3fe long morning start goose chase

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Apr 29, 2013
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I have searched the forums and from that I've already replaced several things on the FJ62, only to have short lived successes.

Ok mornings it'd take about 4 separate cranks to start it, with the worst mornings being 7+ cranks.

Below is a list of dates and repairs done so far. I'll be grateful to anyone with any suggestion as to the direction I could take. My local LC mechanic, has basically said that he'd rather not spend anymore comped hours diagnosing the problem. So before I start racking up a diagnosing bill, you guys seem to be my last chance : )

Jan 13, 2013 - worn out spark plugs replaced,air filter changed, carbon in throttle body cleaned, induction service done, timing checked and was ok, fuel system flush, plenum cleaned, system cleaner used to prevent carbon build up.

Jan 31, 2013- long cranks returned, so cold start injector and thermal time switch were replaced.

July 30, 2013- fuel pressure checked, was 55, so fuel pressure regulator and dampness were replaced, and fuel pressure came down to spec. Throttle body cleaned, new fuel filter, adjusted idle down from 1350 to 750-850. Also complete tune-up done.

After this work it started on a long first crank for about 5 days. Now it's back to starting maybe on the 2nd, but definitely on the 3rd...for now : /

Also if the motor is the slightest bit warm, it'll fire up on the first crank pretty quickly, all day, every day. Only sitting overnight that first crank, is when this occurs...
 
Forgot to mention, everything was ohmed out regarding the CSI and the rest of the fuel system.
 
I'm chasing down a similar issue but I haven't replaced all that yet.
I'm wondering if the fuel pulsation damper could be a problem.
Also, if the fuel pressure ok now?
 
Fuel pressure is spec now. I was told a fuel dampner was replaced, not too sure about what you mentioned...
 
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Are getting fuel right away on first crank you can check this by separating the fuel feed line to the filter, it could be a fuel pump issue or one of the relays in the kick panel by your brake pedal side.
 
Are getting fuel right away on first crank you can check this by separating the fuel feed line to the filter, it could be a fuel pump issue or one of the relays in the kick panel by your brake pedal side.
relays checked out, forgot to mention that also.

If I test the fuel pump like you mentioned, how do. I prevent fuel from coming out of the disconnected line...?
 
run it into a bucket the line has some pressure at first but once it releases run the test..its a two man job you dont want gas spraying all over your electronics could be a problem( use a hose over the line to a bucket).
Fuel pumps can be finacky things when they go sometimes they just have occasional hickups and dont totally go out.
Also check the wiring going from the fuel pump and routes through the rear side panel some guys including myself have had frayed wiring which caused intermitant problems.
The wires run from the access plate under the carpet IIR correctly it was 8 years ago when mine acted up they can get pinched.... the access plate goes to the sender and not the fuel pump but from there you can see the connections to the pump.
 
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Update: After having the fuel filter replaced, and the crappy cold starts popping up again. I decided the check and see if my tank was bad, so I took the fuel filter off, drained it, and nothing came out bu clear gas.

So that eliminates my tank from being rusty. I also flushed the fuel lines. Now it's starting on the beginning of the 2nd crank now.

My next stop I think is doing a new fuel pump and in-tank filter, and then clean the throttle bottle again.

More to come.

Any suggestions on other paths to look into, I'd be obliged : )

Thanks.
 
run it into a bucket the line has some pressure at first but once it releases run the test..its a two man job you dont want gas spraying all over your electronics could be a problem( use a hose over the line to a bucket).
Fuel pumps can be finacky things when they go sometimes they just have occasional hickups and dont totally go out.
Also check the wiring going from the fuel pump and routes through the rear side panel some guys including myself have had frayed wiring which caused intermitant problems.
The wires run from the access plate under the carpet IIR correctly it was 8 years ago when mine acted up they can get pinched.... the access plate goes to the sender and not the fuel pump but from there you can see the connections to the pump.

I've been told fuel pumps either work or don't. Is this not true...?
 
Hi, I have found this to be false on my cruisers. Mike
 
I replaced the fuel pulsation damper today with an aftermarket model.
At first it felt like it started better but later I got the typical stutter and stall.

Oh well, next thing is to change the fuel pressure regulator.
If that doesn't work I'll remove and clean the cold start fuel injector.
 
I read this thread and wondered - When was the last time you had your fuel injectors cleaned and calibrated?
 
Fuel pump is not an easy removal you have two options drop the tank which is the biggest PIA or option 2 cut an access hole through the floor and weld it back up when you are finished...that was the route I took.

r3lc is it possible to calibrate these injectors they are electronic allot different than my diesel injectors which are mechanical which have to be rebuilt and calibrated ,my understanding is they get an electrical pulse which kicks them open they appear to be minimal parts on these and the rebuild kit only has a few O rings no needle or shims like the mechanical injectors I am used to....can you shed some light on this since I am just going to buy a reconditioned set off Ebay and call it a day.
 
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Sometimes the check valve in the pump fails and then it takes a while for the fuel pressure in the rail to get back to spec when starting . Could be an good idea to use a fuel pressure gauge to check the rail pressure.
 
Fuel pump is not an easy removal you have two options drop the tank which is the biggest PIA or option 2 cut an access hole through the floor and weld it back up when you are finished...that was the route I took.

r3lc is it possible to calibrate these injectors they are electronic allot different than my diesel injectors which are mechanical which have to be rebuilt and calibrated ,my understanding is they get an electrical pulse which kicks them open they appear to be minimal parts on these and the rebuild kit only has a few O rings no needle or shims like the mechanical injectors I am used to....can you shed some light on this since I am just going to buy a reconditioned set off Ebay and call it a day.


Dieseler - not sure if I have the answer to your question. I have included a link to RC engineering in Torrance CA - they calibrated my injectors and tracked the performance before and after. If the injectors are worn and dripping, seems like it would create multiple performance issues including a hard start.

http://rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-ProCal-Service-P44C0.aspx

I hope the link answers a few questions. I would also call them with any question, they seem to be very customer service oriented.
 
I always suggest cleaning electrical connections everywhere associated with the efi. It doesn't take much corrosion to cause issues. Open connectors and spray them with contact cleaner, and if possible do some light sanding. I'd also take the connections apart at the battery and clean them. Even the big post. + and -.
 
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Now it's back to starting maybe on the 2nd, but definitely on the 3rd...for now : /

Also if the motor is the slightest bit warm, it'll fire up on the first crank pretty quickly, all day, every day. Only sitting overnight that first crank, is when this occurs...

This is a problem? Sounds normal to me.
 
Possible one of your fuel line connections is leaky causing it to lose pressure when it sits for more than a few hours. Needs a couple cranks to build pressure.

If you're getting fuel at all I wouldn't drop the tank although depending on the rust of the bolts, it could be easier than pulling the injectors.

I'd like to do the injectors too but I've been wrenching the rest of my fuel system too much lately. Going to buy a couple bottles of seafoam instead.
 
try turning on the key to run, but not cranking. wait till you get your seatbelt on or such, like you are waiting for glowplugs on a diesel. Then crank. see if there is a difference. Waiting will let the efi figure out stuff, and the fuel pressure will build in the fuel manifold. I always tell my wife on her 3fe to wait a little bit before cranking.
 
Don't see this mentioned so just throwing this out for consideration. It could be the switch in the AFM that turns on the fuel pump. Turn the key to run then move the AFM vane with your hand to see if the fuel pump comes on right away.
 

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