3b Voltage Question (yes, another) (1 Viewer)

[Semiazai]

I promise I looked and didn't find, so feel free to just point me to it if I failed to find this information.
Voltage was dipping below 8 volts whenever I had fans and lights going, which was triggering my edic controller to rhythmically engage.
I've replaced my voltage regulator and my brushes. I cleaned up both battery grounds and tested both my batteries. I also hooked up the tester and the alternator appears to be outputting about 13v.
I'm here because with lights and fans on, even at 2000rpm, my voltage looks low... I can't remember what was normal before I had problems. So here are pics; am I all good or should the alternator be keeping up better? I would hate to have to replace the alternator.

 

[duncanrm]

With lights and fan on what is your actual voltage as measured with a meter? And when you say "Lights" is this just the factory headlights?

 

[Semiazai]

Yes, factory lights.

 

[lacalvette]

Is that an internal or external voltage regulator?
Edit: never mind, just googled it…

 

[Semiazai]

We drove for about 300 miles yesterday. I had lights on until about the 200 mile mark when my edic started acting up again. Turning off the lights made it stop. Turning lights or vent fans on made the edic cycle again until I turned them off. Any thoughts?

 

[Semiazai]

I just ran it at 2000 rpm and got 13.69 without lights or fans.

Then I turned on the lights and fans and the edic started cycling. Every time it cycled the voltage dropped a little more and couldn't recover. Eventually it got down to 12.25 and didn't seem to be dropping too fast to recover anymore.

Before I started it I tested both batteries and they were good.

 

[lacalvette]

I know you had a look at it but looks like a ground issue
Having a bad ground would make a contact resistance hence drawing more current.

Batteries to body, body to frame, engine, alternator to engine (through bolts)

Mine did the Edic thing and it was a bad ground.

 

[Semiazai]

Passenger side battery goes to frame, and I cleaned that connection. Driver's side battery goes to engine (like PO had it), and I cleaned that connection. Alternator is, as you say, grounded through bolts to the engine. I could move the driver's side ground to the frame, but this problem is new, and the grounds haven't changed for a decade other than being cleaned up recently. My first thought was ground, so I tried that first. I guess I'm just not sure what else I could do to improve grounding at this point.

 

[Diesel42]

I would continue to search your grounds. Seems very indicative. They are located through the vehicle, under the dash area,etc.

 

[Semiazai]

I was thinking about back when I replaced all my battery cables with 1/0 gauge and I realized I couldn't remember doing a cable from the engine to the frame. So I checked that. Sure enough it was old smaller cable. I cleaned up the connections and now I'm getting 13.26 at the passenger side posts with lights and fans on. Is that what I should expect with a bj60? Did we do it? Do I celebrate now?
*Edit: No

 

[sodafeld1]

Interesting. Whilst that is an improvement what you just did.
I always found in my old b engine or my current 2h that if I run ome lights, wipers and heater blower fan, say during a night storm, I don't charge the batteries, maybe around 12.4v. Any lower and that would mess with your edic, flat battery in the morning. Either way, not the nicest feeling.

Changing brushes, good earths,reg, which you did, comes to first steps.

But the ome lights, fan and wipers are all fairly heavy duty current draws, even individually. Toyota made them heavy duty.

I changed to led lights throughout, they draw heaps less, brighter too. I used stedi leds.

If you have a aux batt too, a little juice goes to charging that too.

There are some 120 amp alternators which give more charge., in oz the baxter brand has a good reputation, used in mines.

The ome 80amp alternator can charge the battery/s with high beam led lights, fan and wipers running, even towing in a night storm. I got spare regs and brushes for a good price, 'As' brand from 'spareto', the brushes and reg is the same for a mitsubishi altenator.

Currently I am running a taiwanese bosch 80a alt on my good troopy, it is ok, works, 5 year warranty (be fun to get the warranty fulfilled I bet,not) but a dog to get a spare reg for it, no after sale service. But the 2h I am building has the baxter 120a alternator, which is possible to get a spare reg for without too much hunting.

 

[Semiazai]

I've further improved grounding, including under the dash. Voltage is marginally improved. It is less likely to cycle the edic, but not completely solved. *shrug* Now what?

 

[sodafeld1]

Sometimes I have found the quickest way is get a sparky to bench test your alternator. If they are good there is no charge. They can tell you what is wrong quickly if it is the alternator. Proper bench testers are expensive.

Whilst you got fairly good charge without load, under load it is not enough.

It is excellent you went through the grounds throughout.

To rebuild the alternator often is more than just buying a new one.
It shall save time and help you get on with other things.

One time I fried the diodes in the alt, jump starting a modern car. It was cheaper, quicker to buy a new plug and play one.

I always recommend it is good to make sure you can get a spare reg for it. Probably the best in oz is the baxter alternator, don't know how you go for shipping to Canada though.
Second best is a pickapart alternator, but bench test it first. I have quite a collection of alternators..