315/75/16 KM2 - possible w/o rubbing?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Threads
53
Messages
696
Location
Long Island, NY
I'm searching, and i can't find the tire thread where it was polling people based on 10 or so questions.

The basis of my search is ultimately to figure out whether a 315/75/16 km2 on a stock 16" rim will work on the 100 without rubbing (UCA, knuckle, etc.). If someone can answer this, then i don't need to find that poll thread. Hopefully someone can answer this for me.
 
From what I've seen on the site, anything bigger than 285/75/16 will have some rubbing issues. The 315/75/16s will rub on the UCAs during turns without spacers as well.

I could be wrong, just what I believe to have read.
 
Which of the dozens of threads was that? On a lifted truck (2.5") A 315 will rub the wheel wells front and back during articulation, during full lock when steering and depending on the tire choice may rub the UCAs. 1" to 1.5" wheel spaces can fix a lot of the issues (1.5" front and 1" rear), reconfiguring turnstops/bumpstops can fix others and a body lift can fix others. Realistically it will be some mix of the above and there are a ton of ways to skin that cat. For me, 1.5" front spacers, 1" rear spacers, deal with the rubbing and not install bump/turn stops, 1" spressofab body lift and call it a day. Now I have not done this yet so that could be turned on it's head but I'm pretty confident it will work for me. :cheers:
 
From what I"ve seen. the consensus is that 285 is the largest stock. I believe 295 will also work but anything larger than a 295 is a no go unless you modded your truck.
 
I'm searching, and i can't find the tire thread where it was polling people based on 10 or so questions.

The basis of my search is ultimately to figure out whether a 315/75/16 km2 on a stock 16" rim will work on the 100 without rubbing (UCA, knuckle, etc.). If someone can answer this, then i don't need to find that poll thread. Hopefully someone can answer this for me.

Yes you will rub the front of the fender, the rear of the fender, and the top of the fender, and a good chance the UCA.

The above is only true if you wheel it.
 
a 305/70/16 works too. it is about 2 tenths of an inch shorter than the 285/75, but almost an inch wider. and like above, there is a ton of info on this.
 
OH MAN!!! I had a feeling it would rub. I'd rather not deal with spacers. Yeah. I guess i'll rub when i wheel. Thank you mud community!
 
3D FJ said:
I'd rather not deal with spacers. Yeah. I guess i'll rub when i wheel. Thank you mud community!

I don't see the big deal. I threw mine on, tightened them up and have not looked back. There are people here who have had spacers installed for tens of thousands of miles with little or no I'll effect.

The rubbing in the UCAs is the big deal, people have destroyed tires quickly even with little to moderate off-road use. Look up TheFuzz's post about it.
 
jonharis said:
I don't see the big deal. I threw mine on, tightened them up and have not looked back. There are people here who have had spacers installed for tens of thousands of miles with little or no I'll effect.

The rubbing in the UCAs is the big deal, people have destroyed tires quickly even with little to moderate off-road use. Look up TheFuzz's post about it.

3D FJ, check your PM. I could have what you need. Thanks.....the spacers from the good vendors are bomb proof....
 
I don't see the big deal. I threw mine on, tightened them up and have not looked back. There are people here who have had spacers installed for tens of thousands of miles with little or no I'll effect.

The rubbing in the UCAs is the big deal, people have destroyed tires quickly even with little to moderate off-road use. Look up TheFuzz's post about it.

Yeah... I should clarify. In this situation, I'd rather not run spacers because of the slippery slop i'd be on. This is how i'm thinking... I buy the tires, then they'll need spacers to clear the UCA's and the knuckle (as per TheFuzz's experience), they will rub on my body, i will need spresso's body lift kit. I probably won't be happy with the way the truck rides and then i'll want to regear and while i'm at it, since i'm already in there, I'll have to add lockers.

KM2's - ~ 1600 (5)
spacers - ~300 (2 pairs)
body lift kit ~ fill it in for me
regear and lockers ~ $$$ - fill it in for me. (i''ve never look at the price but i'm assuming it's well over $1000

So if i stick to 33's, then in my mind, i'll only have to spend for the tires. I think i'll be just as happy. ;) One day in the distant future, i think this will all happen. Who knows... If i blow my diff soon, this may happen sooner.
 
Spidertrax spacers are 200 for 4.
Regearing, plus labor, your looking around $2000-2500 or more depending on shop rates and where you buy the parts from.
 
3D FJ said:
Yeah... I should clarify. In this situation, I'd rather not run spacers because of the slippery slop i'd be on. This is how i'm thinking... I buy the tires, then they'll need spacers to clear the UCA's and the knuckle (as per TheFuzz's experience), they will rub on my body, i will need spresso's body lift kit. I probably won't be happy with the way the truck rides and then i'll want to regear and while i'm at it, since i'm already in there, I'll have to add lockers.

KM2's - ~ 1600 (5)
spacers - ~300 (2 pairs)
body lift kit ~ fill it in for me
regear and lockers ~ $$$ - fill it in for me. (i''ve never look at the price but i'm assuming it's well over $1000

So if i stick to 33's, then in my mind, i'll only have to spend for the tires. I think i'll be just as happy. ;) One day in the distant future, i think this will all happen. Who knows... If i blow my diff soon, this may happen sooner.

You hit the nail on the head. I've been incredibly happy with 285s for a couple years now. 315s along with the other things you mentioned give you diminishing returns but returns that are at the same time still real returns for specific situations. It all comes down do how far down the rabbit hole you are willing to go. Honestly, many of us would have been better off buying an 80 but (at least for me) the comfort, power, towing capacity, and ability to drive thousands of miles in comfort were paramount and it's worth dumping the extra $$s into making a truck that truly showcases the best of both worlds.

$3-$5k for F/R lockers and gears depending on who does it and if you do some of the work (R&R diff housings) yourself.
 
Spidertrax finally makes spacers for the 100? Nice. Thanks for filling the missing regear/ locker price Layton. Yeah. Definitely not in my future anytime soon.
 
3D FJ said:
Spidertrax finally makes spacers for the 100? Nice. Thanks for filling the missing regear/ locker price Layton. Yeah. Definitely not in my future anytime soon.

Great products available from supporting vendors too. Slee and JustDifferentials both have quality spacers (it's what I have).
 
I have 305/70-16 Mickey Thompson Baja ATX on my 2002 LX470. Great look to those tires and no rubbing issues.
 
I have 305/70-16 Mickey Thompson Baja ATX on my 2002 LX470. Great look to those tires and no rubbing issues.

Would like to see those....as much as I want to see the Lakers take the 2013 championship!!!!!!
 
I have a 99 LX 470 with BFB AT 305/70/16 and in normal height (ahc) I get no rubbing. I know you're looking for 315's but some are saying 285 is the largest and I'm running 305's with no issues.
 
I have 315 KM2s and only rub the frame on full lock turns
 
Dobie said:
I have 315 KM2s and only rub the frame on full lock turns

315x?x?

Shane.
 
Back
Top Bottom