4.11's with 35's H42 and an early 60 soa question (1 Viewer)

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Pasadena, CA
Was wondering for those running this setup how you liked it?

I'm contemplating going SOA with 35's but already have a set of 4.11 gears.

I know most go 4.56 , but I feel with the stock tranny, the engine will be buzzing going 70 mph at 3100 rpm.


4.11's would put it at 2800 rpm going 70 mph.

I wish I could put in an h55f, but its just too much money right now.


Also I have an early 83 60 , and was planning to pick up the soa kit from proffits. Does anyone know if after the SOA on stock springs, If the rear driveshaft will be long enough to work so I can drive the thing over to a drive shaft shop? Or am I going to need new drive shafts for front and back before I can drive it?

Also is using a 110v welder for the first time, to weld the rear spring perches a bad idea? I have no welding experience and no 220v outlet, so I'm in a pinch here.

I'm going to practice a lot before doing them.

I'm considering welding it as best as I can and then driving it over to someone who has a serious welder to redo them.

sorry for the long list:D
 
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ruff stuff has a good SOA kit it maybe less than proffits

Yeah theirs is nice but involves more welding, which I lack in.

Seems like proffits kit, the front is all welded up, and the only thing I need to weld on is the shock towers for the front axle, and the spring perch and shock mounts for the rear plus traction bar.

Or atleast I think thats right.
 
I think you will really want 4.56s to use with 35" tires. As far as the welder goes, if you use a decent one, like Lincoln, Miller or their other brand, Hobart, you should be fine. Output on these is around 135 amps. The crappy 220V junk-o-matic sold at Harbor Freight puts out less than that. The Harbor Freight 120V welders are a complete waste of money, putting out around 80 amps. My entire rig has been built with a Hobart 120 volt welder. You MUST run them on a 20 amp breaker with no extension cord, or if you must use an extension cord, use the highest possible gague of cord you can find, it makes a huge difference. You have to be patient with a 120 volt welder, it will get most jobs done, just not all that fast. Lincoln makes the best flux-cored wire I have ever used, I reccomend it if you don't want to run shield gas. Being able to weld opens up a huge array of possibilities. That combined with a chop saw, a good grinder and a drill press, even a bench top style, will allow you to make whatever you want instead of trying to make what's available in the market work for your particular need. I can't even count how many shackles I have made. Motor mounts, transmission mounts, bike rack, gas can carrier, bumpers, I made them all.
 
4.56? No way, go 4.88. With 35's you're definitely slow traffic, might as well have an improved offroad capability.
 
I would say .. for the efford, value, and time .. go 4.88 .. no really big rpm diference anycase .. you will probably end in a couple of years with something bigger and heavier ..
 
Please don't let a spring perch be your first welding project. Just tacking in for later welding would be reasonable, but the truck would be 100% not street-worthy just tacked. Rolling around a shop would be it's limit. Your weldor (the person) would have to come to you.
 
I have 35s and 4.56s. I also have a healthy 350 (everybody gets one sooner or later) and if it were geared any lower I wouldn't be able to stand it. 4.88s would be all shifting, no forward motion. Leave the 4.88s for the mini truck guys suffering with four cylinders. The taller the gear ratio, the stronger the gear set is because of the increased area of interface between the ring and pinion.
 
If you run trails that don't require crawling, throw the 4.11s in since you have them and run it. If you are mainly just driving the thing on the street, throw the 4.11s in and run it.

As far as the welding goes, many towns have guys who have mobile welding services. If you have all your pieces tacked or even just clamped in place, from the time he rolls up until he leaves would easily be less than an hour. No shame in paying a certified welder to assure your rig is safe.

I'm driving my rig daily currently, through town to and from work. Believe me, my gearing is WAY more catywampus than what your talking about. (some reason it works and drives great).

If you want to do it, I say go for it. :D
 
If you run trails that don't require crawling, throw the 4.11s in since you have them and run it. If you are mainly just driving the thing on the street, throw the 4.11s in and run it.

As far as the welding goes, many towns have guys who have mobile welding services. If you have all your pieces tacked or even just clamped in place, from the time he rolls up until he leaves would easily be less than an hour. No shame in paying a certified welder to assure your rig is safe.

I'm driving my rig daily currently, through town to and from work. Believe me, my gearing is WAY more catywampus than what your talking about. (some reason it works and drives great).

If you want to do it, I say go for it. :D

Thanks Fred40,

I'm keeping the 4.11's for now and going SOA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D:D:D
 
Also I have an early 83 60 , and was planning to pick up the soa kit from proffits. Does anyone know if after the SOA on stock springs, If the rear driveshaft will be long enough to work so I can drive the thing over to a drive shaft shop? Or am I going to need new drive shafts for front and back before I can drive it?


I bought a 62 that was in the middle of an soa project. The old drive shafts did fit and it drove about 15 or 20 mph before it felt like it was gonna shake into oblivion.

I got one of those lincoln welders from home depot a while back and have used it for little stuff here and there. I just finished making a roof rack. Seemed like good practice for a novice welder. I dont think I'd trust myself with something like perches yet.
 
If you can't drive your truck because the drive shaft length is wrong, call Genreal Driveshaft, they're in Monrovia. They'll pickup, measure and return your drive shafts all ready to install. They're a little expensive but they do good work and they're very accommodating. You don't even have to be at home. I call them and give them my address and credit card info and the driveshaft fairies do the rest.
 
Also I have an early 83 60 , and was planning to pick up the soa kit from proffits. Does anyone know if after the SOA on stock springs, If the rear driveshaft will be long enough to work so I can drive the thing over to a drive shaft shop?

in my case I don't need to do anything to the rear .. but after my CV cut couple of inches in front DS
 
just finished a soa on a 87 60 using the ranger torque splitter as an overdrive and 4.11 and a healthy built 350 i run 4.11 and 35's. street driving is great. and offroad as long as i am in low its not a prob but when i go 38's im doing 4.56. but with 35 i couldn't imagine any lower as for driveshafts i kept my stock rear one but had to swap part of the front out with a newer mini truck or 4runner as the ujoint had much more flex to it. go soa you will never regret it. Well only if your married and your wife finds out how much you spent.


Good luck


Bryon
 
I went 33 1/2 inch and 4.56 and was happy I did on mountain grades at 7,000 to 10,000 feet. If you spend a lot of time on Freeways (which I do not) then the 4.11 will make you a happier driver, I am guessing.
 
I'm 4.11 on 37's.

2500 rpm is abotu 68 mph and it's a very comfy pace in my SOA FJ60.

Go for it and, as stated above, contract a local mobile welder to do the deep penetration for your perches and other fabrication.




I am also running 4.11 on 37's.


Great town and high way combo.


For the trails, I added an "xtra stick" ala Marlin.
 

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