3B forklift starter in 24V BJ70?

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Jan 7, 2016
Everett, WA
Starter on my 24V BJ70 appears to be on it's last leg. A quick search for "Toyota 3B starter" on google turns up plenty of cheap $100 dollar or so new starters that are listed for forklifts. A couple of the ads also list BJ40/70 series. Says it's 24V and 11 tooth so I'd imagine they should work/be the same yeah? Just wanted to see if anyone has gone that route previously before I buy one. Thanks.
Simple enough to have rebuilt. It's often just the contacts which would be even cheaper. Try a local Auto - electric place.

Good luck
so I'd imagine they should work/be the same yeah?

Are they 2 or 3 stud flanges? 28100-56100 This part number is one of 3 given by one of the dealers. It is for 40 and 60 series B diesels but doesn't mention 70 series.
These other 2 part numbers are for Dynas and Coasters 28100-56030, 28100-56060.

I would try and find out whats wrong with yours and take it from there. I suppose its cooling down up your way:hmm:.
Starter contacts at lordco: Wilson 45-29-6522 less than $10
Plunger: Wilson 45-29-6452 $12

Can't make those numbers work.

I wonder if there is a Wilson starter product number for this application? They make a ton of heavy industy/agricultural starters.

Personally I'd take it to a good grungy, old school starter/alternator shop. Those guys blow me away - it's like the Hogwarts of electricity. If they can't fix you up I'd be amazed.
Sorry I didn’t realize those part numbers come from a smaller parts store chain you probably don’t have. But they are available and from the dealer as well I believe.
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Come to find out, I don't think the starter is my issue. I'm only getting 12V to the starter.

Does anyone know if there's a switch that controls power to the starter?

Or perhaps my batteries are connected incorrectly. Currently each battery has its own ground at the battery tray, and on the engine block, and the positive wire from the secondary battery is attached to the positive terminal on the primary battery. This doesn't make sense to me. Should the power lead from the secondary battery also be attached at the starter post? That would put 24v at the starter, and the small signal wire gets 12v, right? This makes sense in my head but I could be way off.
Also to clarify, I thought my starter was faulty because I had slow cranking. Always cranked, no empty clicks, so don't think it's a solenoid contact issue like most are suggesting. The slow crank would make sense if my starters only getting 12v instead of 24 yeah?
I got mine from a boat place .... I swapped the nose cone so it would clock right to fit in my 1982 BJ42

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