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Joined
Jul 4, 2019
Messages
97
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
I’m gonna go out in the limb and say its the water temp sender off the theromstat housing, the back wire tends to get real corroded. Make sure u replace with OEM or a used OEM that works. Aftermarket will give you these symptoms, at least my autozone one did, but it would go above the middle mark and back down again, multiple times a day. And burp ur system by driving the front right tire onto a ramp and let her cool down overnight, then top off the resevour.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 22, 2017
Messages
2,456
Location
Los Angeles
I’m gonna go out in the limb and say its the water temp sender off the theromstat housing, the back wire tends to get real corroded. Make sure u replace with OEM or a used OEM that works. Aftermarket will give you these symptoms, at least my autozone one did, but it would go above the middle mark and back down again, multiple times a day.
Get an aftermarket temp gauge and never have to worry about the stock idiot gauge anymore...
Coolant and tranny temp is all you need.,,
20220806_161707 (2).jpg
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2014
Messages
135
Location
Boise, ID
I looked up my receipt from Partsouq- replaced the temp sensor 8942220010 and thermostat at the same time. I’m thinking it’s probably the wire like was mentioned.

Marco- I’ll have to dig into the aftermarket solution at some point, right now I’m trying to get this thing baselined. Feel free to drop any links or products that would be good to research them.
 
Joined
Aug 22, 2017
Messages
2,456
Location
Los Angeles
I looked up my receipt from Partsouq- replaced the temp sensor 8942220010 and thermostat at the same time. I’m thinking it’s probably the wire like was mentioned.

Marco- I’ll have to dig into the aftermarket solution at some point, right now I’m trying to get this thing baselined. Feel free to drop any links or products that would be good to research them.
You are on the right track. My advise is to add a digital or analogue aftermarket coolant temp gauge ASAP. Kill 2 birds w/ 1 stone while you baseline your cooling system, etc.
 
Joined
Oct 5, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Las Vegas
I am kind of in the budget camp- but I still went for 33” tires. I did the T-case regear (hi gear under drive and low low gear)and it made a big difference.
I actually did it first on 31s and felt a big difference and then again felt the rig get peppier when I went to 33s.
T Case regear was the cheaper option rather than do differentials.
Also I was able to do the whole job myself.
Again my aim isn’t a rock crawling machine but a capable and good looking rig that doesn’t cost me $20k
I am really curious about this. I am semi skilled mechanic. I but not never really broke into transfer cases or transmissions. I have been looking into re-gearing and the hi gear seemed like a better option rather then doing the diffs right now. Long story short.

What has your experience been on the highway with it?
Do you have any information or references or guides?
Is there lash issues and shimming like a diff?
etc
Any information would be helpful. I appreciate.
Been looking everywhere.
 
Joined
Aug 22, 2017
Messages
2,456
Location
Los Angeles
I am really curious about this. I am semi skilled mechanic. I but not never really broke into transfer cases or transmissions. I have been looking into re-gearing and the hi gear seemed like a better option rather then doing the diffs right now. Long story short.

What has your experience been on the highway with it?
Do you have any information or references or guides?
Is there lash issues and shimming like a diff?
etc
Any information would be helpful. I appreciate.
Been looking everywhere.
I have had my 91 for 8 yrs now, it was bone stock when i picked her up, then 33s, 35s w/ 4.10. 35s w/ 4.88, 37s w/ 4.88, and now 37s w/ 4.88 and high/low range underdrive. To be honest, it pulls much harder and faster now w/ 37s than it was stock. It will keep up with 1FZs on highway and steep grades w/ lots of skinny pedals and the downside is that you will burn more fuel doing it. However, with the 4.88 and high range underdrive equates to around 5.38 allows it to be in within the powerband @ 70-75mph, 2700rpm effectively keeps my rig in OD without having to downshift to 3rd all the time and increase fuel efficiency. BTW, my rig is desmogged and also has a Nomad Wholesale valve body upgrade in the A440F, so that also helps tremendously with the performance.

CHeers.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Last edited:
Joined
Jun 8, 2003
Messages
220
Does anyone have a link/source to buy a genuine Toyota OEM accelerator cable for a 1992 80 series 3FE?
Bonus points for a few pics showing the accelerator linkage routing under the hood.

TIA
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2014
Messages
135
Location
Boise, ID
if I’m remembering right OEM was discontinued, at least from the cruise control to the TB. I know there was conversation in this thread about it, I think I posted a picture too.
 
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Utah Valley
since becoming a 3FE owner operator myself now as of recent , i have been working of a few new and unique 3FE .........

lets just problem solvers kits ...



- if anyone has a suggestion for the 3FE anything suggestion box feel free ...


kindly
matt










View attachment 3185645




View attachment 3185647








View attachment 3185648








View attachment 3185649







View attachment 3185650

Matt, a bracket to handle the 90A alternators would be peachy. I mangled one of mine with a grinder to allow juuuust enough room to get the belt to tension, but either a block with proper angling (to go between the motor and the bracket) or a longer bracket would both be great.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Matt, a bracket to handle the 90A alternators would be peachy. I mangled one of mine with a grinder to allow juuuust enough room to get the belt to tension, but either a block with proper angling (to go between the motor and the bracket) or a longer bracket would both be great.


i have observed this topic being discussed many many times in my mud life ,

i have never ever seen a single TECH Photo or video on the topic ?




- i offer a industrial version Genuine NipponDenso 90A External Fan unit , also the OEM internal FAN unit for a 3FE

i know the bottom pivot tabs spacing is different ?


- why does the external fan unit work all years 3FE and the internal fan unit only some years 3FE is how i understand this to be a issue ?










1670307290122.png



1670307341995.png
 
Joined
Aug 22, 2017
Messages
2,456
Location
Los Angeles
i have observed this topic being discussed many many times in my mud life ,

i have never ever seen a single TECH Photo or video on the topic ?




- i offer a industrial version Genuine NipponDenso 90A External Fan unit , also the OEM internal FAN unit for a 3FE

i know the bottom pivot tabs spacing is different ?


- why does the external fan unit work all years 3FE and the internal fan unit only some years 3FE is how i understand this to be a issue ?










View attachment 3186319


View attachment 3186320
do you offer the 90 amp bracket for the 80 amp users who wants to convert to 90 amp unit?
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
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not yet

its on the board now for sure !


my 90 amp external fan unit has the wider spacing between the tabs


fyi ...
 
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Utah Valley
do you offer the 90 amp bracket for the 80 amp users who wants to convert to 90 amp unit?
@ToyotaMatt this the use case I meant: 90A alt in an 80A truck.
Grinding the motor mount with an angle grinder, in place, isn't difficult:

But the different tab/ear location starts you very close the extreme end of adjustment range on the 80A bracket, as seen in this photo:
Actually it's installed and works great and I saved enough money to buy about 50 gallons of gas but thanks for all your support!


uC2Bscq.jpg

and the difference (another inch of throw?) in this one:
3FE 90 Amp upgrade, round 2, son of a

So I have the $21.07 bracket from the dealer, this bracket is for the 90 amp alternator, and the part number is 16381-61060. As you can see from the first pictures, the bracket is slightly different from the original one used with the 80 amp alt. However, I still could not get the 90 amp alternator to fit at the lower mounting point. This mounting point is part of the DS engine mount, so is there also a different engine mount used for the 90 amp?

Has anyone successfully bolted on the 90 amp(part number 27060-61100-84) without grinding the alt. to fit? Try as I might, I couldn't find the hole and get the bolt in. In the end I just put the 18 year old cruddy 80 amp alt back in and put everything back together. I think when I try to replace the water pump, I'll give the new alt. another try, since there will be a lot more room to work in and inspect/see whats going on, and where to grind.

Anyone do the 90 amp upgrade without grinding?

3FE powwa:cheers:
View attachment 409610View attachment 409611View attachment 409612


The 90A bracket (16381-61060) being NLA:

You have the 80A one circled in this image, on your site:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0064/9216/0085/products/3FECooling1_900x.jpg?v=1622581953

You seem to have magical powers of finding sources for NLA Toyota parts, so my suggestion box submission is that this one would be helpful for those of us whose 80A alts die and need to move to 90A.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2014
Messages
135
Location
Boise, ID
Does anyone have a link/source to buy a genuine Toyota OEM accelerator cable for a 1992 80 series 3FE?
Bonus points for a few pics showing the accelerator linkage routing under the hood.

TIA
DB0F0CA7-50D8-4734-941D-BCA86E1993BA.jpeg
754229F5-1FFA-48F2-B28C-EECCA67A988D.jpeg


I was Mia-remembering what cable was NLA, it’s the one from the cruise box to the TB.

 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
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Joined
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Messages
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@ToyotaMatt this the use case I meant: 90A alt in an 80A truck.
Grinding the motor mount with an angle grinder, in place, isn't difficult:


But the different tab/ear location starts you very close the extreme end of adjustment range on the 80A bracket, as seen in this photo:


and the difference (another inch of throw?) in this one:



The 90A bracket (16381-61060) being NLA:

You have the 80A one circled in this image, on your site:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0064/9216/0085/products/3FECooling1_900x.jpg?v=1622581953

You seem to have magical powers of finding sources for NLA Toyota parts, so my suggestion box submission is that this one would be helpful for those of us whose 80A alts die and need to move to 90A.


i will admit to not fully understanding this topic in it's entirety , as i have a 10/88 FJ62LG-PNEK 3FE ......


but know about it in a general way as being a issue requiring a grinder to allow proper fitment of the internal fan 3FE alternator that is actually still available at your local Toyota dealer by Special Order means .......


- is this one part the simple solution bolt on problem solver ?

- or we are talking grinding away at the cast iron lower PIVOT bracket for the 2 lower tabs on the internal fan unit install ?


- or both ?





1670374911243.png
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2003
Messages
220
View attachment 3186975View attachment 3186974

I was Mia-remembering what cable was NLA, it’s the one from the cruise box to the TB.

Thanks very much for the pics, those will help!
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
GOLD Star
Joined
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Messages
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Website
vintageteqparts.com

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