4/0 AWG overkill for rear accessories?

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midfat

midfat

10 Year
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Mar 24, 2013
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Santa Monica, CA
Okay. Guilty. I already know the answer to this. But I have about 70ft of fine German 4/0AWG super flexible welding cable left over from a past project. I have an IBS dual battery system that I've yet to install, so I'm pulling together some parts. The master plan it to put a Blue Sea fuse block in the rear cargo area to support an ARB 50QT fridge/freezer, an ARB twin compressor, an inverter, and possibly a few other basic accessories. Aside from the obnoxious end crimps, any reason I should NOT use this cable?

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Apart from the obvious physical difficulty of actually running the cable from the front to the rear, I cannot see any reason why you could not use this cable.

You might wanna set it out in the sun for a while so it warms up when it comes time to routing it from front to rear.
 
I have the same set of accessories and yes you already know it's overkill BUT better than too thin of a cable.


I only see 3 possible issues:
1. You suppose to put a fuse within 18 inches of the battery so that's not easy or what size fuse do you use on that monster????

2. With that thick of a cable routing gotta be super difficult. You can run the cable under the frame and there is an access point under passenger side by third row seats. But that's a thick cable so not sure it would fit.

3. Make sure you upgrade the negative cable between frame and battery.
 
Jeez, that's going to be like routing a garden hose. I would see if I could trade someone a equal value of something easier to work with. Like a car audio/ welding type place.
 
Okay, did some more digging and also have this 10AWG 5 conductor super flexible wire. I think rather than the 4/0 firehouse, I'm going to bond the 5 leads in the smaller diameter wire. Should get me close to 2AWG (or better) for the positive run. I'm thinking an 80 amp fuse with a master switch up at the aux battery, then a Blue Sea block in the back. As @Qball mentioned previously, I'll also look at upgrading the main ground up front. Any reason I should consider running a secondary dedicated ground alongside the positive lead?

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I'd go with the first choice . It's over kill but you have it. I ran my two separate 0 gauge feeds following the inner frame rail all the way too back pass cargo area. Grommet through floor with silicone to seal. Worked great. Straight shot. I fastened it a lot. Wrapped both feeds together in electrical tape. Been good for 4+ yrs.
 
That's gonna affect your gas mileage!

:eek:
 
midfat said:
Okay, did some more digging and also have this 10AWG 5 conductor super flexible wire. I think rather than the 4/0 firehouse, I'm going to bond the 5 leads in the smaller diameter wire. Should get me close to 2AWG (or better) for the positive run. I'm thinking an 80 amp fuse with a master switch up at the aux battery, then a Blue Sea block in the back. As @Qball mentioned previously, I'll also look at upgrading the main ground up front. Any reason I should consider running a secondary dedicated ground alongside the positive lead?

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#10 stranded .011 area
#4 .042
#2 .067
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
#10 stranded .011 area
#4 .042
#2 .067
Click to expand...
Phil, assume you're referencing the combined area of the five conductors together? All five together would be .055, so right between a 2 and 4awg. What's the school of thought for the ideal wire gauge on a task such as this?
 
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midfat said:
Phil, assume you're referencing the combined area of the five conductors together? All five together would be .055, so right between a 2 and 4awg. What's the school of thought for the ideal wire gauge on a task such as this?
Click to expand...

Correct
Definitely not text book but with a solid crimp you should be fine.
 
That's some nice cable. Why not make a set of jumper cables instead?
 
Okay, for my under hood switch/breaker, I was thinking 80A Blue Sea. Then a six circuit fuse box in the rear cargo area. Am I all wrong in this? Fridge is 2A, compressor is 56A (max draw) and a I am also considering a 1000W inverter. Still somewhat new to the power game, so any input is welcome.
 
@midfat - you could probably trade a local stereo shop / car customizer for $$$ enough to have the right size you can run easier under the carpet, etc. Or direct trade of the length you need if they have a wire dispenser full of diff types/gauge.

70' is a serious workable length, esp if you aren't into it for full retail.

I had 2/0 monster branded power line & even that was a pain to route & get good results. Just my opinion. Seems it had a stupid foam core & wrapping was a tube shape (probably a gimmick for the superduper stereo guys).

And that 10/4 you have isn't as capable as it seems - I don't recall the specs (why I have the yellow spiral book electricians have), but I think I had a scrap of similar in 10/2 & it was only good for an extension cord. And Hubbell ends are ~$10 ea.
 
Welding Cable is not Oil Resistant but other than that it will work
 
midfat said:
Okay, for my under hood switch/breaker, I was thinking 80A Blue Sea. Then a six circuit fuse box in the rear cargo area. Am I all wrong in this? Fridge is 2A, compressor is 56A (max draw) and a I am also considering a 1000W inverter. Still somewhat new to the power game, so any input is welcome.
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If your going thru all the trouble, you might as well put a 12 slot Blue Seas box in. I did a 6 slot a couple months ago, and now I wish I had put a 12 in! Seems once you know you have a good power source back there, things come out of left field that will fill your box up quick!
 
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