Light has not come on for some time? Runs just fine, has a little rough idle when stopped and in park, like it's just a little "thirsty".
3FE Owners Check-In (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter alkaline747trio
- Start date
Content may include affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
mine is the same way, almost runs better when the light was on- not sure if the engine is running rich when the light is on?
I've never seen anyone else with a 3FE and it sounds miles better from when I bought the truck so I just figured that's what it sounds like.
My 3FE sounds pretty quiet after a valve adjustment. Advance timing to 12-13 degree and the idle is rock solid @ 630 rpm in D and a hair higher in Park. Idle shouldn't hunt, most likely a vacuum leak...
Last edited:
Im gonna second that opinion on the vacuum leak. Probably the reason it went away after a wash. Mine used to do the same thing; rough idle / non steady rpm / smooth after 1500 rpms. My idle now sits at 650 and purrs. Pull all the hoses and replace one at a time with OEM. Also the 5mm ones too. The 91-92 had a ton of hoses. Clean MAF, change PCV, poke a needle thru the throttle body vacuum holes on top.
So my mysterious check engine light came back on last night during my drive home for like maybe 3-4 sec? Vehicle drove just fine the rest of the drive home? Not sure where to start checking?
Factory Service Manual (FSM)[/FONT]
For the FSM call Toyota Publications @ (800) 622-2033
How do you retrieve the codes?
It’s easier than you think. Follow the following steps to find out how your engine is running.
- Initial Conditions:
- Battery voltage 11 volts or more
- Throttle valve fully closed (TPS IDL points closed)
- Transmission in neutral
- Accessories switched “OFF”
- Engine at normal operating temperature
- Turn the ignition switch “ON”. DO NOT START ENGINE
- Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the check connector.
- Read the diagnostic code as indicated by the number of flashes of the “Check Engine” warning light.
This is just one page of the codes, if it not on here, post them and someone out there can open up their shop manual.
Last edited:
I replaced them over the summer, but I'll check on them again.
I haven't messed with the timing or the valves at all.
Thank you!
Hello,Does anyone know the size of the screws that are used to screw the fuel pressure regulator down as I am missing one and it's leaking fuel.
remove the other one and hit the hardware store.....
can anyone tell me what makes the electric underhood cooling fan to come on and start blowing?
The fuses are good and the fan will run when jumped out. I just can’t get it to come on on its own.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
The fuses are good and the fan will run when jumped out. I just can’t get it to come on on its own.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
ColoradoBoy
Too many interests, not enough time...
Maybe this can help you get started. From the 1991 EWD book.
It only comes on when ur engine temp is super hot and u turn off the key. The reason is to prevent vapor lock in ur fuel line. How do i know this? Because I went thru the In & Out drive thru on a summer day, then shut off the 91 at the gas station next door, and whamo fan came on, then vapor locked so bad i had to wait for it to cool down before it would kick over. Word of advise dont drain ur battery trying to start it up after this because then u will have vapor lock AND a dead battery. This happens more in California because of all the ethanol additives in the gas to appease the libs.
Last edited:
ColoradoBoy
Too many interests, not enough time...
Yes- I should have mentioned that the operation is temperature based. If temps are below the set point, the fan will not come on.
Recently my temp gauge has been flaky- it will bounce back and forth from bone cold to operating temp several times in a 20 mile trip.
Trying to get a feel for where I need to prioritize this with the other maintenance I have. It doesn’t seem to affect driving performance, would the ecu get the signal and dump fuel when it show cold (but isn’t)?
Trying to get a feel for where I need to prioritize this with the other maintenance I have. It doesn’t seem to affect driving performance, would the ecu get the signal and dump fuel when it show cold (but isn’t)?
Welp… thankfully I ordered a new radiator yesterday and magically today found a leak… gonna do drive belts and rad hoses, possible a water pump while I’m in there
Thermostat?
Is that from the upper radiator hose? or any of the hoses coming off the WP and thermostat? Did you identify where the leak is coming from?
I couldn’t 100% narrow it down, but it was from the area of the WP… so, I ordered a new one and will replace all the rubber hoses around it.
Yeah I just replaced it last year with an OEM unit so was hoping it wasn’t the culprit. I also replace a sensor when I did it, but looking back I can’t remember which one.
