315/75/16
315/75/16 KM2 - possible w/o rubbing?
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I think it has to do with the fact that you're pretty much 100% sure not to rub with a 285. Anything larger than that will be very much based on the individual truck and tire choice, as well as the alignment specs. For example, if you search the thread about "The Fuzz" 's 305 duratracs, he was getting crazy rubbing on the inner of his front tires on the knuckle whereas some others had no issues.
Now i'm looking toward getting a dedicated trail tire... reading and more reading..
AATLAS1X said:
If you adjust the turn stops, wheeling tight trails sucks....the 100 has an awesome turning radius until you starting adjusting those out to compensate for tire rubbing...I have adjusted them out for different renditions of my setup and hated it.
I don't know I'd this is normal, but I had rubbing in the rear this weekend with 285/75/16s, sway bar disconnected and 2.5" of lift. Seems like almost anything can rub if you don't adjust your bump stops.
You might also think about different wheels. New wheels can be offset enough so you don't need spacers and that will take care of the lock-to lock issues. But I do agree, that after the 2.5" suspension lift, you also need a body lift and/or bump stops.
I currently have 35" on 17x8.5" offset wheels and don't rub lock-to-lock, but my tires are going into my fenders on compression. I'm looking at doing a body lift of as much as 2" to fix that. I don't like bump stops because you're limiting your wheel travel and articulation, and that's what offrading is all about is wheel travel and articulation.
I currently have 35" on 17x8.5" offset wheels and don't rub lock-to-lock, but my tires are going into my fenders on compression. I'm looking at doing a body lift of as much as 2" to fix that. I don't like bump stops because you're limiting your wheel travel and articulation, and that's what offrading is all about is wheel travel and articulation.
You might also think about different wheels. New wheels can be offset enough so you don't need spacers and that will take care of the lock-to lock issues. But I do agree, that after the 2.5" suspension lift, you also need a body lift and/or bump stops.
I currently have 35" on 17x8.5" offset wheels and don't rub lock-to-lock, but my tires are going into my fenders on compression. I'm looking at doing a body lift of as much as 2" to fix that. I don't like bump stops because you're limiting your wheel travel and articulation, and that's what offrading is all about is wheel travel and articulation.
Bump stops are typically used so that your shocks are not the limiting factor of the travel. Unless the shock has a limiter built into it, you risk damaging shocks by just letting them flex until the shock stops extending....just another of many things to think about when lifting the 100...
What do you use to limit the up travel on your 100?
...wouldn't the bumpstop on both sides limit both the down and up travel? when one side is down it can only go as far as the other side can go up, right? At least that is what my simple thought process has been....I am guessing that since you asked, you figured I would not know the right answer....
....what is it??
...wouldn't the bumpstop on both sides limit both the down and up travel? when one side is down it can only go as far as the other side can go up, right? At least that is what my simple thought process has been....I am guessing that since you asked, you figured I would not know the right answer....
The shock limits the down travel
Bump stops are used limits the up travel on a 100 but most lifted 100 are not able to reach the bump stop.
See https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/327909-35-tyres-landcrusier.html thread for more info on fitment of 35's on a 100
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Using the shock as the down/extension limiter isn't typically an issue with our recreational 4x4/off-road use LC applications. Its never been an issue in over 100,000 miles with my Fox and/or Radflos.
Using the shock as a compression stop OTOH is a no-no.
I know a lot of wheelers outside the Hundy community use limiting straps for downward travel. *I don't believe there should be any problems with the shock limiting compression if you have the right size shock.
This comment may requrire correction pending suspension testing on my rig regarding my tread, 6th posting: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/602448-venturing-into-rarefied-air-2-body-lift.html
For compression: Go take a couple air born launches and get back to me on the compression forces for upper and lower shock mounts if they are serving as the compression limit/bumps, especially the rear mounts on our 100's. You don't want the shock/shock mounts taking the considerable compression force on our rigs. Or just come look at my OEM rear upper shock mounts...they're tweaked from same (live'n and learn'n).
Dissipating the same energy via larger frame mounted bump stops is much more effective...
Dissipating the same energy via larger frame mounted bump stops is much more effective...
I am curretly running 295's on stock wheels on my wifes 98' Hundy. No problems rubbing on control arms or anything else, albeit, she hasn't off roaded with it yet. But around town, not a single rub of any kind.
I know I'll have to fix that soon when she want's to hit the trail.
All of this talk of 16's rubbing. Whats the tallest 18's someone is running without rubbing? I see 65's in the faqs thread. But is anyone going taller that isnt rubbing on stock suspension?
Toyo MT 285/70/18 is an interesting tire at 35.1. The open country's seem true to size. They weigh the same as 305/70/16 (33) +-. I acquired a set with less than 500 miles on them and they seem to be a great tire with better road manners than the KM2 although they are awfully heavy and are expensive. With the 305s I have no rubbing.
Dobie said:
I just saw you were thinking stock suspension... Sorry
Will 315/75-16 fit on a LX470 with 1.5" slee arb lift kit? My understanding is that it lifts vehicle 2+." Also I dont have fenders front and rear (bought LC like that). Will the bigger tire change ride quality? I have stock size michelin ltx and the ride is too firm.
Sure. May need a wheel spacer to clear the UCA depending on what brand you run. May have to do the pinch weld mod.
But honestly if you think your LX rides firm on the Michelins - putting a bigger, heavier, stiffer, more aggressive tread tire on there is really going to exacerbate the problem.
Larger tires = acceleration, braking, steering will all change for the worse. Is it worth it? To me it is