35's (1 Viewer)

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@Fishbulb
To save me going through your build thread, what are you running right now?

I’ve got 31x10.5 and am thinking up upping my game to 33x10.5. I’ve got an auto as well, with no re-gear in my future!
 
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285/75R16's and auto in the 77 and I'm exploring regearing as well. Sumo 10% underdrive is currently the idea. It's a heavy beast and going over the pass here is where I need help.

Sumo
 
What did you re-gear to? I assume your 1HZ is normally aspirated (like mine)
Rookie wrencher here, so I can't remember... just get in touch with Georg at Cruiser Brothers, great dude. He sold me the Terrain Tamer kit that had all the right pieces and was more than generous answering any questions me or my mechanic buddy had concerning the rebuild. The difference is huge, and my troopy literally feels born again happy. I would advise to anyone going up to 33's, especially 35's, to include the cost of this in your tire size change. Not cheap, just totally necessary with our non turbo donkey engines. Takes the torque right back to original.
 
Turbo and looser converter will transform that Cruiser with or without 35’s
 
@Fishbulb
To save me going through your build thread, what are you running right now?

I’ve got 31x10.5 and am thinking up upping my game to 33x10.5. I’ve got an auto as well, with no re-gear in my future!
I'm currently running 33x10.5 BFG AT's. It feels just slightly sluggish. I also have 17 pound alloy wheels which I assume help free up some rotational mass.
 
Rookie wrencher here, so I can't remember... just get in touch with Georg at Cruiser Brothers, great dude. He sold me the Terrain Tamer kit that had all the right pieces and was more than generous answering any questions me or my mechanic buddy had concerning the rebuild. The difference is huge, and my troopy literally feels born again happy. I would advise to anyone going up to 33's, especially 35's, to include the cost of this in your tire size change. Not cheap, just totally necessary with our non turbo donkey engines. Takes the torque right back to original.
When changing out the high range TC input and output gears to the Sumo UD ones does the TC have to be removed or can the back plate just be removed and the gears can then be taken out?
 
When changing out the high range TC input and output gears to the Sumo UD ones does the TC have to be removed or can the back plate just be removed and the gears can then be taken out?
if you want to change any gears in the transfer case you have to remove the back half of the case.
 
That might be something that I can caveman my way through. I've been trying to find a tutorial or instructions online, but I've been unsuccessful.
I’ve rebuilt my tcase once in the vehicle and then disassembled it again a couple years later when i changed my h55f out.

While not terrible to do in the vehicle, it’s definitely easier to do outside and on the ground or workbench.

It’s not hard to do the tcase rebuild but you will need a press or know someone and some pullers. Other than that pretty straight forward and easy.

If you are going 3:1 or 4:1 you have to make some mods/grinding to the case 1/2. I would recommend @orangefj45 for that.

As for videos:



Another one, different person/angle



This thread has tons of info on split case. The first part has a lot of info then more tech and videos come through.

some h55f and split case tech - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/some-h55f-and-split-case-tech.600279/
 
That all depends ……. Stock 4.10 diff gears!
How’s the vehicle being utilized?
Do you take it offroad?
Carrying additional weight?

No matter what you do, I’d HIGHLY recommend running an aux trans cooler if the cruiser doesn’t have one already.

Happy to help!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
 
35s get very stuffed in the wheel wells, on any kind of flexing offroad. I just removed my 35x10.50r17. 35x12.50 are even worse.
 
How’s the vehicle being utilized?

Best question asked so far, right there. Without that data, the question of gearing is premature, and can't really be answered with any accuracy.

That being said: if you're going to hit some terrain where you'll actually need 35's, you're going to want every bit of gear you can stuff into her.
 
35s get very stuffed in the wheel wells, on any kind of flexing offroad.

That they do. The problem is that most people don't cycle their suspensions to find out where the pinch points are before they let the tires figure it out for them. Nor do they adjust caster angles, or take the time to figure out their scrub radius and then adjust the wheel to realign the tire contact patch with the kingpin axis. Some people will install heavier steering and bigger brakes, and a few will beef the axles...but for the most part, people throw on a set of springs and some big tires and call it done. And then they start wondering why they're breaking stuff, and why the rig steers like a barge.

I just removed my 35x10.50r17. 35x12.50 are even worse.

That's a weird size. I've seen them, but not often. The sidewalls tend to do... unsettling things.
 

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