35's: 2.5 in or 3 in of lift

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Apr 14, 2010
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It's time for the lift. I have a bumperless truck and am going to lift it. I'm considering the 2.5 860s alone or the 860s with trim packs. Either way I'll be running 315/75/16 KM2s. If I can effectively go 2.5 in then that's fine with me. What do you'll think. I know CRUX was/is running the 860s alone well Shotts did the 2.5 in with trim packs. What do you all think?
 
I've got 860s apparently. Probably only going go run them for a short while, then put 863s in due to drawers and gear
 
I've got 860s apparently. Probably only going go run them for a short while, then put 863s in due to drawers and gear

Do you have 35's too. I'll probably end up with the 863s too once I get my bumpers. As for now my truck will be pretty mild mannered.
 
I don't want to discourage you from running 35s but you should be sure you need the extra height. I just upgraded to 33s (Load Range E) and was very surprised at how much power they suck. At 60 the engine seems to work as hard as 70 before I got the tires. Just sayin...
 
I don't want to discourage you from running 35s but you should be sure you need the extra height. I just upgraded to 33s (Load Range E) and was very surprised at how much power they suck. At 60 the engine seems to work as hard as 70 before I got the tires. Just sayin...

my 35's did suck power but not too bad. You definitely drive different on the highway so the truck doesnt always gear down on hills
 
Plan on regearing, lowering bumpstops, adding wheel spacer, and 12mm body lift. Really think hard about what you're gonna do with the truck. If you want 35's simply because they look bad ass. That's one thing. Actually getting 35's to function on your truck is little more effort than most people think. Worrying about an extra 1/2 of lift and $160 springs is the least of your worries. If you haven't added and ARB front locker yet, budget for that too.

Ask 1Loudlx how his truck did over the mountain passes on 35's without regear. He was getting passed by VW campers and suzuki sidekicks.
 
my truck was pretty decent on the passes with 33's and bumpers/sliders.


Then I added a roof rack skidplates and 35"s. I'd be freaky lucky to hold 55 up some passes. We'll see how she does with 4.88s now on tuesday heading to Moab.
 
All good stuff to think about. My goal is to build this truck from the ground up. I am intending to make the necessary adjustments including the bumpstops. I dont want to add the spacers and based off other builds I should be fine without them as long as I stick to the 315 KM2 or ATs. Of course the 35s will look cool, but thats just and added bonus. If the 35's are too tall I ll switch out the coils and put 33's on, no big deal there. My older truck had 35s on it and it served my purpose well. Onto to the bumpstops. Im going to lower mine two inches. I know Slee sells the rear bumpstop spacers, but they advertise the spacers work for the 80's. Will they work for the 100's too. It would be easier to bolt them up rather than for me to make spacers...

As for now regearing isnt in the near future. That will come after the additional weight of the bumpers.
 
All good stuff to think about. My goal is to build this truck from the ground up. I am intending to make the necessary adjustments including the bumpstops. I dont want to add the spacers and based off other builds I should be fine without them as long as I stick to the 315 KM2 or ATs. Of course the 35s will look cool, but thats just and added bonus. If the 35's are too tall I ll switch out the coils and put 33's on, no big deal there. My older truck had 35s on it and it served my purpose well. Onto to the bumpstops. Im going to lower mine two inches. I know Slee sells the rear bumpstop spacers, but they advertise the spacers work for the 80's. Will they work for the 100's too. It would be easier to bolt them up rather than for me to make spacers...

As for now regearing isnt in the near future. That will come after the additional weight of the bumpers.

Sounds like a good plan for you. To run 315's one doesn't need spacers, body lifts and gears.

Slee's rear 80 stops will work on the 100. Some washers and longer bolts will work just as well too. ??? In fact, you might want to lower those stops only by an inch. It'll rub very little. 2-inch lowering darn near eliminates it.

Adjust those turn-stops when done up front. Enjoy your ride.

For now I'd use those trim packs on the back...if and when you bumper-up and/or add a bunch of weight back there, spring-up and sell the old ones.

Good luck to you!
 
Shotts sounds good. I never thought of the washers. If I only need about an inch with this setup then I'll do the washers. That's a good idea.
 
Am I missing something here?? trim packs??

Those are the coil spacers they sell to place atop the coils. They are usually made out of heavy duty plastic like poly urethan (if that's how u spell it or even the material used).
 
Those are the coil spacers they sell to place atop the coils. They are usually made out of heavy duty plastic like Polyurethane (if that's how u spell it or even the material used).

800px-Polyurethane.png
 
Stack of washers? How about 1x2 rectangle steel tube. There is some side load on the bumpstops.
 
or the 20mm thick spacers christo sells with the diff drop kit, if you've got some laying around.
 
Schotts would know on the KMs, but on my 315 MTRs I could not effectively run them without wheel spacers on the front. They rubbed going into a parking lot with the wheel turned. Maybe the KMs are undersized enough to work without spacers?
 
Schotts would know on the KMs, but on my 315 MTRs I could not effectively run them without wheel spacers on the front. They rubbed going into a parking lot with the wheel turned. Maybe the KMs are undersized enough to work without spacers?

Real easy fix for that. Adjusting your turn-stops. It cuts down on your radius by ever so little, but then no rubby-rubby on the upper arms.
 

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