Before I muck-up the plastic facia trying to remove the 3rd row shoulder belts for the seat belts, I thought I better ask if anyone has done this and how to get the plastic body panels removed to get access to the tensioner assembly...anyone?
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I'm thinking of using it for a fire extinguisher bracket/mount, so it is always nice and handy no matter how much stuff you have in the back.greynolds said:or have a better idea on what to use those bolts for (especially the upper ones)?
DMX84 said:We use the Jergens hoist ring at my work it is a very nice unit. The ones we use are American sepc. You could try using some type of bushing for you Disco units, this will allow you to use the smaller bolts and allow it to rotate.
But this idea may allow it to rattle, but that could be fixed too.
DMX
100 TD said:I'm thinking of using it for a fire extinguisher bracket/mount, so it is always nice and handy no matter how much stuff you have in the back.
Yes I was thinking that, although the bolt/mount point is strong and may be able to support the extinguisher by it self, I think a an aditional bottom mount point would be better as I like to do it once for the long haul and not have vibration issues/breakages later.greynolds said:I'm assuming you would mount another bolt so the bracket would be held on well. Definitely a good use of the bolt.
100 TD said:Yes I was thinking that, although the bolt/mount point is strong and may be able to support the extinguisher by it self, I think a an aditional bottom mount point would be better as I like to do it once for the long haul and not have vibration issues/breakages later.
DMX84 said:I would go to a hardware store and look for a metric shoulder bolt.
greynolds said:A bushing would probably work IF I could find one the right size. The thickness of the Disco tiedowns is pretty much the same as the the seatbelt ancors (in fact the Disco tiedowns are very similar to seatbelt ancors).
Campfire said:I also pulled out the third seats, and got tired of the belts rattling around back there. So I pulled out the belts too. All this talk about using the bolt holes for something else is great, but I'm not paying $112 each for the cool tie down from Jergens. I dug out the tap and die set and found that the threads are 7/16 X 20NF. Most Asian cars use SAE threads to keep modifications down a little. And yes, it's a 14MM head on the bolts and SAE threads. Try ordering that one.
Well, off to the hardware store................
LEXUSBEN said:This is about the only sae bolt on the whole truck. The government mandates that all manufacturers use a 7/16 X 20 for seatbelt anchors.
Campfire said:After a little research, I've come up with a low cost alternative to $128 Jergensen lift points to replace the selt belt bolts. I found Summit Racing has some on their website. Seat belt eye bolts for only $4! Your local speed shop should also have a decent selection of these. The picture is the original bolt with the new tie down and a spacer I made. They are the DOT specified 7/16 X 20 thread for seat belt anchor points.
And the eyelet installed in the pillar for a fastening point.
greynolds said:Nice job hunting those down. They look like they'd work out great for using straps with hooks, but would probably be a bit small to pass webbing through (not really a huge downside). For the price it would definitely be tough to do any better. What type of pipe did you use to make the spacer?
Edit: Combined with the snap hooks, those eye bolts would work great with webbing straps too. Now I just have to wait for a few backorders to work themselves out .