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3FE Break-In Procedure Confirmation and Questions

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by 4Cruisers, Feb 11, 2018.

  1. 4Cruisers

    4Cruisers SILVER Star

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    Searched MUD, other Toyota forums, and the Internet (including Summit Racing and EricTheCarGuy) to make sure I have my specific procedure correctly lined out before firing up the rebuilt engine (including new camshaft). I've recently received a few good tips on the forum, and ran across some good information on the 80-Series forum from @69rambler:

    Proper 3F-E break-in procedures

    Here's the status of the vehicle's systems:
    • Engine filled with ~8 quarts of conventional break-in oil supplied by the machine shop that rebuilt the engine, new oil filter installed, lower end primed with oil using a drill and homemade attachment made from an old screwdriver blade (this was done about 3 weeks ago), and oil generously dripped over the rocker arm assembly.
    • Refreshed radiator installed and coolant system topped off (still need to burp it during break-in) - tightened several OEM hose clamps to fix small leaks, will check again for leaks during break-in.
    • A/C system converted to R134a with PAG 46 oil added to Toyota retrofit receiver/dryer and compressor, per Toyota's retrofit Technical Service Bulletin, and system pumped down to 21+ in Hg (good for 7,2400-foot elevation).
    • Power steering pump filled with ATF, will top off during break-in.
    • Clutch system filled with brake fluid, system bled, and clutch pedal adjusted.
    • New H55f and transfer case filled with appropriate gear oil.
    • Front and rear axles filled with appropriate gear oil.
    • Front knuckles rebuilt and front wheel bearings replaced and repacked.
    • Brake system installed with new wheel cylinders and brake shoes on the rear axle and remanufactured calipers and new pads on the front axle.
    • Distributor/rotor/cap, coil/igniter, plugs/wires installed.
    • Fuel system reinstalled with new fuel pump, filter, pulsation damper, pressure regulator, and refurbished injectors.
    Things I know I need to do/should do before starting:
    • Fabricate and install 2-inch spacer for the load sensing proportioning valve (added OME suspension lift), add brake fluid to master cylinder, and bleed brake system.
    • Connect parking brake cables at rear backing plates.
    • Install front and rear driveshafts.
    • Reconnect speedometer cable at transfer case.
    • Add fuel to fuel tank.
    Questions:
    • The exhaust system is not completed. I plan on having a custom section fabricated from the exhaust manifolds to the single FJ60 catalytic converter, along with the two oxygen sensors upstream from the Y-pipe, one for each bank of three cylinders. So the oxygen sensors are not yet installed. I wanted to have the FJ60 drivable before taking it to the exhaust shop so they could move it around as needed, but it seems like I'd want to have the 3FE broken in before turning the FJ60 over to them. Are the oxygen sensors critical during the break-in period? If so, I can temporarily reinstall the front pipes with oxygen sensors and catalytic converters for break-in - that's what I'm leaning towards.
    • I've read in a couple of places that I could prime the lower end some more by removing the spark plugs and turning over the engine with the starter several times. Is this necessary since I already primed it with a drill? Wouldn't that defeat the intent of the cam break-in, or does it matter?
    • If I need to run the engine at 1,800 to 2,400 rpm initially for ~30 minutes for the cam break-in, wouldn't that be bad if I haven't verified oil delivery to the top end first? Or would the oil I drip over the rocker arm assembly, etc. beforehand keep things lubricated for that long? Or could I run it for a few minutes at those rpms then remove the valve cover to verify oil delivery, followed by the remaining 30 minutes?
    Just want to make sure I don't mess things up.
     
  2. tacosupreme

    tacosupreme

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    You're too worried about it. Just fire the damn thing up and check for leaks. Shut it down after a minute or two, look over all the little things like belt tension etc, check fluid levels, then go for a drive to the exhaust shop. The exhaust shop isn't going to drive it more than they need to to get the job done.
     
  3. 89BIGBLUE

    89BIGBLUE

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    I wouldn’t skip the 20-30 min of sustained rpm. I did on my IHC 392 15+ years ago, and recently had to replace a lifter that had rounded out. I don’t want to imagine what the cam lobe looks like. It still runs strong, in the true tractor fashion though.
    You might be able to peek at the rocker arm assembly through the oil fill hole in the valve cover with a light and a mirror...to make you feel better about top end oiling.
    Be brave!
     
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  4. 4Cruisers

    4Cruisers SILVER Star

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    I'll give it a try in a few minutes, would definitely be easier than removing a bunch of parts to get the valve cover off.
     
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  5. cruisermatt

    cruisermatt ランドクル62! SILVER Star

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    Just fire it up and drive it.
     
  6. RockDoc

    RockDoc

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    When I got my 2FE together I broke in the cam for 20 min as per regrinders instructions (while poking around under the hood to check for leaks and watching gauges), then drove the $#1t out of it to seal the rings. :meh: This was after priming oil with drill and with down pipes and O2 sensors, no exhaust behind.

    Edit: Jim raises good points about retorquing head bolts and adjusting valves. IIRC, after breaking in my cam and taking a 5 minute spin (first heat cycle), I retorqed the head bolts, adjusted valve lash and adjusted timing a bit retarded (to avoid spark knock without being able to hear it over open exhaust) before taking it for a good drive.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
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  7. 89BIGBLUE

    89BIGBLUE

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    ...I think you might need the O2 sensors involved to get the 3FE to run...it might throw codes and act strange without them...and make you nervous-er about break in...
     
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  8. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    It would suck to wash the rings out of a brand new engine because the O2 sensors were not installed & driving the mixture full rich.

    FWIW, the correct thing to do is have engine & vehicle ready to run. That means a complete exhaust system (so bad engine noises are audible) and O2 sensors installed and complete air intake with filter and roadworthy chassis.

    Prime the oil pump, stab the dissy and fire it up. Break in cam for 20mins, retork HG & adjust valves. Then drive at varying speed & load for an hour.

    Ultimately it's your project, do whatever you're comfortable with.
     
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  9. LAMBCRUSHER

    LAMBCRUSHER

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    It’s been recently stated somewhere here that tdc#6 compression is where the cam lines up if you want to watch oil upstairs before the big show...I agree about o2 sensors being needed.
     
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  10. cruisermatt

    cruisermatt ランドクル62! SILVER Star

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    What did Toyota do with new motors right off the assembly line? Serious question.
     
  11. Prairie Swamp

    Prairie Swamp

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    Probably not much. I can't speak to Toyota Japan in the 80's but I've been in a lot of assembly plants. When there's a car coming off the line every 58 seconds or whatever there's no screwing around. The cars have to be driven off the end and out to the yard to await shipment.

    They's don't exactly redline them but they don't baby them either. Sure the floor is glossy industrial paint but there's something between tire chirp and squeal with every car. When you buy a new car with 1.3 miles on it let's just say that's been a hard 1.3 miles.
     
  12. LAMBCRUSHER

    LAMBCRUSHER

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    if it's gunna break, they'd rather it break right now...
     
  13. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    Some factories (used to) test run engines before dropping them in chassis. But they were test run on a complete stand with an exhaust system and air cleaner. Because modern electronically controlled engines and trannies just work right, normal production vehicles (not McLaren or Failrari) are started up, driven off the end of the line, flogged around a test course to verify brakes, steering, shifting, etc. and sent to the transporter.
     
  14. 73tlcv8

    73tlcv8

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    The break in oil should have zinc to protect the cam and lifters, after break in I use the VR1 racing oil with zinc. Curious what others think about the lack of zinc in new oils for these engines.
     
  15. 4Cruisers

    4Cruisers SILVER Star

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    The machine shop provided me with 9 quarts of break-in oil with zinc, plus a couple of small bottles of zinc additive for the first oil change. I'll be down in Albuquerque later this morning and will stop by and freshen my memory on their break-in recommendations.
     
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