30A Power Window/Lock Fuse Blows w/ Ignition Off (1 Viewer)

[PNWFJ80]

So I had my car aligned today, and when I picked it up the drivers window was rolled down, when I went to roll it up I noticed there was no power going to the power windows or locks, so I traced it back to the 30A fuse that was blown. When I replaced the fuse(with the ignition off/keys out of the ignition) it instantly blew the new fuse. Since I bought two new fuses...in went the second one and it instantly blew. So $10 of fuses later I'm thinking I have a short somewhere, but it seems odd that it's blowing the fuses with the power off, right? Anyone had a similar issue?
My guess is the alignment tech test drove it around the block, rolled the window down using auto, and because the window run in the drivers door needs to be replaced he overloaded the drivers window motor or something? Still doesn't make sense why there's power going to the fuse without keys in the ignition though. I'm confused.

 

[larryrmnp]

Because power lock/unlock works with the ignition turn off it must be getting power all the time. So must be a short somewhere in that system.

 

[PNWFJ80]

Yikes, was only thinking about the windows being switched, completely overlooked the obvious that the power door locks work regardless. I'm assuming now that it's safe to narrow my search to something power door lock related?

 

[Malleus]

Look at the door relay. It handles both door and window power. If the problem isn't there, it's upstream of that, in the harness that leads into the door. The connector is in the kickpanel.

 

[PNWFJ80]

I owe you a beer! Or two! I've had it tarped off on my driveway w/the windows down all week dreading trying to track down this issue, had a few minutes today to look at it, went straight for the wiring harness you recommended looking at under the drivers kick panel...and after wiggling the wires around I at least got rid of the short long enough to roll the windows up. I haven't found the short yet, but progress is progress. REALLY REALLY appreciate the tip, many thanks man!

FZJ80 Power Window/Power Lock Wiring Harness

• PNWFJ80
• Apr 14, 2018

FZJ80 Power Window/Power Lock Wiring Harness

 

[scottryana]

Do you have a leaky windshield? That is about where they seem to dump.

 

[PNWFJ80]

Do you have a leaky windshield? That is about where they seem to dump.

It was leaking at the top of the windshield and running down the passenger A pillar, but I gobbed paste wax in the void between the windshield rubber & frame, it stopped the leak until it goes off to the body shop in June. The drivers A pillar is bone dry, no evidence of water in that area or in the kick panel area.

 

[PNWFJ80]

Found it! When you push on the driver's kick panel it would short this harness/wire on the body and blow the 30A fuse for the power windows and power door locks.

 

[KimoSabe]

Wow - getting this same problem now... will start tracking from here... thanks

 

[BeachnCruiser]

I had a similar problem on my 91 LC. After tracing and searching I narrowed the problem down the the master switch. I pulled the whole block and decided to open the whole thing up. It turned out to be the the actual door lock button. It would get stuck in the depressed state and short out. I had to open it up a pull the rocker switches. I cleaned them up and discovered that the spring was broken. The took the spring out and made a new one from a click pen. It's all back together and working fine.

 

[camobaja]

I just had the same problem. Thanks for the info. Looks like it got grounded on a sharp edge in the A pillar or something.

 

[zapatius]

Thank you to this thread! Made finding the problem quick and easy

 

[Kernal]

Interesting: what could be causing the short at that particular location, is the harness bundle pressing against an unprotected sharp edge of sheet metal near the hole in the panel??

In post #11 that photo shows what appears to be a crease/linear impression in one of the blue wires immediately adjacent to the fatter blue wire that's burned.

 

[zapatius]

Yes, I think it's a sharp edge. It just depends on how your harness is oriented as to which wire is eventually effected. I have never messed with any of the wiring in there, so I am assuming 30 years of pressing against the same edge eventually wore through it.