37s on a 70? (1 Viewer)

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BDSeff1fitty

1987 Toyota 4Runner
Joined
Nov 12, 2008
Threads
158
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1,932
Location
Gulf Shores, Alabama
Been looking at picking up a 73 series in the near future if i can find the right truck.

Knowing i can't leave well enough alone and what i ultimately want, that means 37's and SOA like my FJ40 had.
Honest use for the vehicle is mild offroad and mall crawling so definitely over kill for my actual use of the vehicle but that's what i want if i decide to pick up a 73.

Based on the vehicles i'm looking at, i'm hesistant to go chop the thing up if they won't fit and kill the value.

Been looking through the forums, facebook and online searches to see if they can be fit without chopping up the body or where the rub is. If it's as simple as an extended bump stop and picking a wheel with the correct backspacing that's ok. Just wanting to avoid cutting up a nice body.

Has anyone gone down this route and have any feedback that would help me understand what can and can't fit without surgery of the body?

Thanks in advance.
 
IMO Surgery is needed. I have 35's and they are a little touch and go. Front axle moved for 20mm, front guards chopped somewhere around 50mm and they still just touch. Rear is stock but they rub slightly on big hits. My rig is SUA and set for flex/offroading. Could drop the bumpstops and move axle forward and be close to OK.
 
You'd need to lift a 70 series a LONG way up to clear 37s without chopping some sheetmetal. Then you have the problem that the 70 series is a fairly narrow track so it'll be hell tippy without dodgy amounts of extra width. Plus there is the problem that no old 73 has a motor that can turn a set of 37's with any authority.

To fit my Simexs which are an honest 36" I have cut about 50mm from the outer edges of the guards, basically chopped out the downturn at the edge. (the LJ7* front is a bit different to other 70s though) 75mm bumpstop spacers rear, 40mm front. Rear axle ~20mm back, front axle ~25mm forward. Using ~180mm wider axles.

Cheers
Clint
 

Awl righttt... let's do this!

35's are the minimum tire size for a 70 series. They fit with almost no lift. reverse the front main leafs to move the axle forward a few inches. that is the magic so the tires clear the body. The wheel wells themselves are designed, from the factory, to perfectly fit a 37" tire.

One of my BJ74's, Zed, has skinny 36's on stock suspension with no body mods (currently running 9.00R16's ~36"). Looks great, no rubbing. Use bump stops to prevent rubbing.
Another one of my BJ74's, Zee, has a Dakar lift kit and 35" tires. The tires look way to small for the truck, with giant embarassing gaps between the top of the wheel and bottom of the fender. Like a plumber's ass, no one wants to see that
I ran 39.5's on Ziplock the BJ74 on a flat spring over with 1.5" cut to the fenders. When I originally built the Spring over, I had 38" tires for it. they were so small, it was as embarrassing as driving a 100 series. It was upgraded to 39.5" Iroks before it even left the shop. That was an awesome combination.
I am currently rebuilding Ziplock for 42's. LOTS of mods this time.
 
With the soa you should have no problems clearing the 37’s.
I run 40’s on my 73 but have done a 3 link in the front and 4 link in the rear and sacrificed a bunch of sheetmetal in this one.
 
It can be done without much cosmetic surgery but in my case, nearly everything below the leaf springs was not 70 series.

Expedition BJ74 Buildup

 
Had a little extra time and some old school 37/12.50 15 mtr’s in deep storage, so why not.

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Hello,

What about going SOA with those tires?





Juan
 
I’ll go with Behemoth60 ‘s main spring flip advice and bump stops. Keeping it low for garage access.
 
Those look pretty good on there! How is the clearance when articulating and/or turning? I had to remove my front mudflaps for 35" never mind 37"!
 
I’ve had as big as 38.5’s on my SOA without any cutting. I have my front leafs flipped to push the front axle ever so slightly but that’s about it.
 
So to be clear a solution is to reverse front springs and this will move axle forward same as drilling new holes in perch 1” back? Looks like there are 2 schools of thought. Which causes least issues? I want to run my 35’s from my 80 sometimes.
 
So to be clear a solution is to reverse front springs and this will move axle forward same as drilling new holes in perch 1” back? Looks like there are 2 schools of thought. Which causes least issues? I want to run my 35’s from my 80 sometimes.

I can clear narrow 35’s on my 77 with ome lift so long as I flip the front springs and extend the bump stops.
 

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