35's on Steelies (1 Viewer)

[cleophis1975]

I'm looking to add to my tire size. I'm currently running 285's on the stock wheels but I'd like to move up to 315's on some steelies. What should I be looking for as far as wheel width? Also, I'm willing to move to a 17" wheel if that helps my case. Just needing some advice before I start spending money.

 

[jonheld]

Procomp makes black steel rims 16x8 with a 4" back spacing that I used for weld on beadlocks with 36" Swampers.
However, there are more tire choices in a 17" rim.

 

[MickeyB]

Why you wanting to go to 315s?

 

[Squeegee]

Why would you want steelies?

 

[COYS]

Why would you want steelies?

Heavy. Inconsistent run out. Looks timeless and truck appropriate though.

 

[MickeyB]

Why would you want steelies?

And there cheap that’s prolly another reason why.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Why would you want steelies?

Fixable on the trail.

What should I be looking for as far as wheel width?

OEM Toyota 70 series 16” steelies are ideal. Next best are OEM Toyota FJ Cruiser 17” steelies (will need 1” spacers if running tires wider than 11.5”).

 

[LandLocked93]

Fixable on the trail.

+1
Maybe not fixable 100% of the time, but 100% more fixable than alloy or aluminum.

 

[Squeegee]

Fixable on the trail.

OEM Toyota 70 series 16” steelies are ideal. Next best are OEM Toyota FJ Cruiser 17” min steelies.

I’m definitely not an OG. But I’ve never heard of or seen anyone breaking a (quality made) wheel on a trail. I feel like a wheel breaking is the last thing people should be worrying about.

 

[Dusten]

I’m definitely not an OG. But I’ve never heard of or seen anyone breaking a (quality made) wheel on a trail. I feel like a wheel breaking is the last thing people should be worrying about.

Broken wheels are not uncommon.

The 80 dissent uses for images of their rear bumper is running, I think, 5th gen 4runner spare wheels.

@kem can you confirm?

 

[mudgudgeon]

I’m definitely not an OG. But I’ve never heard of or seen anyone breaking a (quality made) wheel on a trail. I feel like a wheel breaking is the last thing people should be worrying about.

Been there done that.

Running on dirt road at about 30mph, had to get off into the grass to avoid a head on with a truck that came around a corner taking up way more road than was available.

Two punctures, and one destroyed alloy wheel.
They were on a grey JDM import, so no chance of matching a replacement.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'm looking to add to my tire size. I'm currently running 285's on the stock wheels but I'd like to move up to 315's on some steelies. What should I be looking for as far as wheel width? Also, I'm willing to move to a 17" wheel if that helps my case. Just needing some advice before I start spending money.

For 315s, don't go any wider than an 8" rim.

Too wide a rim means the bead is susceptible to being broken loose on the trail, or getting debris and rubbish caught in the bead causing slow leaks

 

[kem]

@Dusten you are correct, 5th Gen 4runner 17" steelies are what we run on our 60 & 80

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@Dusten you are correct, 5th Gen 4runner 17" steelies are what we run on our 60 & 80

View attachment 3069566

View attachment 3069567

Which are identical to FJ Cruiser and Tacoma 17” steelies.

 

[Rouleur]

Heavy. Inconsistent run out. Looks timeless and truck appropriate though.

FJC Steelies are 27lbs, about as much as most cheap mall crawlers. Plus you can add weight to the outside of the wheel for better runout, and you can touch up with black paint to match. And they look baller.

 

[COYS]

FJC Steelies are 27lbs, about as much as most cheap mall crawlers. Plus you can add weight to the outside of the wheel for better runout, and you can touch up with black paint to match. And they look baller.

Still heavier while markedly narrower with RV like inboard offset.

Still wildly inconsistent runout compared to alloys.

Last we checked, alloys can accept paint too.

Baller is as baller does.

Popular 12.5” width tire isn’t recommended to run on anything less than 8-8.5” wheel width.

 

[Rouleur]

You’re probably correct.
But the best placement for weight is on the extreme inside or outside of wheel.
I haven’t seen anybody hammering weights on the front of their alloy wheels. That’s what I was referring to.
I had my FJC‘s widened and the center bore adjusted for proper fitment.
They are as smooth and balance up as well as the fancy wheels I’ve ran.
I guess we can agree on the look.
I do enjoy your post and like your rig!
Off-topic but I think you’re an M enthusiast so I know you’ll like this!

 

[fl4031003]

I purchased a 89 e30 M3 brand new back in the day!

 

[Rouleur]

I purchased a 89 e30 M3 brand new back in the day!

I bet you wish you had that today!

 

[COYS]

You’re probably correct.
But the best placement for weight is on the extreme inside or outside of wheel.
I haven’t seen anybody hammering weights on the front of their alloy wheels. That’s what I was referring to.
I had my FJC‘s widened and the center bore adjusted for proper fitment.
They are as smooth and balance up as well as the fancy wheels I’ve ran.
I guess we can agree on the look.
I do enjoy your post and like your rig!
Off-topic but I think you’re an M enthusiast so I know you’ll like this!View attachment 3123661

All good homey. It’s documented here that my first love are the timeless D window steelie wheels and ran them for quite some time… until I got tired of not having the smoothest riding setup which is only possible with alloy wheels along with other sizing benefits given the ubiquity of lifted Tacos and 4Rs which we 80 owners benefit from.

My fav wheel company all time is BBS (BBM LMs goat) and they have the closest linkage with BMW M. I have yet another set of BBS FI-Rs en route.