3B Mysterious Squeaking noise? (Not belt squeal) (1 Viewer)

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Apr 5, 2020
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Calgary, AB
I own an 85 BJ60 up here in canada and for the past year or so, the engine has been making an incredibly irritating squeaking noise upon engine braking, or accelerating under load. also it happens if you maintain a very specific throttle position when the engine is just sitting in neutral.

I've tried everything I can think of; I replaced my intake manifold gasket but it still makes the sound.

It sounds like its coming from the rear of the engine bay; somewhat on the side with the intake manifold.

Does anyone know what this could be? I tried spraying an aeresol can around the entirity of the intake manifold, but nothing caused it to rev up at all. This is incredibly annoying, and I'm hoping one of the far more knowledgeable members of mud can help me solve this.

Here is a youtube video of the sound if that helps anyone.

Thanks in advance!
 
Joined
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Calgary, AB
I would be checking the exhaust manifold, guessing you dont have a turbo


Yeah, no turbo.

Took off the exhaust manifold heat shield just now, and the rear two bolts that used to hold the manifold on, both have sheared off.

Any tips for how I can remedy that situation? Also, what should I do to remove the other 6 bolts/nuts without them shearing off too?

Thanks for your help!
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Joined
Aug 7, 2012
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soak them in penetrating oil best you can and then just undo them, if they break deal with them with the manifold off. Once manifold is off you can usually weld a nut to them to take them out, the heat helps loosen then as well as holding nut there
 
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Vancouver, Canada
Maybe you can take a propane torch to them now before risking breaking them off.

Half the bolts holding my exhaust manifold on were loose. The others were a little tight and I have one left to crack, the bottom one in the back. My exhaust pipe sheared right off just under the flange with the manifold so I'll weld it back up and clean everything and paint with rustoleum high heat paint. Check that you have the bracket on the vertical part and that it is firmly attached. Yesterday I bought a flex joint from napa which I'll weld in the exhaust pipe where it goes horizontal. This engine really vibrates while idling so anything to help isolate that is good I think.
 
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Thanks guys, I will give that a shot! I've got an exhaust leak in the seam of the pipe right below the passenger floorpan, so I might just get a new head pipe installed while I'm at it.

Is there any easy way to get at the bolts for the rear cylinder with a drill? The cowl kind of curves around it and prevents me from easily accessing those bolts. :)
 
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Finland
I would be checking the exhaust manifold, guessing you dont have a turbo
No, it can’t be exhaust manifold.

How about throttle venturi valve, what the correct name is?, that flap and the axle of it which you move by hand in the video.
 
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No, it can’t be exhaust manifold.

I appreciate the advice; it was however the exhaust manifold that was the issue.

I removed the manifold and removed the two studs that had sheared off with an extractor, replaced them, and put it back on. Problem is now solved!

Thanks everyone for the help! Squeaking is gone and it sounds so much better.

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Joined
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I tried to get my last bolt out this evening, the on the bottom in the back behind the exhaust pipe flange (in the shadow in the above photo). Is that some kind of a sick joke by Toyota engineers? How the heck am I supposed to get any leverage on it?? Of course it's one that's super tight. I used a swivel fitting and a ratchet but do dice. If that one ends up breaking there's no way I'm going to be able to get an extractor in it.
 
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I found I had to unbolt the bracket for the rear heater line to give me some clearance, and then I managed to get enough socket extensions on that I could use a breaker bar.

for drilling out that rear bottom stud to get the extractor in, I used one of those 90 degree Ryobi drills.

Hopefully it doesn't end up needing to be drilled. I'll be crossing my fingers on your behalf :p
 
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Thanks for the advice. Is that one of the ones that broke on you?

In your photo it looks like your exhaust pipe flange is below that bolt. But on mine it is just barely above it so it interferes with the socket and extensions. Or is that just the perspective of the photo making it look that way?
 
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Thanks for the advice. Is that one of the ones that broke on you?

Yeah, the rear two broke off for me. The bottom one snapped flush with the outer bit of the manifold, and it was only finger tight, so it was easy to remove. The top rear bolt is what I had to use with the extractor.

Not sure if this image adds more detail, but on mine the flange didn't quite get in the way. I used one of those slightly swively socket extensions with a fairly shallow 14mm, if I remember correctly I threaded the socket between the firewall heat shield and the down pipe.

It might also work better for you if you take off the downpipe first, and pull it down or something. You'll need a ~3 foot long socket extension, and you'll want to unbolt the exhaust from the bracket that is attached to the bell housing.

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Joined
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That one bolt in the back was tight and I rounded the head. So the only thing I could do was grind off the head until the manifold was free. That was a lot of fun.... :rolleyes:

It's good our property is fairly large so the neighbors didn't have to listen to me. WTH Toyota, what were you thinking? Look up... waaaaay up...

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Luckily I had a set of these dremel bits I bought from Amazon before I boycotted the site.

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Only problem is, the shaft is not quite thick enough to grab in the dremel... so I had to wrap it in tinfoil which lasted anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes. In all I got about 10 minutes of grinding in which got it 90% removed. All in all they're pretty good at eating through metal, not sure it they're cost effective tho... Then I got out my remaining stone bits and finished it off.

Then I discovered that the manifold has a huge crack in it so I'll call EBI tomorrow and see what they have. Ideally I'd like to not put a stock manifold back on since the same bolt will be hidden back there again.

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The problem with these bolts is the thickness of the manifold which prevents a propane torch and PB Blaster from doing much good since it cant get through the 5/8" of metal to get to the threads. Now that the manifold is off I can get to the threads and apply heat and rust buster more effectively. And for some reason the upper 2 middle ones are studs but all the others are bolts.

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