48 hour emotional roller coaster. First time 80 owner. New to Forum. (1 Viewer)

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While you have clean, clear access to the PS pump, clean it up nice, stake the hole in the back, then fill with epoxy (JB Weld). This is to prevent the plug in the back from blowing out and rendering it undriveable due to loss of PS oil.


Learn new stuff on here every day. I'll search this topic up and see how to do it, as I am in the process of pulling my engine as well. Thanks for the pointer.
 
While you have clean, clear access to the PS pump, clean it up nice, stake the hole in the back, then fill with epoxy (JB Weld). This is to prevent the plug in the back from blowing out and rendering it undriveable due to loss of PS oil.
This happened to me.
 
And, hope I'm not too late, don't forget to replace the rubber PHH.
Looks like the previous owner bypassed the steel line with a hose. Hmm. Anyone offer a silicone hose kit for these rigs or do you just recommend a high quality rubber hose?
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most of us bypass the steel line. i wouldnt worry with it. i did the longer route and went around the brake booster with my hose.
 
Fix it right while you have the chance, search for PHH (pesky heater hose). BTW very nice work! Too bad you got scammed with the engine, but I think you're taking the right approach. You'll love the truck once you get it going. You might check out the wiring harness and anything else under the hood before you put the engine back in just to ensure no other short cuts have been taken and it's all accessible.
Again, nice work.
Ned
 
I missed if it was diesel or not, if it is diesel the pull the rod ends. Normally they do not score the crank if caught early enough. I did mine at around 190,000 miles, put a set of std shells in and now showing around 270,000 with no issues.

If it is a petrol motor then the diesel swap is not a five minute job and will certainly be costly, FWIW I see regular 27- 28 MPG as a daily driver with the diesel, you will never see even close to that with a petrol version.

regards

Dave
 
let me guess, you passed up 143 super clean 80s that didnt have lockers only to buy a locked truck with a rod knock...
Wuhl yeah.
 
i would recommend to park next to a wall. if i had to guess its noisier when its cold so do this when its cold if possible just so the noise is more audible.
start it, listen for your noise and now just gently add load to the steering pump by slowly turning the steering wheel. if its a pump gear or pump issue it should be significantly affected by the pump being loaded and unloaded.
 
Getting it back together slowly. Cleaning everything up is taking a lot of time. Replacing all of the vacuum hoses while i have access. I should have it ready to go back in the truck by the end of the day today. I primed the oil system using a power bleeder. The engine had been spun up and oil pressure checked by the builder but not knowing how long it has sat worried me. I will prime again using the starter when it is back in the truck. Using some high zinc oil for startup and break in. I cant quite convert the ohms to a definitive pressure but at least i know fresh oil has been pushed through the system.

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so maybe someone else can answer this since you are working on your truck. but you have the engine filled with oil and you hooked up a manually activated power bleeder with some hydraulic connections and are manually sucking oil through the engine? and then you are going to leave all of the plugs out of the engine (not just the leads i guess off the top of the plugs) and the you are going to crank the starter a couple times for 15 seconds or so to do the same?

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i am pumping oil through the engine not sucking. and then yes i will crank the engine with the plugs out and distributor unplugged until i get positive oil pressure. Was thinking about a manual oil pressure gauge rather than the factory one as a temporary. Im not at all sure if any of this is necessary. I always primed the oil on my V8's with the distributor out where you have direct access to the oil pump. So i poured 2 quarts directly over the cams and lifters, pumped 2 quarts through the oil filter pressure side and topped the engine off. It makes me feel better about the startup. Had to cut firewood this morning now back in the shop.
 
i am pumping oil through the engine not sucking. and then yes i will crank the engine with the plugs out and distributor unplugged until i get positive oil pressure. Was thinking about a manual oil pressure gauge rather than the factory one as a temporary. Im not at all sure if any of this is necessary. I always primed the oil on my V8's with the distributor out where you have direct access to the oil pump. So i poured 2 quarts directly over the cams and lifters, pumped 2 quarts through the oil filter pressure side and topped the engine off. It makes me feel better about the startup. Had to cut firewood this morning now back in the shop.
thanks. what was the multimeter measuring please? the resistance of some electrical circuit in the engine? always happy to learn something if i can...
 
I was measuring the resistance of the oil pressure sensor to check to see if the pressure increased with the oil being pumped.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the filter. I got all excited and ordered the entire HPC silicone heater hose kit and read here that they are prone to fail so quickly canceled my order. Off to the dealer to order them individually. Learning from others mistakes....I don't need anymore setbacks.
 

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