436,000 mi Compression Test (2 Viewers)

[landtoy80]

Compression Results 436,000 mi


Dry - Wet
#1 135 - 145
#2 145 - 160
#3 140 - 160
#4 145 - 150
#5 150 - 170
#6 155 - 170

Per FSM
New 171 psi or better
Min 128 psi
Max between cylinders 14 psi or less

From a test on 6/2006 292,000 Dry- Wet
#1 155 - 165
#2 155 - 165
#3 155 - 165
#4 155 - 170
#5 160 - 180
#6 165 - 180

Loss of PSI in 144,000 miles of driving from 292,000mi to 436,000 mi Dry- Wet
#1 20 - 20
#2 10 - 5
#3 15 - 5
#4 10 - 10
#5 10 - 10
#6 10 - 10

 

[eric90503]

Very nice across the board! Are you the original owner and what is your PM schedule like? I have yet to do this on my rig. Congrats!

 

[landtoy80]

Bought it at 208,000 mi. 3rd or 4th owner from what I could find out.
Tried several oils when I got it but found it liked Rotella T (now T6) 5w40 and Toyota filters with a 9000 mi average oil change interval for most of the time I have had it. Do some Seafoam in oil and intake every so often. Mostly use Toyota FI cleaner and BG44K in the gas. Run Shell and Conoco gas as much as possible. Change coolant with Toyota Red or other red coolant. I have not replace head gasket, no idea if the PO did.

 

[BullElk]

Way to go Landtoy!....but keep your eyes peeled, I'm creeping up on ya.

 

[inkpot]

Drive on!

 

[Stylo07]

Great info! Keep at it! There's still life...

 

[packetstormin]

What are your thoughts on 1 and 4 ?

 

[1973Guppie]

those are some amazing #'s for that many miles........

 

[excessive]

did you do it w/ the engine warm or cold? did you hold the throttle open? just wondering...

 

[landtoy80]

Did it per the FSM. Hot motor, open throttle with foot on accelerator while peeking under hood to see gauge.
Didn't know how to hook up my remote starter and didn't want to let the motor cool down while trying to figure how to hook it up. Still not sure how to hook it up. I got the starter to spin but not in engage.

 

[landcruiser80]

Not bad at all.

 

[SWUtah]

Thanks for the info. Amazing! Vehicles!!

 

[turbophil]

We rarely put much stock in a compression test. The don't usually tell much of the story and the results vary wildly! Grab a leak down tester. Doesn't take that much more time to do and will tell you a lot (how much and where the leakage is coming from etc) and the the results are much more indicative of engine health...

$0.02...

-Phil

 

[1973Guppie]

We rarely put much stock in a compression test. The don't usually tell much of the story and the results vary wildly! Grab a leak down tester. Doesn't take that much more time to do and will tell you a lot (how much and where the leakage is coming from etc) and the the results are much more indicative of engine health...

$0.02...

-Phil

this does not make sense? a leak down tester is used after a compression test to gain more information as to WHY a particular cylinder is losing compression?.....

 

[turbophil]

this does not make sense? a leak down tester is used after a compression test to gain more information as to WHY a particular cylinder is losing compression?.....

Perhaps.... I'd take the position that short of just telling me that a cylinder is totally dead, I don't get much any info out of a compression tester. The results vary so wildly based on a number of variables, that a compression tester is a pretty useless and unused tool in the shop. If you want to know the engine health, a leak down test will tell you if there's blow-by past the rings indicating poor/worn gap, scored walls, bad ring tension, leaky valves and so forth. If you don't know that information, then the PSI derived from a compression test is useless info in absolute terms, IMO. I don't trust that test on relative terms either. Seen it vary too much. On one comp tester on one day, the number might be 150spi. How do you know if 150psi is acceptable without knowing if you were leaking compression someplace? Maybe that tester should have been 180? Again, you don't know without knowing if there's leakage someplace. I've seen comp testers give terrible results before but the leakdown was fine. Put it on the dyno and the power was fine. Imagine if a motor build was performed based on a comp test?

It doesn't really do a lot of good to compare results of a compression test to someone elses on google or even to a previously performed test, IMO. Too many variables. On the other hand, leak down is pretty consistent....

I have a compression tester someplace in the shop. I'm almost sure of it.lol

On the other hand, the leak down tester is in the top right drawer. Use it frequently to determine race motor health.

Hope that helps to explain further.

Phil

 

[dogfishlake]

Very cool information. I never thought about recording the test over the years. That's a pretty strong thumbs up for Rotella T6. I've been thinking about using it anyway. I appreciate the post Landtoy

 

[turbophil]

If you want to get real fancy, on our sealed dry sump motors, we data log crank case vacuum. Then we can measure cylinder wall and ring health much more scientifically... Doubt anyone in 80 land will seal the motor convert to drysump (I know I won't), but you can get the idea

-Phil

 

[LINUS]

If you want to get real fancy, on our sealed dry sump motors, we data log crank case vacuum. Then we can measure cylinder wall and ring health much more scientifically... Doubt anyone in 80 land will seal the motor convert to drysump (I know I won't), but you can get the idea

-Phil

It's nice you know all this fancy stuff, but the bottom line is a simple compression test still gives the quick & dirty of the general health - sure, if one cyl was coming up dead, then go leakdown to diagnose for repairs.

But when you get these results per FSM, shows plenty to those of us who are completely content to stay with sparkplugs - we can do 2 full rebuilds & drink fancy beer for the cost of a 6BT swap!

Landtoy - thanks for posting, shows what basic maint can still do towards providing a no-brainer, twist key/no problems 1FZ owner experience.

 

[BullElk]

I always heard the older more experienced guys tell me the worst thing for an engine, motor, etc. is to not use it. Other than the few exceptions, the more regularly used the longer it will last.

I know that quite a few of the LC/LX owners here do not use their vehicles as daily drivers. Could it be that the non-DD 80s and 100s have more negative issues than DDers? It would not surprise me if that was true. What say you?

 

[Kernal]

Landtoy80: it would be interesting to know how the oil consumption has changed over those miles while using the same oil brand/viscosity. Has the head gasket been replaced?