300M axles for your 80 series (1 Viewer)

[RFB]

So I started a thread after twisting an axles smashing a pinion gear etc. and I went with 300M from RCV well to get RCV fronts and rears is almost 2500 total. I talked with Jason down at Ozark overland outfitters. and hes going to ship them out front and rear RCV all 300M for 2100.00 flat, I have no affiliation at all. just figured Id hook it up for all the solid MUD members. all things 4x4

 

[OGBeno]

What do you hope to gain with these axles that OEM did not provide?

I’ve read through your travails. But it always seems like you are merely just throwing parts at something for no reason... as opposed to doing root cause analysis and figuring out exactly what is fundamentally causing your issues.

I get wanting the best or strongest, but most of the time you are merely pushing any issues farther down line vs. solving problems and answering discreet questions.

 

[RFB]

what I hope to do is to stop twisting axles(nitro) or destorying oem birfields(x2) thus far. throwing parts I suppose is one way to look at it, But travelling 75K a year on and off road parts wear out, so Im often repalcing them. I hope that is acceptable answer. RCV birfields and everyone Ive spoke to that have them havent failed from actual use. So that why Im installing them. And if it pushes any issues down the line, Ill deal with them as well.

 

[lipek]

RCV now makes rear full float axles for the 80's?

 

[scottryana]

Traveling 75k miles a year you better get a part time kit. When Longfield was RCV they used to say 80 birfs in full-time 4wd might only last 60k miles.

 

[nukegoat]

RCV now makes rear full float axles for the 80's?

Yes

 

[LINUS]

I can appreciate you’re piling on miles at quite a rate, and not easy highway ones.

That said, I seem to recall you mentioning you somehow profit from it all thanks to the internet of life, so $2100 gets you quite a ways into say a pair of D60’s on a pallet /delivered to your house to strip to modify/fit the 80.

Esp if you do your own spark making & welds, and running 37’s (for now) - I’d want to personally investigate that route further as it opens a ton of other options in the process.

And just a thought - at what point does that lifetime warranty cease when you’re on 40’s or some other decently oversize from what Toyota OE really was in the 31”-33” range?

Sure, I can see offering a lifetime warranty until I find a guy is on his 3rd/4th birf from me running 40’s & drives like he’s auditioning for Monster Jam (extreme example for effect) - then I’d have to have a re-negotiation with that person.

IDK, at a certain point when you upsize the tires so much I’d expect birfs to go, driveplates to strip, and twist the rear axleshafts.

Just tossing that out there as $2000 would easily get D60’s delivered on a pallet to be torn down to build axles for your way of using them.
And, as a benefit - they would take it if you decided to turbo & build a 1FZ with some boost in low double digits in mind.
Or whatever motor may catch your eye down the road, axles like these would have you better prepared for more potent TQ curves.

I hope these solve your issue & you get long enough service life to justify $$, but $2100 seems steep to keep re-inventing the same axle unless this is some 100% LC parts purist type thing.

My desire would be to start looking at the common 3/4-1T axles that have tons of mods for cheap at the point where you are, but that’s just me.

 

[Blade 80LC]

So I started a thread after twisting an axles smashing a pinion gear etc. and I went with 300M from RCV well to get RCV fronts and rears is almost 2500 total. I talked with Jason down at Ozark overland outfitters. and hes going to ship them out front and rear RCV all 300M for 2100.00 flat, I have no affiliation at all. just figured Id hook it up for all the solid MUD members. all things 4x4

Thank you for the link. (For those that do want 300M axles.)

 

[nukegoat]

I can appreciate you’re piling on miles at quite a rate, and not easy highway ones.

That said, I seem to recall you mentioning you somehow profit from it all thanks to the internet of life, so $2100 gets you quite a ways into say a pair of D60’s on a pallet /delivered to your house to strip to modify/fit the 80.

Esp if you do your own spark making & welds, and running 37’s (for now) - I’d want to personally investigate that route further as it opens a ton of other options in the process.

And just a thought - at what point does that lifetime warranty cease when you’re on 40’s or some other decently oversize from what Toyota OE really was in the 31”-33” range?

Sure, I can see offering a lifetime warranty until I find a guy is on his 3rd/4th birf from me running 40’s & drives like he’s auditioning for Monster Jam (extreme example for effect) - then I’d have to have a re-negotiation with that person.

IDK, at a certain point when you upsize the tires so much I’d expect birfs to go, driveplates to strip, and twist the rear axleshafts.

Just tossing that out there as $2000 would easily get D60’s delivered on a pallet to be torn down to build axles for your way of using them.
And, as a benefit - they would take it if you decided to turbo & build a 1FZ with some boost in low double digits in mind.
Or whatever motor may catch your eye down the road, axles like these would have you better prepared for more potent TQ curves.

I hope these solve your issue & you get long enough service life to justify $$, but $2100 seems steep to keep re-inventing the same axle unless this is some 100% LC parts purist type thing.

My desire would be to start looking at the common 3/4-1T axles that have tons of mods for cheap at the point where you are, but that’s just me.

For what it's worth, blinging out 1-tons isn't that cheap either.

Minimum requirements to compare with the axles he has:
Dana 60 front - $1200
14b rear - $400
Dual ARBs - $2000
Gearing and install kits - $1200
New wheels - $800
New driveshafts - $800

Most likely desired upgrades:
35 spline chromoly outers: $450
35 spline hubs: $300
Beefier steering u-joints: $400
New brakes, knuckle rebuilds, etc: $800
Beefier knuckles: $600
High-steer arms: $200
Bronze kingpin bushings: $200


Or just write a check for $12k and get a set built. Real talk

 

[LINUS]

@nukegoat - yeh, if anyone would know, you have the “been there, did that” -badge.

I just see your way as doing it right **mostly** once, rather than hemorrhaging $$$ after $$$ after drama/breakdowns in the Murphy’s law of all BFE places.

Hah, I wish on that ‘just cut a $12K check’ - I am willing to do a heck of a lot to local set of D60’s FS for $1200 before I move the decimal point right one spot.

But that’s just my opinion, and clearly what & where you're at & doing - anymore my 80 is just a reliable vehicle & my boat is where I need the Quik-Klot

 

[Boing]

For what it's worth, blinging out 1-tons isn't that cheap either.

Minimum requirements to compare with the axles he has:
Dana 60 front - $1200
14b rear - $400
Dual ARBs - $2000
Gearing and install kits - $1200
New wheels - $800
New driveshafts - $800

Most likely desired upgrades:
35 spline chromoly outers: $450
35 spline hubs: $300
Beefier steering u-joints: $400
New brakes, knuckle rebuilds, etc: $800
Beefier knuckles: $600
High-steer arms: $200
Bronze kingpin bushings: $200


Or just write a check for $12k and get a set built. Real talk

I completely disagree with this, we have raced on one tons for years....

Dana 60 (Low pinion) 300-1000
14 Bolt never spent more than 150
Dual ARBs 1900 (to your door) Same as a yota
gears and installs 1K (same as yota)
Plenty of 8 lug junk out there
Could reuse your driveshafts if you want or have them re tubed 300'ish (you only have a 1fz)

We raced with a small block on 37's for 3 years before stubs were upgraded (still factory inners), and yota's use drive flanges up front those are cheap...
Yukon stubs are cheap so are drive flanges...
You 100% dont need beefier knuckles until you have broken factories (hard to do) factory knuckles still on the race axle...
Brakes knuckle rebuilds are far cheaper than yota junk....
high steer arms are cheaper if you need it than high steer for fj80 fronts...
Bronze bushings are good if you are racing otherwise the plastic and delrin is fine...

your numbers are quite skewed in my opinion, every aspect of a dana60 is stronger out of the box when compared to yota stuff, cost to build both is very very close... Tons aren't for everyone, but they are a much better way to spend your money...

 

[nukegoat]

I completely disagree with this, we have raced on one tons for years....

Dana 60 (Low pinion) 300-1000
14 Bolt never spent more than 150
Dual ARBs 1900 (to your door) Same as a yota
gears and installs 1K (same as yota)
Plenty of 8 lug junk out there
Could reuse your driveshafts if you want or have them re tubed 300'ish (you only have a 1fz)

We raced with a small block on 37's for 3 years before stubs were upgraded (still factory inners), and yota's use drive flanges up front those are cheap...
Yukon stubs are cheap so are drive flanges...
You 100% dont need beefier knuckles until you have broken factories (hard to do) factory knuckles still on the race axle...
Brakes knuckle rebuilds are far cheaper than yota junk....
high steer arms are cheaper if you need it than high steer for fj80 fronts...
Bronze bushings are good if you are racing otherwise the plastic and delrin is fine...

your numbers are quite skewed in my opinion, every aspect of a dana60 is stronger out of the box when compared to yota stuff, cost to build both is very very close... Tons aren't for everyone, but they are a much better way to spend your money...

Basically you're saying you think my prices are like 10-20% too high. But other than that, how is this complete disagreement?

 

[Boing]

I guess what I am saying is the cost of building trail worthy yota axles is the same as 1 tons. The additional costs would be wheels and driveshafts...

 

[ChaseTruck]

I'd say the $12k comes into play if you wanted a built high pinion/PS pumpkin D60 front. As for axle pricing and availability, that can have a lot of regional price variation. The newer (mid 2000-ish w/ factory disk brakes) 14b tend to be a bit pricier than the older versions.

I haven't gone all the way on the axles in my K5 (I'm still on stock D60 knuckles/brakes/u-joints/inners), but the other stuff does add up. And maybe the bronze kingpin bushings are a bit much, but D60 death wobble is really not fun; the Crane PU plugs help - until the PU hardens...

 

[LINUS]

I guess what I am saying is the cost of building trail worthy yota axles is the same as 1 tons. The additional costs would be wheels and driveshafts...

So.........when the day is done & let’s just say you built either 1T of whatever flavor (D60/14B, 60/60 combo) -or Toyota axles but your bottom line budget had to be EXACTLY the same $$$ - which would you rather push 37’s or esp 40’s with as that’s getting a new normalcy here?

To me, as much as I love Toyota, I bet the Toy axles will need a part replaced sooner.
Or to avoid it you will have bought the $2100 300M parts but found the next piece that’ll go (I’m thinking you carry a 6-pack of driveplates myself).

That was my point, but I’m not bouncing the ass of my 80 off things anymore, but if I ever build a project in my garage again it’d be a wide 40 with a HP-D60 FR & 14B RR axle.
But it would be LS powered too, because they are just such a leap from old GM motors. (Rabbit-trail)

Back to point, you can make the $$ go further & do things like hi-steer arms all day long on domestic axles that sadly I’m not even sure made it to market yet for ‘Yotas (I’m not current, did those hi-steer Tundra knuckle arms happen?).

I’m a fan of Toyota- but there’s not the sheer production numbers of axles like the 1T variants of domestic axles.

 

[scottryana]

Rockwell’s are cheap

 

[nukegoat]

Anyone thinking I'm not advocating for tons, dont' get me wrong. Tons are great. @Tools R Us has a Dana sticker on his toolbox for a reason. And a Dana t-shirt.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

For what it's worth, blinging out 1-tons isn't that cheap either.

Minimum requirements to compare with the axles he has:
Dana 60 front - $1200
14b rear - $400
Dual ARBs - $2000
Gearing and install kits - $1200
New wheels - $800
New driveshafts - $800

Most likely desired upgrades:
35 spline chromoly outers: $450
35 spline hubs: $300
Beefier steering u-joints: $400
New brakes, knuckle rebuilds, etc: $800
Beefier knuckles: $600
High-steer arms: $200
Bronze kingpin bushings: $200


Or just write a check for $12k and get a set built. Real talk

I sort of agree. I have all the parts and some of the knowledge to do all of this. 1 Ton axles are the thing. They just are, and Toyota LC axles are not that. If you want to go this route there are a bunch of options, but it's hard to beat heavy duty parts made for heavy duty.

But, in the end, Toyota stuff works well. Very well. No reason to upgrade unless you are completely into it and if you are, you should build a buggy and ditch the weight and massive scale of an 80 on 40s.

 

[LINUS]

I sort of agree.

But, in the end, Toyota stuff works well. Very well.

No reason to upgrade unless you are completely into it and if you are, you should build a buggy and ditch the weight and massive scale of an 80 on 40s.

100% agree with this too for us ‘recreational’ guys (I loosely think myself that as I decided to draw my “line in the sand” at 315’s/34.5” tires).
And I did that so I didn’t just build another LX450 like my prior - I want this to stay all Yota parts & have longevity that takes me well my pension years.

But as guys push the limits, the trend to bigger & bigger tires takes its’ toll on Toyota axles - esp guys who may not pick smooth lines looking 2-3 moves ahead & hoping their plan sticks & their spotter gave good info, the 37’s & the now 40’s crowd are going to either:

A) bling the last inch out of Yota axles.

B) realize either by constant use or their inconstant driving style, see a need to move to 1T -area axles. Sometime just to leave under their own power.

Frankly, as long as they remember the day their stock 80 came to them on Michelin LTX’s in p-metric 31” tires, they won’t badmouth anything Mr T put inbetween the 2 wheels either FR or RR by the time they are on bigger & heavier rubber.

 

[Tools R Us]

... @Tools R Us has a Dana sticker on his toolbox ...

Why did you pull me onto this dick swinging contest? Please make some attempt at keeping up, the sticker is on my '80, keeps the jeep guys entertained.

Agree, if you cant keep axles together, dana has much more HD options available, common, cheaper. Disagree with swapping them onto a light Toyota? Simply buy a jeep or whatever, then will have dana axles, proper Saginaw steering, proper, powerful domestic motor, proper transfer with a selection of low gears, etc. Be on the trail much faster than doing a bunch of swapping and most shops know how to work on them.