3VZE A/C Condenser Replacement (R12 system) (1 Viewer)

ozarkmud

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I'll be acquiring a 4Runner setup for R12, albeit missing the A/C compressor, lost after "the jump."

Since there's no charge in the system, what should I do? Should I get an R12 compressor? Would R134A work? Would a R134A compressor work with R12?

I hear R12 systems with R134A don't work that great. It sounds like 50% propane / 50% butane is the best option if I can't get R12.

Are there any DC, inverter type options?

Would be nice if the windows had the pop outs, in lieu of A/C.

Appreciate any insights that can be offered.

Edit: On Ebay, I see very few used compressors. On Rock Auto, I see this Denso unit, which I imagine may be the way to go? Says compatible with R12 or R134A. More Information for DENSO 4711145 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2022946
 
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I've converted all my R12 Toyota systems to R134A and never changed anything but the expansion valve and dryer as far as major parts. I change all the o-ring seals and put charge port adapters on. I also flush the system and drain the oil out of the original compressor if I'm using it. I use Ester oil on my conversions using old parts. PAG oil and mineral oil do not mix. Ester will be ok.

If I'm using new a compressor that comes with PAG oil already and I am confidant that I got all the old mineral oil out, I use PAG oil in the system.

This is just MY personal experience. I worked for a Caterpillar dealership and did entire fleets of conversions for mining and construction companies back in the day. There are other A/C experts and other opinions about conversions so do what you feel comfortable doing.

My most recent conversion was a 1990 Toyota pickup. It blows cold here in AZ as does my other 80's and 90's models.

I think a Denso compressor is a good choice over most other options.

Good luck with your truck.
 

yotadude520

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I've converted all my R12 Toyota systems to R134A and never changed anything but the expansion valve and dryer as far as major parts. I change all the o-ring seals and put charge port adapters on. I also flush the system and drain the oil out of the original compressor if I'm using it. I use Ester oil on my conversions using old parts. PAG oil and mineral oil do not mix. Ester will be ok.

If I'm using new a compressor that comes with PAG oil already and I am confidant that I got all the old mineral oil out, I use PAG oil in the system.

This is just MY personal experience. I worked for a Caterpillar dealership and did entire fleets of conversions for mining and construction companies back in the day. There are other A/C experts and other opinions about conversions so do what you feel comfortable doing.

My most recent conversion was a 1990 Toyota pickup. It blows cold here in AZ as does my other 80's and 90's models.

I think a Denso compressor is a good choice over most other options.

Good luck with your truck.
aztoyman is correct on that. Anytime you open up an A/C system you have to replace the drier and expansion valve at the very least. Get some R134a adapter fittings and you should be good to go on top of that.
 

ozarkmud

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Thanks for the replies!

Getting closer to tearing into it. These 3VZE engine bays sure don't have a lot of room.

I misunderstood the seller at first, or just remembered wrong, and actually the condensor is cracked. So I bought a replacement. Plus drier, maybe other bits.

Sounds like I just pull the grill and I'll have access to change it out?

Also, there's something near the compressor that looks almost like an ABS unit, but seems linked to the A/C. I'm not sure what it is.

Edit: Looks like it is an ABS actuator, actually. Unrelated.
 
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ozarkmud

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Oops, I think I should've posted this here: 95-older Minitruck / 4Runner - https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/95-older-minitruck-4runner.22/

Would someone mind moving it for me?

I'm having issues getting the new condenser in. Getting the old one out, I had to pinch down the top row of material to get it to clear.

It seems like if the radiator was loose, I could get it in. I think it has to go below the tabs on the condensor, get under the top crossmember, and then it can be pulled up and in place. Getting the radiator loose is tricky. I can only easily get at the top two bolts, and even with those loose there's still not really any more room.

Could anyone advise me on this? Thank you!

photo_2022-08-16_03-38-44.jpg
photo_2022-08-16_03-38-44 (2).jpg



Seems like the FSM just says it should go right in and out. I'm wondering if something is bent, but I'm not seeing it.

 
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