30mm Crankshaft Bolt Lose then crank 2nd time - Problem? (1 Viewer)

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I had my wife start the engine to loosen the crankshaft bolt per TexasknowHow's video. After the initial crank which loosened the bolt, she did another one right after it. Will this 2nd crank harm anything? I just removed the dizzy cover and see the dizzy rotor is facing down, the opposite of what's on Texasknowhow's video. Also, to mark the rotor before removal - Any pictures of where exactly to mark, inside of dizzy, back of dizzy, etc? Thanks for your help.
 
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Shouldn't be an issue. Take a sharpie to mark the relation between the cylinder head to the distributor housing, and the distributor housing to the rotor. Do not move the crank until the distributor is reinstalled.
 
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I'd suggest running the bolt back in, using it to realign the crankshaft mark to zero when the dist is pointing to #1, then loosening the bolt. It will loosen a lot easier this time, and everything will be all lined up to minimize confusion.
 
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So tighten the crankshaft bolt enough to realign the crankshaft to zero, remove the bolt by hand, everything should be aligned? Thanks

I'd suggest running the bolt back in, using it to realign the crankshaft mark to zero when the dist is pointing to #1, then loosening the bolt. It will loosen a lot easier this time, and everything will be all lined up to minimize confusion.
 
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Here's a picture of where the rotor is right now. I've got the mark inside the dizzy but the one relative to the cylinder head? Thanks


20140823_131653.jpg


Shouldn't be an issue. Take a sharpie to mark the relation between the cylinder head to the distributor housing, and the distributor housing to the rotor. Do not move the crank until the distributor is reinstalled.
 
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Re-align it per blkprj80's suggestion... less confusion like he said.

I can't see the image, but mark the distributor housing and the cylinder head where the two components mate.
 
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There is a bolt that you loosen to adjust timing.
That bolt holds a "tab". If you mark the head where that tab is, you can rotate it back to that point and be close on timing. You should still base time it for exact, but what he suggested will get it started.

The rotor will point at about 11 o'clock for #1 TDC.
 
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You need to set the #1 cylinder to TDC, your picture shows it is 180 degrees off. The reason I say this is if you know for sure its at TDC it could save you some headaches later. Also, why are you removing the distributor ?
 
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I am removing the distributor so I can replace the O-ring as it is leaking oil.

You need to set the #1 cylinder to TDC, your picture shows it is 180 degrees off. The reason I say this is if you know for sure its at TDC it could save you some headaches later. Also, why are you removing the distributor ?
 
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In that case, definitely take it to TDC and make a mark on the tip of the rotor and straight over to the distributor. This will get you on the money for the re install.
 
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So the crankshaft is lined up at 0 but now I can't remove the bolt. Is there another way of loosening the bolt w/o cranking the engine? Tried to remove it but can't keep the harmonic balancer from rotating. Apologies for the many questions but just want to make sure. Thanks

In that case, definitely take it to TDC and make a mark on the tip of the rotor and straight over to the distributor. This will get you on the money for the re install.
 
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Strap wrench to hold harmonic balancer or possibly follow the tightening instruction but use the 14mm socket through the inspection opening to hold things while you loosen the bolt, should work.
 
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Bump the wrench with a gloved hand using your palm. Or thump it with a dead blow.
It ain't nowhere near as tight as it was a few days ago.
If you had your plugs out, you would be done as turning it would have been easy.
Try not to turn the engine backwards much. Only forward.
 
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Yep, the trick is speed, if you try to rotate slowly it will move the balancer. Put your longest ratchet on there and whack it.
 

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