3 link vs 4 link what is the difference (1 Viewer)

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Instead of going with 80 series stuff you can use trailing arms and Panhard rods from a LJ 78 Prado

3 Link or 4 Link , I would go 3 link, less moving parts and about half the fabbing work and with the LJ 78 stuff, the shock mounts in the coil .

I would keep springs on the back.


I was going to go with a HZJ 74 set-up (front coils) 3 link on my BJ 74 , until I got a few things worked out.
 
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Instead of going with 80 series stuff you can use trailing arms and Panhard rods from a LJ 78 Prado

3 Link or 4 Link , I would go 3 link, less moving parts and about half the fabbing work and with the LJ 78 stuff, the shock mounts in the coil .

I would keep springs on the back.


I was going to go with a HZJ 74 set-up (front coils) 3 link on my BJ 74 , until I got a few things worked out.


Pretty good idea, me and John had measured up the prado stuff and it would fit nicely under a 40 to little fab work.

Rob
 
interesting .. I would go ( if need to choose ) rear 4 link coils first ..

For me, I am just a simpleton, a good spring set-up on the back

4 link would be awesome though.



A LJ 78 prado has coils on all fours.
 
Does the LJ have coils in the rear or leafs?

coils .. but with radius arms .. like defenders ..

For me, I am just a simpleton, a good spring set-up on the back

I know .. but the idea to me, it's have so much flex in the rear, but more controlled front and the way to make that simple it's just keep the leaf ..

well that's if I can't make all four corners coiles .. but still will keep the front much more controlled than the rear ..
 
I thought this was worth mentionsing

But since you are asking about wheel travel and all. From my experience there is more to a front or rear suspension than just wheel travel.

Take into consideration
wheel recesion
axle wrap
braking
minimizing the lift of the nose while climbing steep ascents.
caster change and affects on steering
 
I thought this was worth mentionsing

But since you are asking about wheel travel and all. From my experience there is more to a front or rear suspension than just wheel travel.

Take into consideration
wheel recesion
axle wrap
braking
minimizing the lift of the nose while climbing steep ascents.
caster change and affects on steering

wheel recesion?
 
From a rock crawling perspective, wheel recession is when the front end of your vehicle is forced upward while your front tires are up against a rock. Example: While climbing a small hill one tire meets a ledge. Your rear tires push you forward, but your front tires don’t climb but rather the nose lifts into the air stretching your front suspension until it’s nearly maxed out, only then does the front start to climb. The likely cause of this is? The angle of your lower links is perhaps too steep in relation to the ground. As the rear tires force the front tires forward and into a rock face, the angle of the lower front links forces the front end up, worsening the angle and compounding the problem, and now you’re looking at the sky.

There are ways to combat this. 1: build your lower links closer to parallel with the ground, so that when you hit a rock face the force pushing on that link is closer to a right angle with the truck. 2: use a winch to suck the front of your vehicle down, disallowing the axle to pull away from the vehicle. Comp guys do both. 3: Reduce Anti Dive numbers

It is mostly caused by a steeply angled lower link that has high Anti Dive numbers. Its seen mostly on coilover systems and not standard coil systems because of the softer spring rates associated with the coilovers. However reducing both anti dive and link angle as well as shock tuning can fix this.
 
From a rock crawling perspective, wheel recession is when the front end of your vehicle is forced upward while your front tires are up against a rock. Example: While climbing a small hill one tire meets a ledge. Your rear tires push you forward, but your front tires don’t climb but rather the nose lifts into the air stretching your front suspension until it’s nearly maxed out, only then does the front start to climb. The likely cause of this is? The angle of your lower links is perhaps too steep in relation to the ground. As the rear tires force the front tires forward and into a rock face, the angle of the lower front links forces the front end up, worsening the angle and compounding the problem, and now you’re looking at the sky.

There are ways to combat this. 1: build your lower links closer to parallel with the ground, so that when you hit a rock face the force pushing on that link is closer to a right angle with the truck. 2: use a winch to suck the front of your vehicle down, disallowing the axle to pull away from the vehicle. Comp guys do both. 3: Reduce Anti Dive numbers

It is mostly caused by a steeply angled lower link that has high Anti Dive numbers. Its seen mostly on coilover systems and not standard coil systems because of the softer spring rates associated with the coilovers. However reducing both anti dive and link angle as well as shock tuning can fix this.


Cool..... thanks for that bit of info.

I would like to have my BJ42 that will be refurbished for my son and daughter to drive and of course I would like it to drive like a 80 without dropping the body onto the 80 chasis.

And everyone says keep it leaf sprung and enjoy, might be the best advise..:beer:

Rob
 

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