3M Di-Noc "Rosewood" interior vinyl...

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I didn't see any threads here about using 3M vinyl products to wrap the factory interior "wood" trim... Has anyone done it?

There are lots of "stick on" trim kits on eBay, but my fear is that they add too much thickness and would look cheesy. The vinyl is so thin that it sould look a lot nicer. My only concern is that the "sheen" will be slightly off and will betray the fact that it's just a sticker.

Not sure what the best solution is, but my fake wood is so washed-out and bad looking that I have to do something. I doubt that the factory pieces are even available anymore....and if they were I'm sure prices for the NOS parts are breathtaking! :)

-G
 
The aftermarket kits are the same thickness as oem. I got some samples from www.dashkitspecialties.com and they're pretty nice. Just remove the old trim and replace with new.
 
Take your interior pieces to one of these guys (not THERE guys, but a place that does this)......they're becoming more and more common. I have seen some of the "wood" products they offer, and they look remarkably good. My recollection is that they're not ridiculously expensive.

 
The aftermarket kits are the same thickness as oem. I got some samples from www.dashkitspecialties.com and they're pretty nice. Just remove the old trim and replace with new.


Just so I understand you correctly.... I take the factory trims apart (remove the "wood" faces from the clips/plastic that hold the parts to the dash)... Then apply these new parts to the original backing parts (presumably with 3M double sided tape?) then reinstall the entire assembly back into the dash?

The wording on that website makes it sound like I'm supposed to install their wood veneer ON TOP of the factory veneer ( making it double-thick) but the more I think about it, the less that makes sense. Pretty sure they expect me to carefully pull the factory trims apart...throw away the old faded fronts, and only reuse the rear backing/faster clip areas.


-G
 
AFAIK, the LC wood trim is not factory but rather distributor/dealer installed. Many just remove it to reveal the original black trim.

Blast interior heat for 20-30 minutes. Use plastic putty knife to remove. If needed, apply additional heat with heat gun.
 
AFAIK, the LC wood trim is not factory but rather distributor/dealer installed. Many just remove it to reveal the original black trim.

Blast interior heat for 20-30 minutes. Use plastic putty knife to remove. If needed, apply additional heat with heat gun.
Yep, I've performed this process before, and hoser has it right.....unfortunately, be prepared for some work, as this is NOT an easy process. Very satisfying, once you're done, but not easy at all.......at least the ones I did weren't
 
Just so I understand you correctly.... I take the factory trims apart (remove the "wood" faces from the clips/plastic that hold the parts to the dash)... Then apply these new parts to the original backing parts (presumably with 3M double sided tape?) then reinstall the entire assembly back into the dash?

The wording on that website makes it sound like I'm supposed to install their wood veneer ON TOP of the factory veneer ( making it double-thick) but the more I think about it, the less that makes sense. Pretty sure they expect me to carefully pull the factory trims apart...throw away the old faded fronts, and only reuse the rear backing/faster clip areas.


-G

You don't have to take the panels off to remove the wood trim. I've read on here that some have the heater running full blast for a few minutes with the windows up and it just peels off. Some have used a heat gun. Then clean the left over residue (if any) with "Goo-Gone" or something similar. The new trim pieces do have 3m double sided tape to stick back on where it belongs.

I'll be replacing mine in a couple weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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You don't have to take the panels off to remove the wood trim. I've read on here that some have the heater running full blast for a few minutes with the windows up and it just peels off. Some have used a heat gun. Then clean the left over residue (if any) with "Goo-Gone" or something similar. The new trim pieces do have 3m double sided tape to stick back on where it belongs.

I'll be replacing mine in a couple weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.


Don't be shy about taking photos!!! Thanks! :)

-G
 
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The Medium Burl (RMBW) looks pretty close to what came on mine..maybe a tad darker reddish. The dark Mahogany is what I thought I wanted but too dark imo. The images on the site compared to the samples I received surprised me. I thought about just deleting them all together like some have done, but I'm going for the stockish look.
 
AFAIK, the LC wood trim is not factory but rather distributor/dealer installed. Many just remove it to reveal the original black trim.

Blast interior heat for 20-30 minutes. Use plastic putty knife to remove. If needed, apply additional heat with heat gun.


Interesting.

I don't think I've ever seen an LC without the fake wood dash trim before. I just assumed it was standard equipment.

Guess I'll go check out Google images and see if I can find a pic of the plain interior.


-G
 
Can't help with the removal of the trim pieces yet (still in the market for my LC/LX) but I did wrap the interior trim pieces of my care with DINOC carbon fiber and it turned out really nice.

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=997494

I had seen some poor trim pieces in some of the trucks I have been looking at and had always considered a vinyl wrap as an easy solution to this. The stuff is super easy to work with too and very durable.
 
Can't help with the removal of the trim pieces yet (still in the market for my LC/LX) but I did wrap the interior trim pieces of my care with DINOC carbon fiber and it turned out really nice.

http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=997494

I had seen some poor trim pieces in some of the trucks I have been looking at and had always considered a vinyl wrap as an easy solution to this. The stuff is super easy to work with too and very durable.


I've been looking at some of those threads as well.... :)

There are some DiNoc patterns available now that look like brushed titanium, brushed dark carbon, and brushed steel. I don't think a carbon fiber wrap is the right vibe for a vehicle like the LandCrusier. But being able to add a few metallic touches might end up looking really tasteful and sharp!

The only lingering problem with any sort of wrap (or hydro dipping) is that you lose the small markings for the vents (open vs closed) and the markings on the door switch areas that show lock/unlock, and label each door switch position.

Probably not the end of the world, but it would be nice to replicate those somehow.....


-G
 
Agreed, carbon fiber would probably be out of place but the installation techniques would still be the same.

Last year when I did the mod to the BMW I filled out some form on the 3M website and they sent me a book of samples. Pretty amazing the textures and variety they had. There were like 10 different 'brushed metal' colors and variations. My wife's suv has real brushed aluminum trim pieces that look and feel nice but holding the 3M brushed aluminum next to it you'd have a hard time telling the difference.
 
Agreed, carbon fiber would probably be out of place but the installation techniques would still be the same.

Last year when I did the mod to the BMW I filled out some form on the 3M website and they sent me a book of samples. Pretty amazing the textures and variety they had. There were like 10 different 'brushed metal' colors and variations. My wife's suv has real brushed aluminum trim pieces that look and feel nice but holding the 3M brushed aluminum next to it you'd have a hard time telling the difference.


I'd be curious to see comparative photos of those different metallics if you feel like posting them!

Whats your opinion on the Di-Noc vs. 1080 materials for realism? I've read that the 1080 is thinner and easier to apply, but it also looks more "fake" because the material is too thin to convey a real "brushed metal" look. For the most part it seems like the Di-Noc is not all that hard to apply if you use a heatgun and follow their instructions.... once it softens up, it is reported to lay down and follow tight curves just fine.


-G
 
I replied to many similar questions on the F30 thread I listed above but in short, dinoc was really easy to work with (heat gun and that stuff is totally at your mercy to do what you want with it. Yo ucan even crunch it up in a ball, apply heat and it will look perfectly fine) and I agree it looks so much more realistic. I got samples of the 1080 and dinoc and I think the dinoc just felt better overall.

I will try to post some sample pix soon.
 
I am vinyl wrapping some of the wood trims on my LX470

Using 3M vvivid and it’s pretty easy to work with. Definitely need to remove the trim to get proper edge coverage.

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I really like that look with your very interior. I am currently vinyl wrapping by side mounding (they are showing their 20yrs of FL/TX sun). It is pretty easy stuff to work with once you get the hang of it.

What’s the door look like behind the side cladding? Would it look bad without the cladding?
 

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