smaller filter. I read in your thread you milled your own remote block, did you ever find an aftermarket remote oil filter kit? Did you ever mill more than one that you'd like to sell?
 
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The shim is no problem, except for finding longer bolts. I found grade 9.8 metric bolts and nuts that fit, but grade 8 standard would work also.

Modifying the ac/alt bracket without a mil will be difficult, but maybe not impossible. Or do you have a machine shop nearby? Maybe an hour of time to do it. Or maybe make a new bracket? That's what flcruiser did on his.

I made my oil filter relocation parts, and it's fairly easy. I did not make any extra parts. Mill is not needed, but a drill press makes it easier than a hand drill.

I used the stock Isuzu filter head and mounted it to the fire seam with an aluminum angle bracket - look at my thread for exact location.

The engine block plate was made from 3/4" aluminum plate. Cut to fit, drill mounting holes, and drill and tap oil line fitting holes. Use the gasket as a template to scribe the holes to mount and fittings. The taps sizes are standard pipe threads and I used AN fittings and SS lines. I beveled the back side of the plate to help with oil flow - see pictures

For the filter head, I used a 2" thick block of aluminum drilled on my drill press and tapped for the fittings. I used long bolts and stock gasket to bolt the head to the block and then to the bracket on the fire wall.

You need a couple of adapter to braze or weld to the Isuzu oil line fittings on the block and to connect to the injection pumps oil line - see pictures in my thread.

I used a 120 degree fitting out of the filter head to the block with #12 SS line and fittings. The others were #8, except for the IP oil supply line which is #4

It's really not to hard to make. But, there is a guy on 4BTswaps Isuzu section who was making a kit as I recall.

Hope this helps
 
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The shim is no problem and really helps with room. It caused no steering issues at all. The hardest part if finding longer bolts. I used metric grade 9.8 bolts and nuts, but grade 8 standard hardware would work also and is easier to find.

The block

See page 6 post #113 of my thread for oil relocation pictures.
 
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So doing some research I found a post of 4BTSwaps.com with some good information, here is the link, post 29 - 32 4BD2 Freshen Up, with detailed info. From that thread I have determined that I have the remote filter kit that Dustin Alamaras sold which was to use a Cummins filter. I have a couple questions about the Cummins filter, one is how is the flow compared to the Isuzu filter? and the other question is was there ever a full flow/bypass filter all in one for the Cummins? I don't mind using his kit, just want to make sure it's going to be correct for this application.
 
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Not sure, that side is bolted on the block. All I see is the barbed fittings and the 4 bolts that hold it on. I'd like to change the barbed fittings to some AN fittings, but I haven't gotten to that point yet.
 
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Yeah that's all he sent me. I didn't think I got everything. Were there lines for turbo feed and IP?
 
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No, no extra lines, but there was a remote block and mount that came with mine. The remote block works with a Cummings filter, so I think I'm going to build a block that utilizes the Isuzu filter.
 
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Just in case someone was wondering I'm still working this project, but got sidetracked on the Troopy with a 5-speed conversion. Will be back to this project shortly.
 
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Okay, I'm back. I finally modified the A/C bracket to make the pump rotate away from the PS gear box. I also made a 1/2" spacer/plate for the gearbox to move it away from the A/C pump. By doing these two things I finally have the clearance needed for the A/C pump. I need to replace the pumps outer pulley bearing, but besides that I believe I'm done with the A/C for now. For the next step I'll be moving onto the oil filter relocation. Pictures coming
:cheers:

BTW, I used an angle grinder with some 36grit sandpaper on a hard plastic backer plate. Worked pretty well.
 
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No, no extra lines, but there was a remote block and mount that came with mine. The remote block works with a Cummings filter, so I think I'm going to build a block that utilizes the Isuzu filter.

I used the stock Isuzu filter head for my remote mount filter.

There are 2 sizes of the Isuzu filter - long and short. I use the short on my 60.

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I used the stock Isuzu filter head for my remote mount filter.

There are 2 sizes of the Isuzu filter - long and short. I use the short on my 60.

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Thanks for the pictures, I was just going to your thread to find them. So even with the short filter there wasn't room in the stock location? It looked like if it was short enough the driveshaft wouldn't hit it.
 
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No room for any filter in stock location on all the 4BD1/2 swaps I've seen. The stock filter lands right over the front u-joint.

The short filter helps, but even with a 3" lift, raised bump stops, and careful driving, I had the u-joint contact the filter on my first outing.

It's easy to relocate the filter, it's all Isuzu and it works well.
 
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No room for any filter in stock location on all the 4BD1/2 swaps I've seen. The stock filter lands right over the front u-joint.

The short filter helps, but even with a 3" lift, raised bump stops, and careful driving, I had the u-joint contact the filter on my first outing.

It's easy to relocate the filter, it's all Isuzu and it works well.

Sounds good, I'll start looking tonight at what it'll take. I have the block side already, so I just need the filter side and the connections to the block and the small pipe to the pump/timing cover.

Thanks again
Scott
 
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So I'm missing the tube that feeds the oil filter so I don't have the flange to modify. I'll have to either fabricate a flange, or buy the tube. Where is the best place to purchase Isuzu parts?
 

cruisermatt

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So, even though you re-did your crossmember mounts the front face of your transmission is still in the stock location,right?
 

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