4:56's or 4:88's with 315's ?? (1 Viewer)

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Go with the 4.88s if you are regearing the diffs. If you want 4.56s just do the 10% UD gear for the xfr case and save 2 grand. I have the UD gears and, for the money, are awesome. If I were to do it all over again, and had the money to throw at it, I would go the 4.88 route in a heartbeat. the 56s are an improvement but not worth the $ spent on that improvement (if regearing). 88s would be. If you are going to do it, do it right and only once. The transfer gears were done with the low range reduction at the same time. That was a no brainer...
 
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Reading here over the years I generally (not all) think the guys the that went 4.56 were underwhelmed and wished they had gone 4.88. That was my plan before I sold the 80.
I went 4.56 because I thought I would stick with 33’s. Listen to everyone that says don’t waste your money - 4.88’s would have been better. I don’t ever read posts of people who get their info from online conversion calculators anymore, that’s what led me astray. Real world experience says 4.88’s for the win
 
I went 4.56 because I thought I would stick with 33’s. Listen to everyone that says don’t waste your money - 4.88’s would have been better. I don’t ever read posts of people who get their info from online conversion calculators anymore, that’s what led me astray. Real world experience says 4.88’s for the win
I find this always to be the case. Spreadsheets, online calculators, articles, etc. on topics like this can only take you so far and often pigeon-hole you into the wrong way of thinking. If you have the ability to lean on those who have been there and done that, absolutely do it. This forum is a great place for that.

For this specific topic, I think there is a real discussion to be had about 4.88s vs 5.29s with 35s, but there is no doubt 4.56s are simply a waste of time.
 
this is awesome. Thanks guys. Some of you existing 4.88 and 315 guys, can you post your 70 mph rpm's ??
4.88 w/ 315. In theory geared slightly lower than stock. Since most 315’s actually measure smaller than calculated it’s in reality leveraged further lower. My two cents...it’s not the equivalent of forced induction but no desire to gear it lower. Add a speedo correction gizmo of your choosing along with correctly adjusted kick down cable and it’s very drivable/enjoyable.

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I never corrected my speedo. Just used the Kenwood NAV to see real speed when I needed. Now with 37’s the NAV confirms I’m nearly spot on with 4.88’s. I still run 315’s in the winter. Don’t want to buy another set of 17” wheels and the smaller tire gives me room for chains.
 

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