3-link crew: how are you dealing with body roll?

[nukegoat]

I just finished linking (parallel 4-link) the front of my fzj80 - I was able to retain the swaybar but the newfound freedom in the front axle also translates into much more body roll than I had with the radius arms.

Has anyone used the thicker swaybars from Whiteline or some other system for on-road handling?

 

[js93cruiser]

I have the 30mm rear whiteline sway bar, helps alot but the real way to fix it is to raise your roll center by raising your panhards at the axle side, which I'm currently doing, the whiteline hangs down quite a bit below the diff

 

[TheBigBoy]

Raising the rear slightly higher than the front changes the geometry giving slightly more under steer than factory. Which helps even more once already running a HD rear sway bar.

There is another system in the pipeline that will give everyone what they want. Bit it's still a fair way off.

 

[kidglove13]

I just finished linking (parallel 4-link) the front of my fzj80 - I was able to retain the swaybar but the newfound freedom in the front axle also translates into much more body roll than I had with the radius arms.

Has anyone used the thicker swaybars from Whiteline or some other system for on-road handling?

I had thought about a parallel 4 link along time ago.

You really need to post pics of the set up.

 

[Delancy]

Be sure to check clearance at the driveshaft if you've freed up the front.

Had to remove the front sway on mine due to competition for space in which the sway bar won, and that was with shocks affording less down travel than current are and 2" extensions on the frame.

No way it'd work now, on mine, at least.

 

[Delancy]

There is another system in the pipeline that will give everyone what they want. Bit it's still a fair way off.

How about a torsion style front bar with drive flange on DS, shaved lockout hub on PS?

The arms would have to be dissimilar to clear the path of the pitman arm and the steering may need to be limited to clear 37s and up, but only minimally.

The problem with ANY front sway bar system that wraps below the front driveshaft on a rig that is capable of articulating beyond the OE or droop travel is tremendously more than OE, is the bend on the front sway has to be increased to prevent driveshaft contact.

At least, in any testing on a lift, that's what I discovered on mine specifically, which would pail in comparison to a properly set up 3-4 link. The only way I could see it done would be returning the sway bar arm orientation to parallel with the frame, as it was in original form, which would require 4-4.5" solid block drops at the frame mounts, since increasing the link length on the OE mount allows so much twisting that it negates any benefit of the sway.

 

[nukegoat]

Raising the rear slightly higher than the front changes the geometry giving slightly more under steer than factory. Which helps even more once already running a HD rear sway bar.

There is another system in the pipeline that will give everyone what they want. Bit it's still a fair way off.

I thought about doing that (just raising the rear axle track bar mount), but I was happy with the roll center when I had the radius arms so I'm reluctant to start changing other things...

I know this is nitpicky to want to "have it all" but I really feel like an adequate front swaybar (that's disconnectable) would solve a lot of my woes.

Since that doesn't exist, I guess I should try fabbing something up.

Any idea how much torsional rotation I can apply to the factory sway bar before it yields? 45 degrees? 60 degrees?

 

[nukegoat]

I had thought about a parallel 4 link along time ago.

You really need to post pics of the set up.

Yeah, you and some others had made forum posts years ago about how you were going to do it. I will post pics once I have enough poser flex shots that everyone will inevitably ask for.

for now, just imagine a white fzj80 on a 5" lift with 345/75/16 KM2s cause that's about all it looks like

 

[kidglove13]

Yeah, you and some others had made forum posts years ago about how you were going to do it. I will post pics once I have enough poser flex shots that everyone will inevitably ask for.

for now, just imagine a white fzj80 on a 5" lift with 345/75/16 KM2s cause that's about all it looks like

Dont care about poser shots

Just want shots of the actual suspension system setup

I was told by many that a parallel 4 link was a waste of time.

Glad you actually did it.

I actually still have some of the parts from when I first started gathering them up for the project some time ago

I would like to possible revisit it.

thanks

 

[nukegoat]

Dont care about poser shots

Just want shots of the actual suspension system setup

I was told by many that a parallel 4 link was a waste of time.

Glad you actually did it.

I actually still have some of the parts from when I first started gathering them up for the project some time ago

I would like to possible revisit it.

thanks

Sure. I'll try to gather some up. It's actually not a perfectly parallel 4-link - it's closer in design to the *rear* of our cruisers in that the uppers are shorter than the lowers. Like the rear, too, it benefits from some degree of compliance in the mounts (e.g. rubber bushings.

This forum won't appreciate it, but much of the inspiration was taken from the factory suspension of the TJ wranglers, which use a very similar setup that works well.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Sure. I'll try to gather some up. It's actually not a perfectly parallel 4-link - it's closer in design to the *rear* of our cruisers in that the uppers are shorter than the lowers. Like the rear, too, it benefits from some degree of compliance in the mounts (e.g. rubber bushings.

This forum won't appreciate it, but much of the inspiration was taken from the factory suspension of the TJ wranglers, which use a very similar setup that works well.

I appreciate the effort it takes to pull off a proper parallel 4 link in the front. That's no small undertaking when you factor in proper geometry and space to work with etc.. Let's see the end product, what did you use as far as suspension ? Did you stick with coils and shocks or go coil over?

 

[ardentyota]

I have the rear away bar but none up front. Most of my body roll is taken care of by the heavily preloaded tender coils on my coilovers. This may not be any help to you if you're not running coilovers though.

I think the best bet would be a frame mounted anti-rock sway bar type system.

Good luck!

 

[half k cruiser]

This forum won't appreciate it, but much of the inspiration was taken from the factory suspension of the TJ wranglers, which use a very similar setup that works well.

I've seen my buddys wrangler do some pretty impressive stuff with the fatory setup. Regardless of whether or not people like it, Jeep got it right with there suspension setup.