48 hour emotional roller coaster. First time 80 owner. New to Forum. (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for the feedback on the filter. I got all excited and ordered the entire HPC silicone heater hose kit and read here that they are prone to fail so quickly canceled my order. Off to the dealer to order them individually. Learning from others mistakes....I don't need anymore setbacks.
I did my PHH in silicone and I kinda regret it after seeing all the trouble people had with that type of hose, but I kinda think that one is short enough and most of it is connected to steel pipes(I kept mine because it was fine and I had a lot of other fish to fry when it came to doing my head job) that it probably couldn't weep too much coolant out of the 1/2" or so that is actually exposed.

That said, I wish I would have just went with the Gates Green Stripe for everything.
 
What is wrong with Toyota heater hoses? They are not that expensive and last what, 15+yrs?

Cheers
They are more expensive that the Gates, that much I am sure of. That said, sure, why not? Might as well get full sets of those sardine can clamps too while you are in there. ;)

This is an after market motor and we are using after market parts here, or didn't you get the memo? :hillbilly:

I consider this the test buggy for a future that I have not quite come to terms with. I think it's a bold move, Cotton, but we'll see how it pays off for him. :rainbow:
 
God I love how salty everyone is over this Autozone build lol. All you old school fellas gave me such a complex that I’m buying OEM from Dubai or getting used stuff from Japan & Russia. It’s a sickness really. But in reality it’s his rig and as long as it works who cares. Clearly he is building it for use and not resale.
 
It really cracks me up to hear Autozone Build. Autozone does not "build" anything. This was built by a reputable builder in Texas. It is a factory Toyota, block, crank, rods, head and cams. Clevite bearings and Silv o lite cast pistons. Autozone is a parts broker/distributor(with deep pockets and they stand behind the products they sell). I love the rainbow flag at the end. That is really classy.

I was able to order all new hoses from Toyota. Most of the straight hoses called for them to cut to length some bulk stock while all of the molded ones were available in the local warehouse. Yes if you calculate the cost by the foot, it seems like a rip off but time vs money is a factor. My PHH tube was offset about 2 inches from the port in the head. I am thinking the prior owner bent it to install the rubber line. The entire Kit with steel line was available from Toyota so i just ordered it all. Trying to get some time off of work to finish this thing up and move on to the fun stuff I have planned. I have other customers waiting for their builds and the Charger needs some winter work too. Cant wait to get this thing in the belly of the "bathtub curve".
 
I am just giving you a hard time! I think you are doing a great job on this and I am sure it will turn out just fine. It's kind of running joke here when it comes to what we call Mud OCD which leads us to have these probably unfounded opinions on OEM vs. aftermarket parts.
 
It really cracks me up to hear Autozone Build. Autozone does not "build" anything. This was built by a reputable builder in Texas. It is a factory Toyota, block, crank, rods, head and cams. Clevite bearings and Silv o lite cast pistons. Autozone is a parts broker/distributor(with deep pockets and they stand behind the products they sell). I love the rainbow flag at the end. That is really classy.

I was able to order all new hoses from Toyota. Most of the straight hoses called for them to cut to length some bulk stock while all of the molded ones were available in the local warehouse. Yes if you calculate the cost by the foot, it seems like a rip off but time vs money is a factor. My PHH tube was offset about 2 inches from the port in the head. I am thinking the prior owner bent it to install the rubber line. The entire Kit with steel line was available from Toyota so i just ordered it all. Trying to get some time off of work to finish this thing up and move on to the fun stuff I have planned. I have other customers waiting for their builds and the Charger needs some winter work too. Cant wait to get this thing in the belly of the "bathtub curve".
We all understand that Autozone is a broker/distributor. The problem is most everything they sale is cheep junk. Look at my avatar, I love my 80 but I am a ford guy from way back and I won't put Autozone parts on my fords either.
You must know this if you work on cars all the time. By you posts you look like a well read Mechanic.
Please don't get me wrong, I hope this works out well for you. Autozone dose stand behind there products and that short block sure looks pretty, but that's a hole lot of labor to gamble on.
Keep us posted and I hope that thing purrs
 
Not to go OT but I've been part time at AZ for about 2.5 years and honestly the people who buy a lot of parts other than brakes and batteries where I live are ones who aren't exactly in the income spectrum to afford OEM all the time.
I have a feeling AZ works into their overhead a huge amount for warrantied parts, because we send back A LOT of returned, damanged inventory because it's almost all cheaply made chinese/ sweatshop asian quality.
But, if you are in a pinch and have to get down the road cos you're 3 hours from home, that duralast belt will make it. Whether you want to run it in a vehicle that you beat the piss out of...well that is up to you. I have no experience with our motors because i've never sold one- around here most people will just find a parts vehicle or risk a junkyard motor because they are 1/4 the price of the AZ motor.

OP- sorry to hijack.
 
@CJ Fisher your build up is looking good.

I can see you've gotten various feedback about the source of your engine. It's been pretty well documented that aftermarket gaskets don't hold up, unless they are MLS. Other gaskets and seals like main seals I also have not had good experiences with after market sources. I don't know what was used in your rebuild but the head gasket would be my main point of concern.

I spent a ton of money, double what you got your long block for on a full rebuild using OEM parts in 95% of the places. The ONE SINGLE THING I relied on a shop to do, they failed at and the motor failed at 60K miles due to their negligence. That was the valve job, they didn't check the valve springs. They were well below spec I learned later and the valves were not seating with enough pressure to keep them cool so they overheated and wore away and I had 0 compression in a cylinder after just 60K miles. All of the valves, both intake and exhaust were aftermarket and had credit card thick ridges in them where they wore away against the hardened seat in the head. The exhaust valve guides were way beyond spec as well and needed to be replaced. It cost another $2,000 to do the valve job the second time with all OEM parts and labor at a better machine shop.

I'll be really interested to hear back in three years and see how this engine has held up, please keep us updated. It wasn't fun to go back to my build post and give the details of the failure, but it was good information and I learned a lesson from the experience.

If the cams were not reground or replaced during the rebuild you should not have to worry about zinc content in the oil, the surface hardness on the cams will already be in place. It doesn't hurt of course but if you burn any it can be hard on your cat converter.
 
well it has been a long journey but she is in and purring like a kitten. I cant seem to upload the startup video from my phone. I had a fit trying to get the timing right last night but it turns out that the paper clip i was using was not making good contact. I made a jumper out of copper wire and got it right this morning. I've been through 3 heat cycles and one test drive for about 7 miles. All good so far! No leaks and smooth as a sewing machine. The one picture is how i make shifted a crank pulley holder. I had one miss calculation when i pulled the engine out over the passenger fender. I did that without the pans or flywheel on so because of my lift setup, I had to move my tool boxes and remove the radiator header bracket and just squeaked over the condenser for the AC. Now it is on to break in and start ordering fun parts.
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should have gotten 3FE - rock-solid drivetrain but little slow. I've 91 with 150k miles available for sale :)
I've looked at 3 of them that crapped oil everywhere and died going up a moderate mountain pass.. 2 of them had been regularly serviced at Toyota since the late 90's. Point being that all engines out there have a few turds in the lot. It is an unavoidable problem with mass production.
 
for all of you Toyota OEM parts guys. Guess where my only leak is? Brand new PHH factory clamp. Yep. BOO its an easy fix but my only failure point so far. Dare i try to tighten it? Its the one that looks like a cotter pin with a band. I think i will replace it.
 
for all of you Toyota OEM parts guys. Guess where my only leak is? Brand new PHH factory clamp. Yep. BOO its an easy fix but my only failure point so far. Dare i try to tighten it? Its the one that looks like a cotter pin with a band. I think i will replace it.

I was under the impression that the cotter pin clamps were only installed at the factory. How did you tighten it?
 
Nice work!

You obviously have significant skill to invest in your rebuilds.

I do personally prefer OEM when available, but that doesn't mean it is the best or the only good parts, just my preference and typically easiest for me to source, In my initial post I was interested in the cost Delta between OE and non for future reference.

Great to hear all is working well, with your abilities applied to the fun aspects of the build it should be an exciting one to watch!
 
I was under the impression that the cotter pin clamps were only installed at the factory. How did you tighten it?

Having just read through the thread... He bought the assembly with the pipe and hoses pre-assembled as a unit. So a Toyota factory (or at least vendor) assembled part failed. Irony is a strong force in the universe.

Jason
 
for all of you Toyota OEM parts guys. Guess where my only leak is? Brand new PHH factory clamp. Yep. BOO its an easy fix but my only failure point so far. Dare i try to tighten it? Its the one that looks like a cotter pin with a band. I think i will replace it.
Those were the sardine can clamps I was talking about. I would use a constant torque clamp.
 
i removed the sardine and replaced with screw type clamps. To use constant torque i would need to separate the hose from the steel line. Not a good critical path for me. It has stopped now. 100 miles on engine now and counting. New tires on. bumpers and lift coming in tomorrow. Thanks to Black Dog Mobility for the sponsorship with ARB!
 
We would all like to know how that motor is running ????
 

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