One helluva picture BK- I remember that day like it was yesterday!!!!!!
40 Help: Now the 2nd Life's Story (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter afgman786
- Start date
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Put a good sway bar on it and be done, do not take it off. I have one on the back of my race car and it stays on all the time, does not limit flex but makes it more stable and predicable. Use rod ends instead of bushings and it will not bind. Geometry is important.
Looks like we could use a few pics of your
setup, Rob.
Looks good but methinks someone is gonna hit their mellon pretty hard. Should they be set further into the truck?
That's how they are designed to set.
afgman786
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #69
Looking for some advice fellas..
So the side markers work but headlights do not. I get about 10volts to the side marker and maybe 2 to the connection for headlights... do I just need to clean them? Also see the horn piggyback off the same harness and that doesn't work. Would testing volts to that be having someone push the button while I test the connection on the horn for volts?
Also rear blinker turns on but will not flash. Is that a relay issue I'm assuming?
So the side markers work but headlights do not. I get about 10volts to the side marker and maybe 2 to the connection for headlights... do I just need to clean them? Also see the horn piggyback off the same harness and that doesn't work. Would testing volts to that be having someone push the button while I test the connection on the horn for volts?
Also rear blinker turns on but will not flash. Is that a relay issue I'm assuming?
Grounds, grounds, and more grounds. Clean them, scrape them, lightly coat with dielectric grease, reassemble. That will solve so many electric issues.
Can't remember the rears, but I think the front (rectangular 3-way models) have each bulb grounded via a wire inside the housing. Just remove the lens to access it all.
Test the horn by jumping it from the battery to make sure it even works before tracing the issue with it.
Can't remember the rears, but I think the front (rectangular 3-way models) have each bulb grounded via a wire inside the housing. Just remove the lens to access it all.
Test the horn by jumping it from the battery to make sure it even works before tracing the issue with it.
I 2nd, 3rd and 4th the grounds suggestion. Also, test your battery voltage... if it is too low, then the there is not enough juice to make the turn signal flasher "flash".
afgman786
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- Thread starter
- #72
So as far as ground for horn, it is grounded to the same spot and marker lights which turn on and ground is strong. Headlights, I had the switch to the on position and was getting ~8.3 on ohms meter (set to 20k) having the hot in where hot comes, ground in to where ground is on the harness not on the body.
Passenger side headlight is getting no volts. Driver side headlight is getting ~2.5v on harness side, wire directly is getting around 5v which is still low...
@Stumpalama battery is reading 12.3v
Is it a dumb idea to try and open the loom up and just splice a wire into the wire running to the parking lights to run the headlights as well? Or should I chase the wire that is meant for headlights and see where it is reading 10v and go from there.
You should find the problem before splicing.
Just for clarification, you were getting 8.3v on the VOLTMETER, not OHMETER.
Did I give you a headlight switch? It could be in the switch. The connections and interior might need a cleaning/sanding.
For the headlights, you Need to check voltage into the switch and voltage out at the switch, or ohms between connections at the switch, though voltage is easier to do. Remove the switch from the dash, pull it down where you can get the voltmeter probes into the back of the connector. Check voltage into the switch and confirm 12v. If not 12v, your problem lies before the switch.
If 12v there, then check voltage out whith switch on. If 12v present at plug out, your problem is further towards the lights.
If 12v there, then check voltage out whith switch on. If 12v present at plug out, your problem is further towards the lights.
You DO have an FSM or Haynes manual, don't you? 
afgman786
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- Thread starter
- #76
Digital FSM... My cousin forgot to give me the paper copy. I found paperback Haynes manuals online for pretty cheap, was actually going to ask about that as well to see which I should spend my money on.You DO have an FSM or Haynes manual, don't you?
I checked voltage again on passenger, getting around 11v now... driver sitting at around 6v.
No I meant ohms. My meter had options from 2M down to 200, I had it on 20k when I checked. This time had it on 2m and the ohms reading was .823 on both sides. I used the ohms to make sure the ground was good.
Here is a picture of both sides where I got the above volt readings.
The hand brake is a piece of work. Works completely different than most. Mine required a rebuild. Kit is about $200 bucks and 2 hrs labor
...just not at night.
