Hey Everyone,
FNG here. Have read many threads, but this is my first post. Not exactly a gear head, but know just enough to get myself into trouble, land myself an IH8MUD account, and hope @jonheld responds to my thread.
Im going to try to give you as much info as i can up front:
I have a 1991 Land Cruiser, purchased used and what I believe to be just about bone stock. Odometer reads around 218k, but it was a replacement and the car should really have around 185k (so says the PO).
Ive owned it for about 2 years, no real problems with it up until this point.
CEL seems to toggle on and back off over and over again, switching every 100 miles or so. I checked codes about a year ago (can't remember what they were but i was tinkering with the EGR valve, which seemed fine and I didn't replace any parts, and CEL toggling continued).
Last Tuesday i started it up, rather slow start which seems common when its cold (50° is cold in San Diego) in the mornings, and when i put it into gear and began driving, the motor was sporadic and kind of bogging when on the gas. This was abnormal, but after about a block or so it seemed to normalize. Then about a mile from my house going about 40 mph, the motor just shut off, as if it ran out of gas (but still had 1/2 tank), and hasn't started since.
After having it towed back home, I stumbled upon this site (not my first time on it), started searching, found a little info, and started tinkering.
My gut feeling was lack of fuel, so I started there and jumped B+ to FP, and heard the pump run. Next i rented a fuel pressure tester kit and did that, and read ZERO PSI (had a feeling i might have not been using the system right, and looking back it was probably the case - how do you get fuel pressurized? Keep B+ connected to FP?). Anyway, assuming 0 PSI was correct, i disconnected the fuel line after it passes through the filter, jumped B+ to FP, and out flowed gas (slowly). So, based on my "zero" PSI reading and what looked like a slow flow after the fuel filter, i replaced the fuel pump. Didn't fix my no start - awesome.
My next step (which probably should have been my first) was to spray starter fluid into the intake. Didn't get 'er started, so my thought became "its not fuel at all - awesome!"
On to spark i went! I pulled spark plug wires, #3 plug wire connector turned to a pile of rust powder when i removed it, and #4 wasn't far from that. In addition, I tried to check spark on spark plug wire #1 with the plug in it and grounded to the block, and got no spark at all. At this point, I figured i needed new plugs and wires regardless, so threw those in, cleaned off a little buildup on the inside of the distributor cap connectors and rotor, and to no ones surprise, she still didn't start.
Now, i used a multi meter to check resistance of the ignition coil, and read .6 to .7 ohms i believe on the primary (high?), and about 10k ohms on the secondary ( maybe a little low?). These seemed maybe a little outside of normal ranges based on some threads/repair manuals I've seen here and online, but is it enough to be the problem? Or is there something else I should check before replacing? Any normal voltage that should be here when trying to start?
In sum:
- Died while driving
- Hasn't started since but engine cranks hard
- CEL is ON when the ignition is in the "On" position but motor is not running
- No start after spraying starter fluid into intake
- No spark at plug when trying to start it (with either old or new plugs and wires)
- I unknowingly cleared the codes when i checked the EFI fuse near the beginning of this whole process (forgot to mention that earlier).
- when holding the distributor end of the high tension cord (disconnected) near the body of the car (ground), i saw no spark (dunno if this is a test you experts use, but I'm assuming it means no spark coming from the coil?)
Any thoughts, input, or questions are appreciated!
Also, couple other misc questions regarding the pictures I've attached:
1) Anyone know what the Bosch black box is just next to my fuse box? Haven't seen it in other photos of 3FE's
2) Can this car run without an "EFI Main" relay? When i opened the fuse box under the hood, it looked exactly like the picture (no EFI Main)
3) What is the little gray device under the black ignition coil? And how can i test it if i need to?
Sorry for the book. Like i said, I'm the FNG, so bear with me if any of my verbage is making you cringe
Cheers
- Rex
FNG here. Have read many threads, but this is my first post. Not exactly a gear head, but know just enough to get myself into trouble, land myself an IH8MUD account, and hope @jonheld responds to my thread.
Im going to try to give you as much info as i can up front:I have a 1991 Land Cruiser, purchased used and what I believe to be just about bone stock. Odometer reads around 218k, but it was a replacement and the car should really have around 185k (so says the PO).
Ive owned it for about 2 years, no real problems with it up until this point.
CEL seems to toggle on and back off over and over again, switching every 100 miles or so. I checked codes about a year ago (can't remember what they were but i was tinkering with the EGR valve, which seemed fine and I didn't replace any parts, and CEL toggling continued).
Last Tuesday i started it up, rather slow start which seems common when its cold (50° is cold in San Diego) in the mornings, and when i put it into gear and began driving, the motor was sporadic and kind of bogging when on the gas. This was abnormal, but after about a block or so it seemed to normalize. Then about a mile from my house going about 40 mph, the motor just shut off, as if it ran out of gas (but still had 1/2 tank), and hasn't started since.
After having it towed back home, I stumbled upon this site (not my first time on it), started searching, found a little info, and started tinkering.
My gut feeling was lack of fuel, so I started there and jumped B+ to FP, and heard the pump run. Next i rented a fuel pressure tester kit and did that, and read ZERO PSI (had a feeling i might have not been using the system right, and looking back it was probably the case - how do you get fuel pressurized? Keep B+ connected to FP?). Anyway, assuming 0 PSI was correct, i disconnected the fuel line after it passes through the filter, jumped B+ to FP, and out flowed gas (slowly). So, based on my "zero" PSI reading and what looked like a slow flow after the fuel filter, i replaced the fuel pump. Didn't fix my no start - awesome.
My next step (which probably should have been my first) was to spray starter fluid into the intake. Didn't get 'er started, so my thought became "its not fuel at all - awesome!"
On to spark i went! I pulled spark plug wires, #3 plug wire connector turned to a pile of rust powder when i removed it, and #4 wasn't far from that. In addition, I tried to check spark on spark plug wire #1 with the plug in it and grounded to the block, and got no spark at all. At this point, I figured i needed new plugs and wires regardless, so threw those in, cleaned off a little buildup on the inside of the distributor cap connectors and rotor, and to no ones surprise, she still didn't start.
Now, i used a multi meter to check resistance of the ignition coil, and read .6 to .7 ohms i believe on the primary (high?), and about 10k ohms on the secondary ( maybe a little low?). These seemed maybe a little outside of normal ranges based on some threads/repair manuals I've seen here and online, but is it enough to be the problem? Or is there something else I should check before replacing? Any normal voltage that should be here when trying to start?
In sum:
- Died while driving
- Hasn't started since but engine cranks hard
- CEL is ON when the ignition is in the "On" position but motor is not running
- No start after spraying starter fluid into intake
- No spark at plug when trying to start it (with either old or new plugs and wires)
- I unknowingly cleared the codes when i checked the EFI fuse near the beginning of this whole process (forgot to mention that earlier).
- when holding the distributor end of the high tension cord (disconnected) near the body of the car (ground), i saw no spark (dunno if this is a test you experts use, but I'm assuming it means no spark coming from the coil?)
Any thoughts, input, or questions are appreciated!
Also, couple other misc questions regarding the pictures I've attached:
1) Anyone know what the Bosch black box is just next to my fuse box? Haven't seen it in other photos of 3FE's
2) Can this car run without an "EFI Main" relay? When i opened the fuse box under the hood, it looked exactly like the picture (no EFI Main)
3) What is the little gray device under the black ignition coil? And how can i test it if i need to?
Sorry for the book. Like i said, I'm the FNG, so bear with me if any of my verbage is making you cringe
Cheers
- Rex
