3B Oil Pressure???

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by Eric Winkworth, Jun 28, 2005.

  1. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    Well since I have bought my truck, the pressure gauge has been on the frits, usally when I start it, it reads about half, making no difference whether it is at idle or reved up. It usally slowly lowers until it reads almost nothing. I sure do hope that it is just the gauge.

    I need fix the sending unit or whatever is making this happen, also I would like to see with a real mechnical gauge what the real oil pressure is, can you just pick something like that up from a local auto parts store? Also I'm not to sure where the sending unit is located, a picture would be great if anyone could take one for me.

    I would also like to clean out the screen someone mentioned, I'm tempted to take it to toyota, but the old girl is in need of a new sliding window that is going to cost about 400 bucks, so needless to say I would rather fix it myself if I can.

    Any help would be great
    Eric
     
  2. David*BJ70

    David*BJ70 Looking forward to reach the end of the world

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    The oil sending presur unit is between (roughly) the oil fliter and the alternator on the engine block. It’s a little (look like) bell. Need a 14mm key. You can buy one at toyota dealer but $$ and NAPA ±100$ (CAN). but you can also buy one in a junk yard from a early 4runner or supra.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2005
  3. David*BJ70

    David*BJ70 Looking forward to reach the end of the world

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    Waiting for mechanic oil sender pictures too...
     
  4. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    for the sliding window, i think Stoney might have an extra.

    for the oil pressure guage problem, the Toyota gauges are crap good for an idea only. i would recommend getting a mech installed. it is easy enough to do yourself if you are mech inclined at all.
    the sending unit is right behind the alternator and down. it is a bell shaped unit. yours will probably have 2 pressure sensors, one is for the low oil shut down and the other is for pressure guage.
    in behind the bell there is a place for a 14 MM open end wrench. turn away and usually only a drop or 2 of oil falls out when this is removed (engine off, duh).
    the biggest concern is finding the right thread to install the new mech guage. what i did was buy the tap to fit the new sender and retap the hole. the difference is ver minute but enough the new gauge will not fit.
    put grease on the tap to catch any filelings and only go a few turns at a time and test the new adapter and then tap again till the adapter thread goes about 1/2 way in. teflon tape the threads and install the adapter.
    run the plastic line into the cab through the rubber grommet wear all the elec goes. i went to Greggs and bought the softer line (cheap and doesn't kink as easy but still oil resilient) and in the engine compartment i ran a larger rubber hose as a sheath for over the line to protect it from kinking or geting near a place of wear. if that line gets a hole in it you will drain 8 L in seconds with the engine running.
    (shamless plug) mount your gauge in one of my adapters for the dash and you might as well run a pyro and water guage at the same time (shamless plug)
    and you hook everything up according to the directions and you are done.
    acurrate readings make for a less stressful drive.
    cheers
     
  5. lowenbrau

    lowenbrau

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  6. Island Moose

    Island Moose

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    Guys, are we all in agreement that Wayne should have a digital camera surgically-implanted? I wish I lived in Calgary...no wait...that's crazy-talk...I wish you lived on the Island.

    Eric, my truck doesn;t even have a oil pressure guage, just an idiot light. Only thing I have is speedo and water temp.
     
  7. wesintl

    wesintl

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  8. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    Good crossover! Amazing what is missed when time limits what sections to check...

    Yes, as the one thread indicates...BSP is the correct thread. Get the adapter if you don't want to tap the thread.

    Some say take the most rearward plug for your gauge, as this is the farthest from the oil pump and gives the worst case reading. If you run a turbo get an adapter and run it from the most forward plug, as this is closest to the oil pump.

    gb
     
  9. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    wesintl
    IH8MUD Addict




    Join Date: Mar 2003
    Location: Denver
    Posts: 937


    #9 THanks for those parts #'s. I had tried a 1/8 npt and it's not tapered enough on my bj70. the threads are right I just couldn't get it started. Thanks to the mudders out there!!

    __________________
    76FJ40, 85BJ70, Jetta TDI, Camry
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    this is what i was talking about...
    cheers
     
  10. Stone

    Stone Moderator

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    Hi Wayne:

    The sliding windows for the FRP top for the BJ74 (or equivalent) are different from the sliders on the hardtop BJ70s. I found this out because when mine was broken into, I tried fitting a BJ70 one from G&S's stock before you graciously offered yours. They were quite different, IRC.

    G&S would also probably have some kicking around...

    Cheers.

    BTW, my oil pressure gauge also does almost the same. When it's cold, the pressure indication is just above the first hash mark about 1/3 of the way up. When it's hot and at idle, the needle sits just above the bottom. All of the BJ74s that I've seen seem to do the same thing, and I think G&S have done an oil pressure check and found the pressures more than adequate.
     
  11. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    ooops, for some reason i was thinkingyour was a BJ70 (too early in the morning)..
    the guage eadings are probably close to correct since the oil pressure is much higher when cold than at operating temp...
    cheers
     
  12. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    I'm not sure in 3B engine .. but in my 2H I conect a mecanical ( very cheap ) oil pressure gauge, adapting the stock oil pipe from the stock oir press sensor. Is the right side of my 2H over starter.
     
  13. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    So the Oil Sending Unit Adapter Kit 1/8" x 28BSP (Most Japanese Cars)
    BP44 from amsoil

    what guage will that fit?

    which mechnical gauge should I get?

    just curious what you gusy have had experience with
     
  14. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    think I will have any luck locating a 14 MM open end wrench is that just a regular wrench or some specialy toyota tool(sorry for my ignorence)?

    now for the machnical gauge, anyone out there preferrably in canada that sells one that will look goo in the old BJ?

    I am also interested in getting a mechnical coolent temp gauge, where do you install those? I would like to get both the same kind of guage, do you guys just mount them on the drivers side piller?
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2005
  15. brownbear

    brownbear Mod in Hibernation Moderator

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    1/8 BSP. now When I hook up my pressure line to my turbo, what tee do you use? have the one end of the pressure line BSP and the other going into the turbo size.

    what have others done?
     
  16. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    Ok, I just got everything I need, well I thought I did, I took off the old electric sending unit and a few drops of oil came out, now I am trying to thread the new 1/8 NPT thread adapter into the 20 year old block, I am thinking I need a break now that I feel like pulling out my hair.

    The sending unit that came out of the block looks 100% the same I don't understand it, hummmm

    It is in a very bitch place to try and tap it, I have a 1/8" NPT 27 threads per inch tap so I am assuming I am going to need to use it
     
  17. crushers

    crushers post ho

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    i tried to tell yah...
    it eally isn't hard at all, you removing a very little amount of material... make sure you ut grease on the tap to catch and shavings...
    cheers and good luck...
     
  18. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    lol, It just couldn't be that easy I thought as I tried to put the new adapter into the block, after 20 mins I thought maybe I should use the tap, but I couldn't get even the small tap driver in there so I had to use a small open ended wrench. Finally, well the 6' of line came up jus short so I am going to have to get a longer piece, ahh well. I was going to go with copper but it seems to me it might short out er something, prolly better to stick with the plastic, and rap it up as you said crusher.

    funny how the guy that restores Land Cruisers knows everything, man I wish I had the motovation to move over a few provinces and come work with ya, I think it would be an absolute blast. Everytime I do something to my truck I realize how much fun and how well engineered these things really are to work on. I also know it has only just begun!!!

    At work yesterday (I work on the frame line) a fellow driving a brand new sterling off the end of the line, with a smaller series mercedes benz diesel, stall it and after I sat there listening to him crank the motor for a minute straight stop then go again, I got up off my break and went over and told him he just took half the life out of the starter, and the thing is either out of diesel or has a bubble or something in the pump, I said bleed it, he was like ya easy to say, I said "easy to do" as I opened the hood to prime it I soon realized the pump isn't very well placed, I said "looks like you need to pull the motor to prime the pump what a excellent feature, better call the tow truck." I walked back over to my land cruiser just waiting for me, and sat back down on my hydralic spring seat.

    thanks guys
    cheers
     
  19. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    Or get the BSP adapter and be done with it...

    gb
     
  20. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    I had a local shop source the adapter from the block BSP to the AXT oil line fittings. I simply went in with a plug from the oil gallery and the oil supply line. Any HD diesel shop or hydrolic shop should be able to source what you need bb.

    gb
    Oil Fitting Adapter.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2005
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