3B EDIC Woes - "Funky Chicken" Help - SOLVED (1 Viewer)

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FloridaFJ80

Roaming Land Cruiser Heaven
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Hello,

I recently acquired a 1985 BJ70 and am experiencing issues with the EDIC. I have searched on mud for threads explaining similar symptoms and here is what I have done to troubleshoot.

Symptoms:
Hard Cold Start - I have to "pump" the gas a few times while I crank the first time for 2-3 seconds cranking, i stop don't close the switch and crank again this time pumping some more and she then starts up. I hear the relay on the PS foot board clicking. I read on @AlbertoSD build thread where he had a bad contact with a power bar. 1985 BJ70 Story and Modifications I am new to 3B's so any idea where and how I can troubleshoot this.


Day driving: During the day while normal operation it operates with the occasional relay click and the engine hesitation or cutoff then it resumes normal operation. Happens ever so often can be tolerated.

Night driving: Relay clicks every 15-20 seconds maybe less. Only way to drive normally at night is to unplug the relay completely and the funky chicken stops completely.

Troubleshooting:

I read on some threads where the relay clicking could be or is tied to voltage of some kind. Where there could be a bad ground, or bad brushes on the alternator. So I checked all of my grounds (4 of them) and they all look ok, nice and tight not too corroded.

I then checked voltage at the batts I have 2 of them but I am 12v (still trying to understand how they are hooked up).

Engine off: 12.66v Batt 1 (DS) 12.67v Batt 2 (PS)
Initial readings Engine running lights off: 12.88v Batt1 12.88v Batt 2
1st Reading Engine Running Lights on: 12.91v Batt 1 12.93v Batt 2
Reading at alternator 13.35v
2nd Reading Engine Running Lights on: 13.01v Batt 1 13.02v Batt 2
Reading at alternator 13.31v

One thing I noticed was that the relay would click faster with the lights on than with the lights off.

Here is a video of EDIC with the lights on.



I also noticed that this hose is just hanging dont know if the other end is supposed to plugged in some where.

Well I wanted to see if any of the 3b gurus can help. I appreciate in advance your reply.

Cheers

IMG_3854.JPG
 
Forgot to also say that the Oil pressure guage doesnt mark much, its buried and it will barely go up to the first line while in normal operation.
 
Given that it happens more often with the lights on I'd say its likely going to be an earthing issue.. I would remake the earth to your engine block and see if it resolves the problem
 
Thanks @duncanrm @gerg @AlbertoSD

As I continue read other threads, I am leaning more and more to a bad ground some where. I have ordered new battery terminals and making new ground cables, and will be wire wheeling the block surface as well. Will post up results after I do.

Can you guys elaborate a little more on where these EDIC contacts are? The EDIC is the solenoid with the metal rod in the video correct? These contacts are behind it? is it a harness or are the contacts bolted to the EDIC. Pardon my ignorance, I am well versed with the 80 series and 1FZ but I am in a new realm with the 3B.

Also whats the rated output of the stock 3B alternator? Any wiring schematics on how the 2 batteries are wired to the Alternator. Wanting to add a winch, just dont know which batt to plug into. Are both batteries mains?

Thanks in advance.
 
It's a bad ground or a chaffed / cut wire that is touching metal. Look real closely (in all places) where the wiring harness rests against the frame or metal - make sure the wire housing has not rubbed and exposed a wire. I've had both scenarios cause funky chicken on an H and 2H diesel.
 
Thanks @duncanrm @gerg @AlbertoSD

As I continue read other threads, I am leaning more and more to a bad ground some where. I have ordered new battery terminals and making new ground cables, and will be wire wheeling the block surface as well. Will post up results after I do.

Can you guys elaborate a little more on where these EDIC contacts are? The EDIC is the solenoid with the metal rod in the video correct? These contacts are behind it? is it a harness or are the contacts bolted to the EDIC. Pardon my ignorance, I am well versed with the 80 series and 1FZ but I am in a new realm with the 3B.

Also whats the rated output of the stock 3B alternator? Any wiring schematics on how the 2 batteries are wired to the Alternator. Wanting to add a winch, just dont know which batt to plug into. Are both batteries mains?

Thanks in advance.

Good advice by all and most likely cause. Where you've started is great..then move forward if needed.

3B in a cradle (EDIC wiring question) Shows the EDIC Motor

The EDIC and Fuel Control Relay also are linked into the oil pressure system. Make sure that's not an issue and is on the edge of parameters. Hooking up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to check things out is good baseline.

Pull the connection plug apart that goes to the EDIC and clean up the contact points, dialectic grease, then plug back together.

All the neutral work you are doing is good: Between the frame, engine block and batteries.

Download the FSM as it will have a lot of the information to help you trouble shoot: online manuals

Once you've have the neutrals cleaned up and if still doing it, move to the...

Fuel Control Relay (or find it now) make sure the connections are good and internals have not been getting water in them (the BJ42's were located by the glovebox and positioned that leaks could drip into the box). Not sure where your's is but: where can i find to the fuel control relay and a search using "Fuel Control Relay" will give lots of reading.

If all that fails it may be the contact plate or brushes inside the EDIC motor itself.

Stock 12V Cdn spec 1985 BJ70 alternator is not a lot...somewhere between 40 and 55 amps iirc.

It was a mind twist when I got my 1st 3B years ago...your foot is hooked up to a butterfly valve at the intake manifold which creates a pressure differential at the diaphragm which is on the backside of the injection pump. 3B, turbos and more fuel, thought on getting rid of a governor

hth's
gb
 
Well I started my ground cable swap. The DS ground point on the block was pretty rusty and the old battery terminals just sucked. I also updated the battery terminals on both batteries. The PS ground point on the block was loose and it had oil on it. All took a flap disc to each point on the block and cleaned it up really good. I really hope this fixes my issues. Fingers crossed. Also I figured out my 12v batts were connected in parallel as well. Here are some pictures of the progress should have it done by today.

IMG_3881.JPG
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IMG_3883.JPG
IMG_3884.JPG
IMG_3885.JPG
 
put some dielectric greese on those connections.

Will do!

Well to report initial tests. Finished up the setup, everything is hooked up, then went to start the truck. First impressions, starter turns a lot faster than before, night and day difference. Went for a 20 minute test drive with the lights on and not once did the relay click nor did I experience the funky chicken. Looked at the rod like the video and no movement whatsoever. So I would have to say that initial tests are positive and issue has been fixed. knock on wood!

Thanks to all for their advice and input.

Another one for the books!
 

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