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3000 mile 2f Overhaul Advice needed

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Gr8Pmkn, Aug 29, 2006.

  1. Gr8Pmkn

    Gr8Pmkn

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    I have a 3000 mile 2F Engine from a FJ40 (not sure of the year 75+, engine # 346712), transmission & transfer case sitting in the garage that I am in the process of tearing into. A little history on the engine, I purchased it a couple of years ago from a Chicago area CruiserHead on the LCML. The history I was given was that it had come from a FJ40 that lived its years as a plow truck at a Toyota dealership, and when the body rotted away, they sold the rest for parts. I forget if I was told the mileage read 3000 or if it was 1500 and we were figuring x 2 for forward and backwards plowing any way, it sure beats mine with a blown head gasket or worse. I was told the engine ran when it was pulled, but have not seen it run. On my part, I have also made a point of turning the engine over every 2 – 3 months which it has always done rather easily by hand with spark plugs removed..

    Here are some pictures of the engine as I took it apart that I hope confirm the engine’s history - I did not clean anything with the exception of the head which I sprayed the valves with a little carb cleaner. The valve cover from this engine is the gleaming silver one and the filthy black one is from my old engine. More are available here http://lscomputing.net/Engine/Engine.html


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    My plan is to preemptively replace gaskets and seals to be safe while everything is out of the truck. I’m sure I’m missing some, but this is what I have on my list:

    From a SOR kit (032-01E Vlv Regnd Set-8/80-8/87*Japan) that was “given” to me when I bought the engine: Head Gasket, Manifold Gasket, Valve Cover Gasket, Valve Cover Seals, and Valve Stem Seals

    I was also planning on replacing the following: Rear Main Seal, Side Cover Gasket, and the Oil Pan Gasket. I am not sure if I should also do the Timing Cover Gaskets and seals before I put it in as well.

    I was not planning on doing anything to the lower end, unless there is something that I am missing.

    For the head I am wondering if I should or need to do anything. If it is not warped with a straight edge is there any reason I need to have the head machined? If I were to get it machined how much should I have shaved or how much can I shave and still run normal octane fuel? I am planning on upgrading to headers and will be switching to an electronic ignition from an FJ60.

    For the transmission & transfer case, I am planning on replacing gaskets and seals as well.

    I am just trying to make sure I get everything ordered at one time, since no one seems to have any thing locally in the Chicago area.

    Please let me know if there is anything I am missing or something that I could do to make this project better.


    Thanks in advance.

    Lee
     
  2. rgentry

    rgentry

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    Here is a bump for you so that maybe the experts will comment.

    I would be temped to have the head cleaned at least, and maybe have the valves dressed lightly. Too bad you couldn't run a compression test and oil pressure test before tearing into it.
     
  3. 65swb45

    65swb45 Supporting Vendor

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    Sounds like a pretty sweet deal overall.

    Only thing that comes to mind [at 11pm!] is that IF you decide to pull the timing cover gasket [and I'm not saying that you should] I would replace the timing cover PLATE gasket between the plate and the block AND I would replace it with an OE gasket.

    This is the biggest PITA gasket to get to, and the one that I see leaking way too commonly on FJ60s.

    The only thing worse than doing this job, is doing it over again because you used an inferior gasket.

    Hth

    Mark A.
     
  4. Gr8Pmkn

    Gr8Pmkn

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    Rgentry - Can you clarify what you mean by dressing the valves? Also, if I get the head cleaned, should I just go ahead and get it shaved? .020, .035 ....

    Mark - It sounds like I would be wise to do the Timing Gear Gasket now while its out, and will order an OEM one today. BTW, I will be calling you before the end of the week to order headers from you. :)

    Thanks for the replies.
     
  5. Gr8Pmkn

    Gr8Pmkn

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    Parts ordered

    Just ordered all of my gaskets and seals from Cruiser Dan. Hopefully I didn't miss anything.

    I did not get anything regarding the valves or the lower end, please let me know if you think this is a mistake. If so, what should I be thinking about doing.

    Thanks.
     
  6. zebrabeefj40

    zebrabeefj40

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    I can see sending the head out to replace the valve seals and maybe a valve job. I can also see having all the parts bead blasted to remove the rust coating on everything. I would not bother to machine the face if it does not need it.

    Nick
     
  7. rgentry

    rgentry

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    Perhaps lapping the valves qualifies as a mild dressing of the valves. I believe that the valves are lapped in the heads (but the springs have to be removed). This will ensure that the valves are seating well without the expense of a full valve job (which the engine should not need). I do agree that it would be good to clean the head and combustion chambers really well. I'm just not sure how that is done.
     
  8. Gr8Pmkn

    Gr8Pmkn

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    Thanks for the info. I am going to see about getting some recomendations for a local machine shop and see about having the valves looked at as well as having the head cleaned up.
     
  9. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    Personally, I wouldn't have done anything to this engine until I had heard it run.

    Since you have it apart though, I would grind the valves and replace the seals and gaskets and button it up and try it.
     
  10. Gr8Pmkn

    Gr8Pmkn

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    Valve stem seals

    Just realized the valve stem seals are missing from the Valve Regrind set I have. So I will have to order those before I take the head in.

    Thanks again for all of the help.
     
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