3rd gen 4Runner, Racing Build

Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
Right on! I introduced Dave to his wife.
I helped him move into his shop when he first opened.
Dave is a hell of a dude for sure!
Sure is, and that's awesome!

Would anyone have feedback on mounting locations for the permanent fire suppression and it's nozzles? I've included a drawing of my current idea.

This will be manually activated (pull type) fire suppression setup using a 4 liter bottle.

FireSup1.png



firesup2.PNG

^Example of the bottle size, to scale.

Thanks ahead for the help!
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2018
Messages
17
Location
Bozeman, MT
Sure is, and that's awesome!

Would anyone have feedback on mounting locations for the permanent fire suppression and it's nozzles? I've included a drawing of my current idea.

This will be manually activated (pull type) fire suppression setup using a 4 liter bottle.

View attachment 2644479


View attachment 2644480
^Example of the bottle size, to scale.

Thanks ahead for the help!
Holy smokes you're a detailed builder, what awesome drawings and blueprints. I've said it before and I'll say it again-- stoked to be subbed to this thread and can't wait to see it in action!
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
Holy smokes you're a detailed builder, what awesome drawings and blueprints. I've said it before and I'll say it again-- stoked to be subbed to this thread and can't wait to see it in action!
Same here! Looking forward to it!

So the firebottle fits right where I was hoping, and LifeLine did confirm that it can be mounted flat. I purchased the Lifeline 2000 (link here). I'm planning out the 8 nozzle locations. The nozzles have a 90 degree spray pattern, so I'll plan 3 in the main passenger compartment, two for the fuel cell, two in engine bay, and one in the survival-gear/tool area. I'm not sure how the mounting tabs for the nozzles are going to work, and running the suppressant lines is flat out thought provoking.

Now, running the suppressant tubing is not inherently difficult. The challenge is to match head pressure between the different tubing systems the fire suppressant flows through. If one line to the nozzle is significantly shorter than the others, it will get more flow. Here's a link if you need a nap (link here). The easiest way to address that challenge is to match the lengths of tubing coming from the bottle. It'll be far from perfect, but if I can match them within 20% of eachother, that'll probably be good enough.

IMG_4276.JPG



IMG_4296.JPG


FirePlan23_Page_2.png



FirePlan23_Page_4.png


Capture3.PNG
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
Update!

Since I am using the OEM steering wheel bar that mounts hardware in the dashboard, I'm fine tuning where fire suppressant nozzles mount.

route.png

^^current brainstorm on running the fire suppressant tubing and where the nozzles go:
1. two in engine bay
2 . two for the occupants' feet/legs
3. two for the occupant's waist/torso
4. two for the fuel cell
1 and 2 share a primary feed from the extinguisher.
3 and 4 share a primary feed from the extinguisher.

I had aluminum laser cut into the following shape (oshcut.com):
IMG_5290.JPG


Then they were bent to fit around tubing:
IMG_5289.JPG


Then I'd form them at their mounting location.
IMG_5325.JPG


And here are several nozzles mounted in a single pic. If the solidworks picture doesn't make sense, hopefully these help. Cheers!
IMG_5335.JPG
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
UPDATE!!

My daily FJ cruiser was totaled in a freak incident, so I had to drive the racebuild 4runner daily for a while trying to get that situation squared away.

IMG_5452.JPG

^^now totaled FJ.
IMG_5112.JPG

^daily driving. Lucky clear skies for one day--the rest were rainy.

Night time commutes, 3rd gen headlights stink. It was ironic, cause I had just added new proctor headlights to the FJ.
IMG_5129 (1).JPG


Needless to say, that seriously delayed the build schedule. I had to stop working on the fire suppression stuff. Currently I'm designing the rear spare tire mount. Ideally, the spare tire can be hard mounted in the 4runner with the hatch closed while clearing the upcoming fuel cell. Right now, that's not possible with a hard mount. To make a version where I can still close the hatch, a section of non-critical tubing would need to be cut and rewelded. Sense be darned--let's see what that cut and reweld would look like:
cuutout.png

^^live 3d render of the solidworks file using Augment. It's far from perfect, but its a really cool concept.
Any ideas on the tubing arrangement? I'm torn between doing a 3-way node and a 4-way node. The hard mount will have to be removable to service the fuel cell beneath it, which is why there heavy duty tubing clamps in the model. Any help is appreciated!
spare.png
 

Redgrrr

I have a problem with 40s
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
3,707
Location
Paha Sapa
Website
dakotacruisers.com
Wow 😮 cool build! Subbed…

It’s way far north of you but have you checked out the YORR or Yellowstone Offroad Race series? A few friends of mine race the series and I’ve co-piloted once in Columbus Montana. My friends son Landen is 12 years old and beats all the adults frequently! This is his 3rd season!
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
Wow 😮 cool build! Subbed…

It’s way far north of you but have you checked out the YORR or Yellowstone Offroad Race series? A few friends of mine race the series and I’ve co-piloted once in Columbus Montana. My friends son Landen is 12 years old and beats all the adults frequently! This is his 3rd season!

That sounds awesome! I'd love to go up there and race once this thing gets built up. Stay tuned!

Here's the current update.

spare tire mount.PNG
I've redesigned the tire mount to the following:
  1. Mount is now a triangulated member.
  2. Mounts with a removable triangulated assembly using TMR customs link here. That way, the mount can be removed to work on the fuel cell beneath it. I will use these three connections very, very sparingly (pun intended). They are super cool, but I don't know of any codes that allow these for life saving members, just for accessorizing like a spare tire mount.
  3. The spare tire mount is movable up and down the length of the center tube. That way, it can be high in the cabin for when the back hatch is used, and slid down when the back hatch is removed.
spare 1.PNG

^config for inside cabin space.
spare 2.PNG

^^race configuration. I didn't move the mounting plate in the render--my bad. That tire mount would be the part that slides along the center tube. I'll use a tubing clamp as seen in the link here! The mount will be angled to let the spare tire hang out so far.

Parts are being delivered everywhere from California to Canada, so this is going to take a while to start.
In the meantime, garage goals! I'm buying a 3 car garage with attached house, so we're getting hellogarage to do their floor coating, and I'll figure out the shelving later. Here's my render using their marshmallow colored finish. It's about $8 a square foot in cost.

Cheers!

garage 2 (1).PNG


IMG_9362.jpg
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
Update on the spare tire carrier!

Realization is underway!
1. I bought a welding machine for the home. Once we verified its calibration, it was off to the welding races on the spare tire mount.
IMG_9811.jpg
^welded mount.
spare 8.PNG

^Model/sketch
Spare5.PNG

^race config (no hatch)
spare4.PNG

^Road use (with hatch)

spare2.PNG


I hope to have the rear assembly fabricated in October. Cheers!
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
Update!

Some cool things this week.
1. I coated the mount with Steelit. Man, I love the finish of that paint! Worth every penny. It's about time to buy some more.
2. We bought a 3 car garage with attached house! The garage will become home base for the build.
2a. The floor will be coated with polyaspartic late this week.
2b. 240V wiring for welding use is up next.
2c. We may raise the garage doors in the garage.
3. We're going to figure out shelving in the garage in a while.
4. We may raise the roof of the garage. I'm going to talk with a framer and a PE and find out how feasable it it on the house. Fortunately, we have blueprints.


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Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
79
Location
Colorado
Nice looking rig . I hated my inside cage on my 2nd gen. Im 6ft 2 and hit my head on the cage everytime I wheeled.. Your seats are much better than mine and lower.. Who designed your cage? Im not digging your frt hoop or lack of. When I did a hard low speed roll about 15 ft off a ledge . I bent my 1 piece frt hoop almost 6 inches down. I see you did yours in several pieces. Fit looks great. But I don't think you have enough structure to handle a semi hard roll.. I think your gussets from hoop to down tubes welded toghter need to be twice as big. That is right where mine bent. Id prob be dead if it was a high speed roll.. I have a picture of my cage after the roll but cant find it .,.,
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
ard low speed roll about 15 ft off a ledge . I bent my 1 piece frt hoop almost 6 inches down. I see you did yours in several pieces. Fit looks great. But I don't think you have enough structure to handle a semi hard roll.. I think your gussets from hoop to down tubes welded toghter need to be twice as big. That is right where mine bent. Id prob be dead if

I appreciate the feedback! I'm designing and fabricating it, and I've had multiple design reviews/guidance from Score Tech throughout fabrication. It's gotta do two things:
1. Save lives
2. Pass Tech to race.

Out of curiosity, what grade of tubing or pipe did you use in your roll cage build, what welding process did you use, and what kind of joint preps? Using people's feedback to make it better is more better. I've been thinking about adding tubing at the red or green lines in the image below. Would they prevent what your talking about?

hoop.png
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
79
Location
Colorado
I.5 .120 wall dom. The material was good .. It failed due to an engineering problem. On the inside 2nd gen cage it has a bend on the frt hoops down tubes to go around the dash . It failed in that bend. Damn near about the same spot were your pieces connect . I don't think you need and extra tube just prob alittle more gusset between the 2 blue tubes. .. I really think if mine had something there it would not have failed. . The pass side had a grab handle in that spot and didn't bend .. Now my buggy we used .180 wall for the hoops. It isnt a race car we weren't worried about weight. Im building a pro street 4 x right now it will be the 1st cage I have made that has to go though a tech inspection and have to worry about weight. Im sure there is a big learning curve
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Houston, Texas
I.5 .120 wall dom. The material was good .. It failed due to an engineering problem. On the inside 2nd gen cage it has a bend on the frt hoops down tubes to go around the dash . It failed in that bend. Damn near about the same spot were your pieces connect . I don't think you need and extra tube just prob alittle more gusset between the 2 blue tubes. .. I really think if mine had something there it would not have failed. . The pass side had a grab handle in that spot and didn't bend .. Now my buggy we used .180 wall for the hoops. It isnt a race car we weren't worried about weight. Im building a pro street 4 x right now it will be the 1st cage I have made that has to go though a tech inspection and have to worry about weight. Im sure there is a big learning curve
How big was your grab handle? The gussets there are 30% larger than what spec requires, so it might be getting closer to diminishing returns in my case. I've been thinking about doing a grab handle there anyway, and it'd be a nice compromise.
 

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