I am going to regear, however since I am running 35's and going to be towing an off-road trailer. I was wondering if I should do 5:29's over 4:88.
Comments.
Thanks!
Comments.
Thanks!
4:88 or 5:29 on 35's towing 1200 trailer? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter eurorom
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You will have people say 5.29 might shear off due to the lack of extra metal. A lot of people say you will be fine with 4.88. I have looked at doing gears as well but I am also thinking of doing the high/low gears in the transfer case too. The transfer case gears will give you a 4.56 gear if you stay with stock gears, 4.56 would give you a 5.0 gear ratio 4.88 would give you a 5.36 essentially. These number are based off the high side only, low side would have no impact on your towing as you would use that only when crawling and those are different gears as well.
These numbers are all on the assumption you do the overdrive reduction gears for the transfer case.
Transfer case gear
These numbers are all on the assumption you do the overdrive reduction gears for the transfer case.
Transfer case gear
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- #4
So would you say transfer case gears first and if needed differential gears @4:56 which would be stronger to tow?
4.88s just left me wishing that I had 5.29 and I don’t tow anything. I’d go with the deepest gearing available. Also I wouldn’t worry about sheering a pinion. Our pinions are small in comparison to a 14 bolt…. but it’s a 1,200 lb trailer. It’ll be fine
Transfer case gears are cheaper than doing the 3rds, install kits are over $1000 for 3rd then the labor to have them installed.
My plan is to find a transfer case install gears and then put the newish transfer case, all so I do not have any down time.
What size tires are you running and you are sitting at some decent elevation there in Montana. I would go with something deeper too.
I run a 34ish. I spent my whole drive down to moab wishing the 80 had 5.29s. To stay in the power band going up hills, it had to be screaming going 65 in 3rd or I had to be going like 75-80mph to keep the over drive on and sometimes the hills were a little to big
I’m eventually going to do the 10% underdrive. My friend has 5.29s and the 10% underdrive, it seems like the perfect gearing for 37s.
I’m eventually going to do the 10% underdrive. My friend has 5.29s and the 10% underdrive, it seems like the perfect gearing for 37s.
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- #9
Are there any links to purchase the gear kit plus gaskets for transfer case? Anything else I am going to need??? I want to try this!!!
Plus do you have any recommendations for the 3rd members on gears after transfer case regear?
Plus do you have any recommendations for the 3rd members on gears after transfer case regear?
Cruiser Outfitters will have everything you will need.
Nitro gears are some of the top gears out there.
Sumo Gear Transfer case gears
Rebuild Kit
Best to call Cruiser Outfitters give them the VIN of your vehicle and they will make sure the above kits will work with your rig.
I run a 34ish. I spent my whole drive down to moab wishing the 80 had 5.29s. To stay in the power band going up hills, it had to be screaming going 65 in 3rd or I had to be going like 75-80mph to keep the over drive on and sometimes the hills were a little to big
I’m eventually going to do the 10% underdrive. My friend has 5.29s and the 10% underdrive, it seems like the perfect gearing for 37s.
Are you from Montana? The elevation could make a big difference in your engine performance, 5.29 would actually benefit you a little more to make up for that lack of performance.
- Thread starter
- #14
Yes this is what I am thinking..
Anybody knows what my final ratio might be if I do this?
Anybody knows what my final ratio might be if I do this?
I’m not from Montana but I live here. And I’m finding that 4.88s are not that useful for most people. If I were to do it again. I would do 5.29s and add a 10% underdrive if I did 37s.
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Personally I went 4.88 and other than from a dead stop didn’t really notice much difference on the HWY other than the shift points. No gear change is going to blow your skirt up IMHO, that’s what forced induction is for.
Ask a question and get every possible answer. Definitely start with transfer case gears, high range under drive and low range 3.12 gears at the same time. All you can do in the Transfer case is now done and nothing left to the imagination.
4.88’s are technically over gearing for 35’s already and would probably accomplish your intended purpose alone so transfer case gears plus 4.88’s maybe too much if you cruise the highway a lot. 4.56’s plus under drive gears as you alluded to already seems like a reasonable solution.
Remember that the 1FZ revs quite freely so second gear can be used to hold 55mph, even 60, on those long, steep grades. Torque peaks at 3,200 and the HP just gets bigger from there on up the tach. 212HP can do a lot of work but we must be willing to rev high enough to access the available power. Gear down too low and you will be in no no man’s land where the stock 1fz still can’t hold third up hill towing and dropping down to second means 45-50mph instead of 55-60mph.
Under drive gears plus 5.29 only for 37’s+ and rock crawling because second gear and 4,000-4,500rpm up hill on the highway all day long.
I’ve been running 37’s and 4.88’s with the stock 1:1 high range and 3.12 low range five years now. I do lots of rock crawling and it’s fine bc the engine and trans put power to the ground very smoothly. I’ll do the under drive gears at some point but not eager for 5.29’s. I’ve never seen a post by a member who stripped teeth from a 4.88 ring and pinion, only 5.29’s. Not to say it has never happen but I’ve never heard of it and I spend way too much time reading this forum.
4.88’s are technically over gearing for 35’s already and would probably accomplish your intended purpose alone so transfer case gears plus 4.88’s maybe too much if you cruise the highway a lot. 4.56’s plus under drive gears as you alluded to already seems like a reasonable solution.
Remember that the 1FZ revs quite freely so second gear can be used to hold 55mph, even 60, on those long, steep grades. Torque peaks at 3,200 and the HP just gets bigger from there on up the tach. 212HP can do a lot of work but we must be willing to rev high enough to access the available power. Gear down too low and you will be in no no man’s land where the stock 1fz still can’t hold third up hill towing and dropping down to second means 45-50mph instead of 55-60mph.
Under drive gears plus 5.29 only for 37’s+ and rock crawling because second gear and 4,000-4,500rpm up hill on the highway all day long.
I’ve been running 37’s and 4.88’s with the stock 1:1 high range and 3.12 low range five years now. I do lots of rock crawling and it’s fine bc the engine and trans put power to the ground very smoothly. I’ll do the under drive gears at some point but not eager for 5.29’s. I’ve never seen a post by a member who stripped teeth from a 4.88 ring and pinion, only 5.29’s. Not to say it has never happen but I’ve never heard of it and I spend way too much time reading this forum.
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- #18
Great comments. I may go 4:88s and then go from there. Planning on towing small boat, jet ski and off-road trailer. Mainly Baja, Utah and Colorado.
One good reason to go with 4.88’s right off is that, while you in there you can install lockers if you don’t already have them not to mention new bearings. Your speedometer and odometer will be about 9% off with 35’s iirc.
I agree with this.
I have run a '94 with 300K on it and 34" BFGs with 4.88 Nitro gears and ARB lockers for years in the high Rockies.
Don't much notice a 1200 lb. trailer. The 34s give me a bit lower gearing (vs. 35s) and reduces the 2nd-3rd-2nd gear shift frustration of climbing on I-70.
If you don't need highway speeds, though, go with the 5.29s. When you go to 37s the driveline starts to suffer.
For the 6000-7000 lb. trailers I built an LX-454 with an Eaton-Fuller FS6406A six speed manual.
Trailer? What Trailer?
