3B Questions

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Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Threads
87
Messages
465
Location
Nelson, BC, Canada
Hi, I just bought an 85 BJ60 with a 3B diesel. I have a few questions:

-Are the injection pumps lubricated by engine oil?
-Are fuel conditioners necessary? if so, what is a good brand, Howes?
-Is extended life coolant a good thing to use? do they need cavitation protection?
-How does the fuel shutoff work? electrical or vaccum?
-Is a standard 15w-40 adequate?
 
First off, Welcome to the 3B Club!
The most solidly reliable motor I have ever owned!

I'm no expert by any means. And I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong :)



-Are the injection pumps lubricated by engine oil?

Yes As far as I know.

-Are fuel conditioners necessary? if so, what is a good brand, Howes?

These are not necessary. I throw Howes in once a yearish. Everyone on here has their own opinion on these so please speak up!

-Is extended life coolant a good thing to use? do they need cavitation protection?

The stock 3-core Rad is something you should have examined. The cores tend to get brittle around 250k-300k Kms.
I have only run cheap coolant and water in mine and never had any problems my coolant isn't rust filled or anything like that but I do know that if you have to have it re cored, get 4 instead of 3 you wont be sorry.

-How does the fuel shutoff work? electrical or vaccum?

The fuel shutoff is is via the EDIC Motor. It is all electrical on the 3B however I do believe the 13B-T did go to a vacuum system. The EDIC motors tend to get temperamental in their old age. There are many threads on here on how to run without them.

-Is a standard 15w-40 adequate?

Its all I use. Standard 15W40. Many other people use a variety of different brands- synthetic and non. I wouldn't recommend Synthetic myself because it can result in more leaks (these things are leaky enough as it is)

These are just my 2c and nothing more. You will definitely find this resource to be the most valuable thing in the world of landcruisers.
the people on here have helped me more than I could ever tell.

If you are mechanically inclined ( or not ... but have some understanding of the basics) This is a great engine for you. Its probably one of the simplest diesel motors out there. Don't forget to download the factory service manual in the stickys.

good luck
 
The inline pumps are indeed lubricated by motor oil. The rotary pumps are not.

3Bs are dry sleeved so no cavitation issues

Some will argue that you should use better oil. I'd say that frequent oil and filter changes are more important. IDI engines drop a lot of silt into the oil. You'll likely drop a precup before wearing out a bearing though.
 
There's a banjo fitting to an oil gallery in the block, right below the pump.

This is what he talking about...
Image2.jpg
Image1.jpg
 
Wow, I probably could have gone my whole life without noticing that. Cool, thanks.

If thats the inlet fitting does the oil just drain into the timing case?
 
-Are fuel conditioners necessary? if so, what is a good brand, Howes?

I use 2 stroke oil to aid fuel lubricity. I pick up 10-packs of oil at the local hardware store. (They are the small bottles used to mix with 2.5 gallons of gasoline.) I dump one bottle in when I fill the tank with diesel. There are some scientific studies/reports out there about biodiesel and other lubricity additives. Two cycle oil works really well and is cheaper than most other options in my area.
 
keving,

regarding fuel conditioners, i concur with rufusthedufus and use 2 stroke oil as an additive at the pump.

regarding 3B engines in general, if you are a first time owner i would suggest that you might want to consider the following:

1) on a high mileage engine, consider replacing the connecting rod bearings. they are fairly inexpensive pieces, relatively easy to access and replace (just remove the oil pan) and a sound preventative measure...get them before they get you!

2) check the wear on the underside (where the pushrod hits) of each rocker arm in the rocker assembly. again, relatively easy to access once you remove the rocker cover (a.k.a. valve cover). if the previous owner/s were not up on maintenance and did not keep the valve lash adjusted, then it is highly likely that there is excessive wear on the rockers where the pushrod hits. if left unchecked, a pushrod can bust a rocker arm and there goes the engine!

3) consider removing the head to check for cracks in both the precups and the head itself. replacing precups is easy and a good preventative measure. also, you would then have the opportunity to use the vastly improved factory replacement head gasket.

just my opinion...get a factory service manual and enjoy your new ride!

cheers,
 
Thanks for the great info!!

The P.O was religious with the oil changes.

So the first thing I will do is a valve adjustment (and chech for wear) and maybe later on I will drop the pan and have a looksee at them rod bearings. the engine had 355,000km on it.

I really don't want to pull the head...maybe down the road I will. And I will also use two stroke oil and maybe howes in every tank. I do will my old ford diesels and it pays for sure!
 
Had to do some maintenance on the heads of my 3B so I pulled off some rod caps and main caps to check the bearings. Used plasti gauge as there were no visible signs of excess wear etc, Much to my surpise the clearances spec'd out within tolerances for a rebuild/new engine. All on an engine with 480,000Km's on it....

Tony
 
Toyota switched from three cam bearings to five cam bearings in later 3B's... this makes me think that the 3 bearing cams were a weak link in the original design.

Case in point, similar to Kynot62, I checked the bearings clearances in my 82 3B and everything was like new. But the cam bearings were completely destroyed.

Anyway, I wouldn't tear apart anything unless you have symptoms of something being wrong.
 
Forgot to mention that my cam was worn out to the point of needing a rebuild and yes the bearing material was mostly in the pan...

Tony
 
Is my 85 considered a later 3B? Im afraid to check the cam bearings now hahaha
Any other differences with and 85 compared to an early one?

Also, how reliable are the glow plug controllers on these things? I usually install a manual switch and HD relay to power glow plugs on older diesels that I drive due to controller failure. This one seems fine so far.
 
Im afraid to check the cam bearings now hahaha


Obviously, all the information gathered here and there on this forum are very interesting. However, you must take and left some.

There is a large mass of 3B owner here. The law of statistics inevitably will resurface some horrible problems. Personally, I have a 3B w/260 000km and it drop a precup while another with 600 000km never had that kind of problem.

Do not be worried. If your 3B drive fine without bizarre or abnormal performance ... let it all together and just keeps in mind the recommendations mentioned above.

Keep the faith in your 3B.
 
Obviously, all the information gathered here and there on this forum are very interesting. However, you must take and left some.

There is a large mass of 3B owner here. The law of statistics inevitably will resurface some horrible problems. Personally, I have a 3B w/260 000km and it drop a precup while another with 600 000km never had that kind of problem.

Do not be worried. If your 3B drive fine without bizarre or abnormal performance ... let it all together and just keeps in mind the recommendations mentioned above.

Keep the faith in your 3B.

x2.

Drive and enjoy your engine, learn its sounds, its feels, etc. Damage of the order that will actually stop a 3B is uncommon, especially before 300k. When something needs attention there will be signs.

Except for precups; thats an act of god and there is nothing you can do. :D
 
Drive and enjoy is just what I plan on doing.
I don't abuse things, and keep them maintained so I hope to get many more miles out of it. Anybody ever see a 3B with a million clicks on the clock?
I have a mercedes 240D that is well on its way!


And how acurate are the 60's gauges such as the temp and oil pressure gauge?
I remember driving a bj74 with a oil gauge that always read VERY low, but the actuall pressue was just fine according to the aftermarket gauge the owner later installed
 
My oil gauge will read zero at idle once it is hot even though a mechanical gauge hooked to the block indicates 12 psi. (Factory Manual says 4psi is acceptable)

Original oil pressure gauges are not very reliable. They are really an idiot light with a needle...

Tony
 

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