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3B Diesel - cylider head installation

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by darkman, Oct 2, 2003.

  1. darkman

    darkman

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    I have just received the "Geoff Walsh" cylider head for my 3B, and I have a couple of questions before I install.

    He head came with a list of hints and suggestion regarding proper fitting. These instructions seem quite straight forward except for the following:

    1. The list of hints states that it is a good idea to coat the head gasket with copper coat or a similar product. What is "copper coat"?

    2. Also, I quote ... "all the air must be bled from out of the water system, with heater left on open circuit, air risers on cylider head, "bleed!"".
    I'm not sure what they mean here. I don't recognize the terminology "air risers". Nothing is mentioned in my manual about this. What is the best method to bleed the water system, and what exactly are the air risers?

    Any other advise regarding this installation would be appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I installed a Geoff Walsh head last year on my '82 BJ60. I did not coat the head gasket with anything. I was advised by those in the know out here in B.C. NOT to coat it! As for bleeding the coolant what they are trying to say is GET ALL THE AIR OUT. It will tend to collect in the head as it is the highest point in the system. What I did was park my truck facing steeply uphill for a few days when I parked it for a while (drive it and park facing uphill - repeat) so all the air would get out to the rad. Keep the coolant overflow full, keep checking the rad and topping it up until it won't take any more. Leave the heaters on full blast to get the air out of them as well until you cannot top up the rad anymore. It might take you two or three days of warm up from overnight to full operating temp to expel all the air. Make SURE YOU FOLLOW THE TORQUE VALUES AND PATTERN when fastening down the head.
    You may also wish to paint the head as they are not painted at all. Mine has a patina of rust due to lack of paint (it'll stop soon once the oil coats the head as it does everything else in an engine bay).
     
  3. darkman

    darkman

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    I was wondering about bleeding the coolant system from the plugs in the water jacket on each end of the head itself ... any thoughts on this?
     
  4. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I would not bother, 1) the thermostat housing is higher so the air will collect there first, 2) how are you going to get the plug back in without the water leaking out?, 3) the heaters connect into at least one of those plugs some years use both.
    If you park pointed steeply uphill the air is all going to the rad. top tank where you can get it out easily.